Rotella T6 15w-40

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Bulldog, I don't believe there is a big difference between brands in real world use, as long as they have the SAE & API ratings. However, I do believe you did witness something. Real reason would probably surprise both of us! Have you tried to turn the issue back on; change to T6 again? Jeff
I agree there's not much difference in most oils. Some are good and some not so much. A select few are very good and in most cases you get what you pay for.
I'm not a rotella fan so I'll probably never use it again unless I was in a bind and couldn't find what I normally run. I just don't see using T6 if my mpg goes down and I have the potential of engine problems.

It's not so much that I think T6 is a bad oil but I know there's better out there.
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
554
83
USA
Well, I have to ask,, what is stiction???
Stiction is a condition that the Hydraulically actuated Unit Injectors in Ford diesel engines (Navistar) have. What happens is, oil cokes up in the spool valve that actuates the injector pintle and it causes rough idle, hard starting and reduced mileage. I use Nano-Borate additive to clean the coked oil and restore the proper injector actuation. Nano Borate scrubs the coked up oil off. I also cleans the high speed bearings on the hot side of the turbo.

I use it in my turbocharged Kubota's as well.

Any engine with hydrauiically actuated injectors can get spool valve stiction.

There are a few specific products on the market but all contain some kind of cleaner that is compatible with engine oil.
 

JeffL

Member

Equipment
B7200E, B4200DT
Jan 8, 2016
344
6
18
North Central Ar.
I think we all have an oil story or two, some good and bad. I think T6 is an excellent oil, I just don't use it at the moment. I am more spec loyal than brand. I will only use oil that meets the specifications of the engine manufacture. Must meet viscosity and API rating and manufacture spec if they call one out. Unfortunately, this is becoming more common in diesel and gas engines with complex turbo & emission systems.
Presently I use mostly Mobile 1 oils because they make the oils in the viscosity and ratings I need. I don't think Mobile makes the best oil, just the best for my engine's requirements. Also, I am a firm believer you do not select an oil based on what base stock is used. The best base stock can not overcome the potential problems of an additive package that does not meet your engines needs. With that said if I had three oil choices all meeting the engine's requirements; a dino, a legal synthetic, and the third with latest and greatest synthetic base stock. I would probably use the third unless I could not afford or could not buy with reasonable effort. Jeff
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
554
83
USA
I still maintain (and always will) the best yardstick for lubricant performance in any use be it crankcase or gearbox or automatic transmission is an oil analysis done by an accredited lab and reading the results including the TBN number (which is the indicator of the lubricant's longevity in a particular application.

I do that all the time and I use Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne, Indiana but there are others s well. Blackstone makes it very convenient with prepaid sample bottles which, for me increases the convenience.

With regular oil analysis it's easy to tell if your mechanical components are going to experience a failure before they fail by the amount of contaminates in the drain lubricant. With me at least it's nice to know if I have an impending failure before it becomes a major issue as well as how the lubricant is performing in a particular application.

I read on here all the time about engine failures from blown head gaskets, pump failures and assorted maladies, all are preventable and can be diagnosed early on with a lubricant analysis before it gets expensive.

Jut like going to the doctor for a yearly physical. You see if your motor is performing up to snuff and if you have impending issues too.

In all my years, I've never had a lubrication failure or mechanical failure directly attributable to the lubricant.

No mechanical device lasts forever, everything wears out eventually but knowing ahead of time of a pending failure allows you to be pro-active with the repair.

Kind of like firearms. Without a bore scope to look in a barrel, you have no idea of the condition of it and in a firearm, the barrel receives the most wear and abuse.
 

ItBmine

Well-known member

Equipment
B2620, RTV-X1100C
Jan 21, 2014
1,375
378
83
Canada
I still maintain (and always will) the best yardstick for lubricant performance in any use be it crankcase or gearbox or automatic transmission is an oil analysis done by an accredited lab and reading the results including the TBN number (which is the indicator of the lubricant's longevity in a particular application.

I do that all the time and I use Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne, Indiana but there are others s well. Blackstone makes it very convenient with prepaid sample bottles which, for me increases the convenience.

With regular oil analysis it's easy to tell if your mechanical components are going to experience a failure before they fail by the amount of contaminates in the drain lubricant. With me at least it's nice to know if I have an impending failure before it becomes a major issue as well as how the lubricant is performing in a particular application.

I read on here all the time about engine failures from blown head gaskets, pump failures and assorted maladies, all are preventable and can be diagnosed early on with a lubricant analysis before it gets expensive.

Jut like going to the doctor for a yearly physical. You see if your motor is performing up to snuff and if you have impending issues too.

In all my years, I've never had a lubrication failure or mechanical failure directly attributable to the lubricant.

No mechanical device lasts forever, everything wears out eventually but knowing ahead of time of a pending failure allows you to be pro-active with the repair.

Kind of like firearms. Without a bore scope to look in a barrel, you have no idea of the condition of it and in a firearm, the barrel receives the most wear and abuse.
Exactly. Blackstone or any other. I just use Caterpillar's SOS program because we have a big Cat house here (Toromont) and they treat me well.

Analysis also helped me decide which engine oil to use in my 1955 Allis Chalmers. I found Petro Canada Duron had higher zinc levels than Rotella which is what those old motors need. Kept me from needing an additive package.
 

comforthill

Member

Equipment
B2620,back blade,mower,tiller,loader,middlebuster,landscape rake
Oct 14, 2018
51
2
8
Lewiston
Just my 2 cents worth as a new Kubota owner. We bought our B2620 from a relative in North Carolina. When we got it it had just been serviced all new oils, Kubota fluids, Kubota filters etc.. It has Rotella T 15W 40 oil in it. I called a local dealer and he suggested because we are in Northern Michigan we go to 30 weight oil. There is only about 60 hours since service. We keep it in a heated garage here. It sat outside down there all it's previous life. When I service the tractor I think I will stay with the Rotella T 15W40. I have used this in my 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax since it was new. Thanks for the thread I will follow it.
 

JG4660

Member
Apr 22, 2019
47
0
6
Buffalo
Comforthill you should be fine with it being stored in a heated garage. Mine will be in my unheated shop that will routinely get into the single digits so i went with the synthetic T6 5w-40. For price, availability and all the good oil analysis from the various labs you can't go wrong with Rotella.

JG