RTV 900 rebuild

North Idaho Wolfman

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Would you happen to know where I can find part numbers for this engine? I looked in the shop manual and they're not in there. There's a diesel place around here that can get me the parts I just don't have the Kubota part numbers. The likely be a little bit cheaper to.

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Are you in CA as in canada or CA as california.

Because if it's California you can get the parts info right off Kubota's site. ;)

https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

But if you Canada...So no such luck unless you can find or use a Virtual IP in the usa. ;)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I ended up getting them from the dealer. How do I know what size my rod bearings are besides measuring them? There are 2 choices -20 mm -40mm

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You need to measure the crank journals, that will tell you the bearing size needed.
 

mcgoo

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Are you in CA as in canada or CA as california.



Because if it's California you can get the parts info right off Kubota's site. ;)



https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/



But if you Canada...So no such luck unless you can find or use a Virtual IP in the usa. ;)
Yeah I'm in Canada. Looks like the only way I can get the parts to a Kubota Dealership which is what I figured anyways no big deal. For what I need it's going to be about five hundred bucks. Which is better than a new engine.

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mcgoo

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You need to measure the crank journals, that will tell you the bearing size needed.
I realize after looking at the parts drawing that there's undersize bearings and then the standard size bearing. So unless someone's mess with the crank it should be the standard size

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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
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mcgoo

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So everything is back together now. Set the lash on the valves. Just waiting on the fuel injectors and the fuel pump to get serviced. They will be back Monday afternoon. When I pulled the old rings off they broke. Not sure if that's a common occurrence? Anyway I should have it fired up Monday. Thanks everyone for the advice. I will keep you posted on how it goes

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mcgoo

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Got the rebuilt injectors and pump back in today and started it up. Runs smoothly when cold. Still have the blue smoke (smells like diesel) when rev it up. Any thoughts?

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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
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Got the rebuilt injectors and pump back in today and started it up. Runs smoothly when cold. Still have the blue smoke (smells like diesel) when rev it up. Any thoughts?

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It could be the spark arrester in the muffler. you can remove the tailpipe and clean it.
 

mcgoo

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Could the pump timing give me this problem? I looked at the factory specs and it's says it's supposed to be about .030 to .036 of an inch I'm getting .025 of an inch when I measure the two shims.

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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Could the pump timing give me this problem? I looked at the factory specs and it's says it's supposed to be about .030 to .036 of an inch I'm getting .025 of an inch when I measure the two shims.

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Thicker shims would make the timing later. later timing is more likely to smoke and run rough at high RPM. To be sure you would have to check "spill" timing.
 

mcgoo

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Thicker shims would make the timing later. later timing is more likely to smoke and run rough at high RPM. To be sure you would have to check "spill" timing.
Were is that timing wheel window? The manual shows it with the flywheel and the engine out.

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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Were is that timing wheel window? The manual shows it with the flywheel and the engine out.

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You will have to attach a degree wheel on the front pulley. The factory marks are on the flywheel and cannot be seen with the engine in place.
 

mcgoo

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Ok getting closer to solving my issue. I took the exhaust off and narrowed it down to the number 3 cylinder. It's the one on the fan side. I took the head off again and measured my valve recession. All are within factory spec .003 .004 except for my intake valve on the cylinder that's giving me a hard time. It's still within factory spec but it right at the limit or .010. The other thing I checked was the top clearance. 1 & 2 are in spec (.030) 3 is the only one recessed and with the head gasket it would add up to .078. How is this possible? I when I replaced the journals I use the same on all 3. Thinking back now when I measured it before I took it apart it was the same. How do I fix it?

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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Ok getting closer to solving my issue. I took the exhaust off and narrowed it down to the number 3 cylinder. It's the one on the fan side. I took the head off again and measured my valve recession. All are within factory spec .003 .004 except for my intake valve on the cylinder that's giving me a hard time. It's still within factory spec but it right at the limit or .010. The other thing I checked was the top clearance. 1 & 2 are in spec (.030) 3 is the only one recessed and with the head gasket it would add up to .078. How is this possible? I when I replaced the journals I use the same on all 3. Thinking back now when I measured it before I took it apart it was the same. How do I fix it?

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Away back in one of my first posts in this thread I told you to check piston protrusion. Anytime you have to replace a cylinder head on one of these engines there is a good chance that you have a bent connecting rod. This happens because coolant leaks into the combustion chamber and when you go to start it the coolant can't compress so it bends the rod. You will have to replace that connecting rod. (this happens when these vehicles get rolled on their side and oil floods the intake manifold as well!) if you ever roll one make sure you remove the glow plugs and clear out the oil from the cylinders before you try to start it!
 
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mcgoo

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Away back in one of my first posts in this thread I told you to check piston protrusion. Anytime you have to replace a cylinder head on one of these engines there is a good chance that you have a bent connecting rod. This happens because coolant leaks into the combustion chamber and when you go to start it the coolant can't compress so it bends the rod. You will have to replace that connecting rod. (this happens when these vehicles get rolled on their side and oil floods the intake manifold as well!) if you ever roll one make sure you remove the glow plugs and clear out the oil from the cylinders before you try to start it!
You did in fact tell me I measured noticed the difference and did nothing about it! That will teach me. Firist engine I have ever rebuilt... I have the tools just no experience. One other note for you with regards to the timing. There is a window to the flywheel on the intake side with a plastic cover that you pry out.


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eserv

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BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
You did in fact tell me I measured noticed the difference and did nothing about it! That will teach me. Firist engine I have ever rebuilt... I have the tools just no experience. One other note for you with regards to the timing. There is a window to the flywheel on the intake side with a plastic cover that you pry out.


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Glad to see there is a timing window! I couldn't remember whether there was one or not! I don't think nI ever checked timing on a RTV.
 

mcgoo

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Thanks too everyone that helped! It's amazing what good compression does. On to the next project.


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D2Cat

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It's not necessarily good compression that causes it, but having something in there that won't compress, and so the weakest part gives up!
 

Russell King

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I think he means good compression = got it running well???

But there is definitely a lack of precise information in that post but at least he posted a result.


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mcgoo

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I think he means good compression = got it running well???

But there is definitely a lack of precise information in that post but at least he posted a result.


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Read back. It's all there!

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