Hello; I need some advise please. I need to replace a hydraulic fitting (both ends). I have ordered the parts from Messicks (great people to work with). I spoke to them concerning the proper part(s) to order. They have arrived and I'm about ready to take the old pieces off of the FEL & tractor (B3000) and replace with the new ones. Is there anything I should be aware of? It looks pretty straight forward, just unscrew each piece and replace with the new ones. Any help, or comments are welcome.
Replacing hydraulic fittings
- Thread starter garyiden
- Start date
Pick up some Permatex thread sealant or any thread compound that does not contain Teflon. Rectoseal #5 works well too but not as good as Permatex (Permatex can also be called tough grip, it's mainly a thick black compound found in any plumbing supply stores or even Home Depot). Very few thread compounds work well with oil (I call it pipe dope), there are others but some will never let you get it apart again. Clean the male and female ends with a q tip and some paint thinner or acetone to get the oil off of the threads. Apply a thin coat of thread compound to the male threads only and brush a little on the end that will seat in the female fitting, don't glob it on just a thin coat. Tighten it up and let it sit for 24 hrs to let the Permatex set up. Don't use Teflon tape, it can get in the oil and cause havoc on your pump, same thing goes for the compound, if you use too much it can get into the oil lines.
If anyone ever comes across a fitting that you can't get to stop leaking and never want to take it apart again, Pick up a can of Expando. It comes in a small paint can in powder form. Mix a small amount of power with water to get a heavy thick paint consistency. Clean everything with paint thinner like I stated above to remove any oil from the threads. Work fast because it starts to set up really quick, let it setup for 24 hrs before putting pressure to it. You can speed up the chemical reaction by heating it with a torch but I don't recommend that. It will dry rock hard and it actually expands to fill any voids. Works great on anything but you'll never get it apart again, unless you beat it with a hammer and loosen the fitting at the same time. Also found in any plumbing supply store or online.
If anyone ever comes across a fitting that you can't get to stop leaking and never want to take it apart again, Pick up a can of Expando. It comes in a small paint can in powder form. Mix a small amount of power with water to get a heavy thick paint consistency. Clean everything with paint thinner like I stated above to remove any oil from the threads. Work fast because it starts to set up really quick, let it setup for 24 hrs before putting pressure to it. You can speed up the chemical reaction by heating it with a torch but I don't recommend that. It will dry rock hard and it actually expands to fill any voids. Works great on anything but you'll never get it apart again, unless you beat it with a hammer and loosen the fitting at the same time. Also found in any plumbing supply store or online.
OldeEnglish, thank you so much for the information. One other thing, I'm not sure if you can see it clearly in the attached photo, but there appears to be a plastic insert in the threaded end of the coupling. Question: Does this need to be removed, OR do I screw this onto the hose as is? Thanks again.
Attachments
For future reference, I would bet your original fittings didn't need to be replaced. You just may have needed to apply a touch of thread compound to it and let it setup. 9 times out of 10 JIC (compression fittings with a running thread) need a bit of sealant between the metals that seat together to make up a leak free joint. Theoretically, it shouldn't need any sealant at all, but I like to add a little insurance to make a good seal to avoid tearing it apart again. I despise doing the same thing twice when it only needed to be done once.
Sealant should NEVER be used on acedaline gas especially if it is a petroleum based compound. Supposedly it will cause the gas to explode but I've never tested it myself! Same goes for PVC plastic, petroleum based compounds will melt the plastic. Always read the uses on the back of the product.
With NPT pipe and fittings (tapered thread joint), the thread compound acts more like a lube to get a tighter fit but at the same time helps seal. A long time ago paint was used as thread compound and it probably still holds pressure today. If the NPT fittings we taken apart and refitted a few times, the fittings will actually stretch, and a proper thread seal will be compromised. With oil lines, this is when Expando comes in handy. If it was water, Teflon tape can be used to beef up the male threads. Hydraulics also use NPT threads with a compression female joint, a little proper thread sealant never hurts.
If it's a quick connect fitting, don't use anything on the quick connect ends. If needed, use use a touch of Permatex on the tip of the male fitting where it will seat with the O ring within the female side. I would only do that in a no other choice situation.
Sealant should NEVER be used on acedaline gas especially if it is a petroleum based compound. Supposedly it will cause the gas to explode but I've never tested it myself! Same goes for PVC plastic, petroleum based compounds will melt the plastic. Always read the uses on the back of the product.
With NPT pipe and fittings (tapered thread joint), the thread compound acts more like a lube to get a tighter fit but at the same time helps seal. A long time ago paint was used as thread compound and it probably still holds pressure today. If the NPT fittings we taken apart and refitted a few times, the fittings will actually stretch, and a proper thread seal will be compromised. With oil lines, this is when Expando comes in handy. If it was water, Teflon tape can be used to beef up the male threads. Hydraulics also use NPT threads with a compression female joint, a little proper thread sealant never hurts.
If it's a quick connect fitting, don't use anything on the quick connect ends. If needed, use use a touch of Permatex on the tip of the male fitting where it will seat with the O ring within the female side. I would only do that in a no other choice situation.
Last edited:
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Permatex makes 2 different kinds of thread sealant. One is smooth, one has chunks of teflon. Get the smooth kind. Your clothes, furniture, seats will thank you later. I found the stuff with the chunks will not dry out, and ended up with it on the seats of my truck s month later.
I did not know they made a compound with Teflon, that's a great thing to point out. Every time I use that stuff I end up with on my face and in my hair! Paint thinner or gasoline are the only way I can ever get it off me. I was in my garage earlier and looked at the generic brand I have made by Hercules that is called GripIt, that stuff you may be able to find at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Permatex may be available at a car parts store, I believe they make gasket compounds too....Permatex makes 2 different kinds of thread sealant. One is smooth, one has chunks of teflon. Get the smooth kind. Your clothes, furniture, seats will thank you later. I found the stuff with the chunks will not dry out, and ended up with it on the seats of my truck s month later.
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Permatex makes everything from thread locker, rtv's, silcone, to pipe dope and anti sieze. Apperently plumbers use the pipe dope with the teflon chuncks for low pressure installs that may need to be removed in the future, like traps for sink drains and such. I like to leave the smooth stuff open for a bit to thicken it up, and just monitor it periodically through out the day till it gets to the thickness that i like. I use it on fittings for high pressure water pumps, so i either have to let it thicken or let it set for 24hrs after use to set up