I have a 4 ft. mower for a Kubota B7410 tractor. I do not have an owners manual nor do I know the manufacturer. I am not sure how to remove blades, but at this time I am wondering whether the blades need to be tightened up. The 2 blades are fastened to a heavy "flywheel" disc which is bolted to a shaft below the gearbox. The bolts holding the blades have a smooth round head on the lower side and a nut above the "flywheel" disc. Any tips on tightening and/or removal would be helpful.
Rotary mower blade maintenance
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If they've never been taken loose you may have to cut them off. The bolts are typically universal and replacements should be available at your local farm store. If you don't have a socket large enough to fit the nut go ahead and get one. You'll probably need a short extension also.
This is what the bolts look like:http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/terrain-king-blade-bolt-kit-02782900bk?cm_vc=-10005
There is a shoulder on the bolt that the blade sits on and keeps the bolt head from tightening on the blade so that the blade can swing if you hit something hard. Could this be the reason you think they need tightening? If the nut were loose I doubt you could use if for very long before the nut came off, unless the threads are messed up.
This is what the bolts look like:http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/terrain-king-blade-bolt-kit-02782900bk?cm_vc=-10005
There is a shoulder on the bolt that the blade sits on and keeps the bolt head from tightening on the blade so that the blade can swing if you hit something hard. Could this be the reason you think they need tightening? If the nut were loose I doubt you could use if for very long before the nut came off, unless the threads are messed up.
85Hokie
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You will find that after attempting to take those @#$#@$# bolts/nuts off, and never quite getting there, it is easier to back the machine over a small hillside, chock the wheels and then raise the rear end up, climb under and grind, you are not trying for a razors edge - just a "fair" clean edge. I had the same problem many years ago, even with liquid wrench and a huge socket and 6 foot cheater bar - I still walked the tractor forward while in gear!!!
A four inch grinder works perfectly!
While I generally agree with what Hokie says, If the blades are really wore down, you may eventually have to replace them. To do that, generally the easiest way, is to cut the bolts out. Sometimes the stump jumper is wore out at the pin keys, and that has to be replaced, too. Some of the 4' bush hogs don't have an access hole, in the deck, cause it would be too close to the gearbox, affecting the strength of the GB mount. Post some pics, and others will chime in.
Every time I buy a new (to me) hog, I like to take the blades and the SJ off, and never seize all the bolts, so I can take the blades or SJ off, should the need arise. I also like to weigh the blades, when I sharpen them, to keep everything in balance...
Why not just buy a Woods cutter. They use a key hole plate to retain the blade pin in a grove. So no sucking the blade bolt into the T-bar.
http://www.woodsequipment.com/files/Products/Manuals/MAN0632.pdf
Scroll down to figure 13
Pat
http://www.woodsequipment.com/files/Products/Manuals/MAN0632.pdf
Scroll down to figure 13
Pat