Hi fellows- I have a question for you- My 1990? B7100 did not come with an RPM gauge. Has anyone ever added one to their tractor? If so,, how and where did you install it? I would love to have the 2in, dial kind..thax
RPM gauge install on B7100 HST
- Thread starter Bill hopkins
- Start date
I think something like this would work and be fairly simple install.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
simple... IF... the B7100 alternator has the 'pulse output' signal.
I have no idea if it does but did it have a tach from factory ? If not, then odds are the alternator doesn't have the 'tach out option'
I just downloaded the WSM, clearly shows NO tach output (it's a Dynamo 'alternator' ), just 2 wires to rect/reg module.
Now you could add a diode,resistor and zener to one of those wires and make the signal.....
I have no idea if it does but did it have a tach from factory ? If not, then odds are the alternator doesn't have the 'tach out option'
I just downloaded the WSM, clearly shows NO tach output (it's a Dynamo 'alternator' ), just 2 wires to rect/reg module.
Now you could add a diode,resistor and zener to one of those wires and make the signal.....
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That would be great-If only I knew what your talking about.haha-Your correct-as stated it didn't come with one, and does have the Dynamo.I saw one with a type of pickup that you strap to the alternator. Recon I could strap it around the base of Dyno.(that part don't turn) and it would work?
People have recommended Tiny Tach but, I have seen the product has internal battery that goes dead pretty fast making the TT useless once it's DOA. I was actually going to buy one but that has put me off a bit on it. Gonna watch this thread as I would really like a tach on mine as well
There's one on eBay with an inductive pickup, you'd need to mount the pickup to see the flywheel, or maybe a notch on the crank pulley.
Sorry, couldn't insert picture. Google 'diesel tachometer'.
Sorry, couldn't insert picture. Google 'diesel tachometer'.
I have a Tiny Tach installed on my BX and another on my Yanmar genset, and no it doesn't have an internal battery, it runs off 12 volts. The unit has three wires, 12V power, negative or ground and a lead that goes to the pickup that clamps on the injector line which also has a ground lug.
I 3D printed and enclosure for the one on my BX and attached it to the top of the dash.
While they aren't cheap at about $100, they work very well.
for $1 - YouTubeI stand corrected.
Edit: Only for the gas engine version has the internal battery.
The diesel version has no internal battery.
Edit: Only for the gas engine version has the internal battery.
The diesel version has no internal battery.
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GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Just came from the tinytach website, and it seems the GAS versions are still nonreplacable battery powered ! Same as they were years ago. Only the DIESEL version runs on 12V tractor battery.
Interesting...
Interesting...
OK, than the info I found relates only to the gas version of the TT? If so than I may pull the trigger on one. Since it's also a timer, service interval device, hour meter and so on as well as a tach, I may get one, mod the control panel on my 2160 and use the TT in place of the hour meter
It makes sense the gas version is battery powered since it works by sensing the HV in a spark plug lead and having a fully isolated power source in the tach avoids potential problems and vehicle damage that could result from installation mistakes. Since the diesel version doesn't have that same high voltage exposure the designer didn't have to worry about isolation.
Rodger
Rodger
Ok fellows-- I really wanted a tach/ hr.meter combo that will fit in my dash, not a "tiny tach". The biggest question here is where can I install the sensor/pickup at? I have a B7100HST-I have looked all over this boy and have yet to find it. I just know,someone has run across this problem before. I did find a gent's post from 2012, but don't think he's around anymore. So put on your thinking caps- and give me your thoughts. Thax
Here's the one I tried to post in post #6
There are a bunch of other different size, range and style on eBay. You'll need to make sure there's enough room behind your dash for it.
You have to make sure the one you choose will accomodate the pulses/rev of your input. I thought this one said 1-300 which should work off the flywheel gear, but I don't see it now.
I guess you're other option is to do an alternator install, which wouldn't be a bad upgrade.
I searched on here using 'tachometer' and started at the beginning. I didn't go through it all, but gleaned a little. Maybe, a tach was installed/optional on some 6100/7100's (with alternator?) Apparently, some engines came with a flywheel sensor near the starter, so you could look there for an opening or a boss. Seems you could mount it on the timing access cover. The tach you chose would have to be able to divide by 100 or so.
You could also search using 'tach site:www.orangetractortalks.com' in your browser search to find more old posts.
You could also search using 'tach site:www.orangetractortalks.com' in your browser search to find more old posts.
I would love to be able to use that one- tro.is I have found no where to mount sensor? Being a HST, I can't access the flywheel without pulling eng. that I can see. The only place I could mount one is on back of the dymo.but it's only 1/2"wide-too narrow I'm thinking. Am I overlooking maybe an inspection bung somewhere on flywheel?
Bearing in mind I've never seen a B7100,
1. There should be a timing port covered by a plug 170 that might get you access to the starter gear teeth
2. The nose of your crankshaft may be splined
3. Maybe put a notch or tooth on the crank pulley. I'm not sure what the sensor will detect.
4. Dynamo - if you have the high capacity, maybe detect the cooling fins. (if you have the high capacity, I'm not sure you couldn't detect the output pulses, though)
5. If you have the original dynamo, maybe tap a couple of steel screws into the pulley to make teeth that the sensor would detect. If that pulley's aluminum, I wonder if it might react to the internal magnets going by?
This style of sensor is used with and mounted close to a strong magnet you supply with the magnet attached to the rotating member. A small rare earth magnet would be the best choice because you want a very strong magnetic field from as compact a device as reasonable.
The sensor outputs a sine wave to the tach, one sensor lead attaches to ground and the other goes to the tach. The sensor and rotating magnet act like a small generator whose waveform is used by the tack to indicate RPM. These are simpler and less expensive than Hall Effect sensors and are fine for simple rotational speed measurement.
For these types of devices to work reliably, it must be adjusted so the nose of the sensor is very close to the magnet so you want it to be mounted solidly and if the rotating part is mounted using isolation mounts then the sensor must be also (for example if used with an engine with rubber style mounts then the sensor must also be mounted to the engine so it will move with it).
In most cases, the included wires for the sensor won't be long enough and must be extended. Either buy an accessory extension harness from the manufacturer or if you make your own then twist the wires to reduce the chance of your tach signal cross coupling to another circuit and creating false and erratic readings. For the same reason, don't run the tach sensor wiring parallel and close to existing wiring unless it is only for a short distance.
Rodger
The sensor outputs a sine wave to the tach, one sensor lead attaches to ground and the other goes to the tach. The sensor and rotating magnet act like a small generator whose waveform is used by the tack to indicate RPM. These are simpler and less expensive than Hall Effect sensors and are fine for simple rotational speed measurement.
For these types of devices to work reliably, it must be adjusted so the nose of the sensor is very close to the magnet so you want it to be mounted solidly and if the rotating part is mounted using isolation mounts then the sensor must be also (for example if used with an engine with rubber style mounts then the sensor must also be mounted to the engine so it will move with it).
In most cases, the included wires for the sensor won't be long enough and must be extended. Either buy an accessory extension harness from the manufacturer or if you make your own then twist the wires to reduce the chance of your tach signal cross coupling to another circuit and creating false and erratic readings. For the same reason, don't run the tach sensor wiring parallel and close to existing wiring unless it is only for a short distance.
Rodger