Replacing Rubber steering ball joint grease cups..? See pics.

[Drifthopper]

My tractor is 70 miles away at our camp, so I just want to make sure I bring the right tools.

See pictures.

I got my new replacement rubber grease boots for the front steering ball joints, I plan on working on my tractor this weekend up at our camp, and as simple as I think this is, I just want to be sure.

So.... Take the cotter pin out, loosen the nut, drop the ball joint out of the steel steering plate, take old torn grease boot off, put on new grease boot, reinstall ball joint, tighten nut, re-insert cotter pin.

Simple Job..right.

Please let me know if I am missing something.

I don't want to get up to camp and not have the correct tools to finish the task.

 

[kubotafreak]

Hardest part depends on how easy they separate. Tapered ball joints, and the gorilla that tightened the castle nut. Tapered fitments do not need much torque past component interface. Also, I would not advise placing your body under that jack arrangement. You have blocked up a rotating element. They could potentially rotate, and push out your cribbing. The axle tube itself, or the loader supports would work. Or better yet leave the wheels on.

 

[Dave_eng]

My tractor is 70 miles away at our camp, so I just want to make sure I bring the right tools.

See pictures.

I got my new replacement rubber grease boots for the front steering ball joints, I plan on working on my tractor this weekend up at our camp, and as simple as I think this is, I just want to be sure.

So.... Take the cotter pin out, loosen the nut, drop the ball joint out of the steel steering plate, take old torn grease boot off, put on new grease boot, reinstall ball joint, tighten nut, re-insert cotter pin.

Simple Job..right.

Please let me know if I am missing something.

I don't want to get up to camp and not have the correct tools to finish the task.

You need to be prepared for a fight getting the tapered fit to release.
The proper tool needs room above the stud to work which I dont think you have.
A pickle fork bar is what you need because you do not care that it damages the rubber boot.
pickle fork
Dave

 

[DustyRusty]

See if you can borrow the front suspension tool kit from Advance Auto. It should have all the tools that you need. They take a deposit equal to the cost of the kit and when you return it, they refund your money. Depending on the state, sometimes you get the sales tax back and others you don't. Make sure to have cutting pliers, spare cotter pins, hammers, and both Metric and SAE wrenches. You will also need a grease gun to lube everything. If tightened with a safety wire tool that is found in aviation work.

 

[Russell King]

There is some clip that holds the rubber cover to the joint. I think it is probably a small diameter wire that is three or four wraps. I have never seen the proper way to remove or install them but they are generally a pain to get removed and installed. I have damaged that type of clip getting them off so suggest you get new ones. You will need some sort of tool to get them off and then on. I use a pick or pointed blade that is not sharp.

You might want a long brass drift pin or rod to use to drive (hammer on) the ball joint out IF there is any way to get to the top side of the ball joint.

 

[Shadetree605]

i'm surprised you are even able to just replace the rubber boots ?. most tie rod ends have you replace the whole tie rod end as one part, not replace just the rubber boot that is on it ?!. as for getting it off ?, as said ^^, a pickle fork ( this is what old school mechanics call them ) would be handy to have on hand. you will also need some carter pins to put back in once you get the castle nut back on. a good size hammer deff will be needed. some shop rags, good set of metric and standard sockets and wrenches. if you plan on changing fluids and such ?, a good drain pan will be needed. don't forget the hydro oil, engine oil, air filter, check the fan blade ! ( replace if needed ). a good cordless impact tool will save you lots of time !. i can't thank my dewalt 20v , 1/2 impact enough when i am away from home, and no air !..lol.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

FWIW I'd like to see the hollow cinder blocks replaced with solid wood, safety first ! They will NOT support weight,easily get vertical hairline cracks and then poof, someone gets pinned under the tractor in the blink of an eye.

yes, pickle fork is the tool to use. Be SURE 100% of the cotter pin comes out and you CAN see through the hole it was it....

 

[ferguson]

Never heard it called a pickle fork / Tie rod end fork & there is a large & small / My old ones marked car / truck / You might be able to borrow one from your local auto parts store as they loan out torque wrneches and such

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I believe 'pickle' fork name as it has 2 prongs on it
trident has 3
fork has 4

 

[Drifthopper]

Thanks guys..!

I have a "pickle fork" .... ball joist separator. I'll bring it this weekend.

kfreak, GreenJay.... over the winter, i bought new front tires, you can see em off to the side in that one pick. i had the front of the tractor on blocks just to take the tires off, swap old for new, and then i put them back on.
And... I know what you mean, i didn't get under there when it was on the blocks.

Also... I have my bucket off. had to get that welded up.
Tires are on and on the ground, got plenty of room in the front to work on it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

always better to be safe than have wife collect insurance.....

 

[Drifthopper]

Bringing this one back to the top..... Job complete..... kind'a.

Replaced the rubber grease cups this past Sunday. Ordered new cups off of E bay. Like... $12 each.

Last time that i was up at camp , i wire brushed and cleaned the castle nuts, and sprayed them real good with PB Blaster. Got there this past Friday night, sprayed them again.

Sunday morning, started on it. In pic #1992, i started with the left one, the torn one.
I was able to turn the wheel and get the crank arm so that the nut better accessible, and not totally under the front plate.
Took the cotter pin out, and surprisingly the nut came off pretty easy.
I brought a pickle fork with me, used that to knock out the ball joint. Only took a couple light taps, it dropped right out.
with the arm dropped down, took the old rubber cup off, cleaned up the ball, slipped the new rubber cup on to the stud, loaded it all up with new grease, worked the rubber cup around onto the ball joint to fit into the groove, put the ball joint back up thru the crank arm, tightened up the nut, and a new cotter pin.

I'm thinking,.... well... that went ok.

So i started on the right one.
Cotter pin out, nut off, slid the pickle fork in, couple hits with the hammer, not moving.
Take the pickle fork out, ... i'm like..... Hmmmmm...
Put it back in place, several strong hits later, it popped it out, the arm dropped down.

Here's where the "kind'a " comes in ....

So, i'm repeating with i did on the left side, go to stick the right ball joint back up in the crack arm, and i see my fresh grease weeping out of the left side cup.

I was like ..... Sh !t .

When using the pickle fork on the right side, it just must have pinched the new rubber boot on the left.

It's not bad, not torn.... but the fork must have just put a pin hole to let a bit of grease squeeze out.
After bring po'ed for a bit.... i was like .. the heck with it..... its underneath the frame, out of the mud / weather, so just keep an eye on it.

I would'a taken a pic, but my hands were full of grease.

 

[Vlach7]

I believe I got the cheap ones from Amazon which they stated for my L47, but they were not, way to small. Make sure you check the measurements. Other then that, easy to do, just need to get your toe-in measurements correct when your done.

 

[Tornado Bones]

Bringing this one back to the top..... Job complete..... kind'a.

Replaced the rubber grease cups this past Sunday. Ordered new cups off of E bay. Like... $12 each.

Last time that i was up at camp , i wire brushed and cleaned the castle nuts, and sprayed them real good with PB Blaster. Got there this past Friday night, sprayed them again.

Sunday morning, started on it. In pic #1992, i started with the left one, the torn one.
I was able to turn the wheel and get the crank arm so that the nut better accessible, and not totally under the front plate.
Took the cotter pin out, and surprisingly the nut came off pretty easy.
I brought a pickle fork with me, used that to knock out the ball joint. Only took a couple light taps, it dropped right out.
with the arm dropped down, took the old rubber cup off, cleaned up the ball, slipped the new rubber cup on to the stud, loaded it all up with new grease, worked the rubber cup around onto the ball joint to fit into the groove, put the ball joint back up thru the crank arm, tightened up the nut, and a new cotter pin.

I'm thinking,.... well... that went ok.

So i started on the right one.
Cotter pin out, nut off, slid the pickle fork in, couple hits with the hammer, not moving.
Take the pickle fork out, ... i'm like..... Hmmmmm...
Put it back in place, several strong hits later, it popped it out, the arm dropped down.

Here's where the "kind'a " comes in ....

So, i'm repeating with i did on the left side, go to stick the right ball joint back up in the crack arm, and i see my fresh grease weeping out of the left side cup.

I was like ..... Sh !t .

When using the pickle fork on the right side, it just must have pinched the new rubber boot on the left.

It's not bad, not torn.... but the fork must have just put a pin hole to let a bit of grease squeeze out.
After bring po'ed for a bit.... i was like .. the heck with it..... its underneath the frame, out of the mud / weather, so just keep an eye on it.

I would'a taken a pic, but my hands were full of grease.

Pickle forks work great but in my experience they are best when you plan to scrap the old ball joint because of how likely they will damage the dust boot. First spray the joint with KROIL. Get some sleep. Next day, use a brass bar or drift with a mallot to tap the ball joint up out of the steering nuckle. Done. The other way to access the tie rod boot is to use two thin wrenches (22mm and 32mm, I think). Again, Kroil is your friend. Use the flats on the tie rod joint and the rod coming from the tie rod to loosen and unscrew that joint. Some tie rods only have wrenching flats on one side of the rod, so you may need a helper to hold it from the other end. The ball joint will spin in its ball seat as you turn the tie rod end until it's fully unscrewed. use match marks and COUNT THE TURNS so you get the toe in adjustment right on reassembly. Then turn the steering so the wheels are toed out, to make enough clearance to install the replacement boot. Be careful not to bump the tie rod stub to change its position or it will be trickier to start the threads when you go to screw it back onto the steering rod. If it moves freely, you need a new tie rod end anyway because the ball/joint are worn or damaged. Use a little blue loctite when screwing the steering rod back into the tie rod end. Done.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I am going to be the dissenting opinion here.

I have done literally "thousands" of ball joints and tie rod ends.

I have only used a "pickle fork" once ....ever......and I do not suggest you use one.

Just use a BFH to "hit that SOB as hard as you can" on the knuckle.

It will drop out just that easy.

(just don't miss....that BFH will do serious damage to fingers/knuckles and such)

If you use that "pickle fork" be sure to have a spare end, cause your gonna need it.

Today I am working on a "clapped out" trailblazer and I just dropped the ball joints, and both tie rod ends and i do not own a "Pickle fork".

Here is my BFH.

Here is the ball joint I just dropped.


Note: No damage to the boot or joint.

 

[Tornado Bones]

We are in agreement, my brother. The balls on my current Kubota have a turned down thread at the ends. The threads are machined off and the end of the bolt is narrowed so it won't mushroom out and damage the threads when using the BFH. There's a certain satisfaction when separating a rusty ball. Thx for picture. That said, it isn't necessary to separate the balljoint on the B or BX tractors to replace the inner tie rod boot. Just unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod itself and toe the wheels out. If replacing the ball joint itself, we like our BFH.