Replacement Engine

coachgeo

Well-known member

Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Nov 16, 2012
2,460
35
48
Southern OH
Strongly suspect it is. ... .... Suspect an internal crack in the block. Trying to seal it up with K-Seal a LIQUID type coolant sealer. I know, no body agrees to doing that but what did I have to start with other than a bad block. Have not run it a lot or worked it since sealer has been added. Just run it around, up the road 1/2 mile and back a few times. Coolant level stay at the bottom of the neck. No evidence of coolant in the oil. I have changed it twice just in case. ...
While looking for an engine RUN IT with the sealer in there. Don't run it like you stole it...run it at normal break in procedure recommended by K-Seal. Then work her like a tractor. Don't baby her. Would LOVE to hear the results over a long time period.. You're still in the " Can't loose if you try state" so take your time in sourcing an engine and don't swap it in until the other gives up the ghost.

Much of the "it won't work" about those seals is based on history of products that came about in a world with far less science advancement than there is today. IMHO give it chance.
 
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Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
33
48
60
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
I have seen block sealants work before, one in particular was an old willys where the block was like an eggshell and seeped coolant in several places, i think its still running, and it was near 20 years ago.
 

Lil Foot

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,581
2,636
113
Peoria, AZ
Years ago I was at a drag strip talking to a guy who had bought an older rail dragster for his wife to drive. He got it cheap because the block was cracked on both sides (external crack) from being stored in Colorado with no antifreeze. He ground a vee on the crack, cleaned it, and troweled in JB Weld. He said it still didn't leak after ten years of racing.
 

chieffan

New member

Equipment
B7100HST w/RC60-71B Deck
Jan 12, 2016
89
0
0
SW Iowa Adams county
While looking for an engine RUN IT with the sealer in there. Don't run it like you stole it...run it at normal break in procedure recommended by K-Seal. Then work her like a tractor. Don't baby her. Would LOVE to hear the results over a long time period.. You're still in the " Can't loose if you try state" so take your time in sourcing an engine and don't swap it in until the other gives up the ghost.

Much of the "it won't work" about those seals is based on history of products that came about in a world with far less science advancement than there is today. IMHO give it chance.
I have seen block sealants work before, one in particular was an old willys where the block was like an eggshell and seeped coolant in several places, i think its still running, and it was near 20 years ago.
Years ago I was at a drag strip talking to a guy who had bought an older rail dragster for his wife to drive. He got it cheap because the block was cracked on both sides (external crack) from being stored in Colorado with no antifreeze. He ground a vee on the crack, cleaned it, and troweled in JB Weld. He said it still didn't leak after ten years of racing.
Thanks for the advise and vote of confidance

A good 3 weeks ago when I put the tractor in the machine shed the clutch was stuck. I put a 2 X 2 block between the clutch pedal and the foot rest and left it there. Today I wanted to use it to haul a large trailer load of red elm out of a field. Oil was 1/2 down between full and add - radiator was at the bottom of the neck. Tractor fired right up, just few second of smoke, cleared right up and ran good. Got on and it would not move either direction. Remembered the block of wood. Got off pushed the clutch down, removed the block and let up on the clutch and the motor pulled a little. Got on a away it went. Clutch is free and working. Run it about a 1/2 mile up the road and on gravel and into the field to where the tree was. Put on a good load of red elm, which as some of you may know is a darn heavy wood. Probably had over 1000 lbs of wood on. Fired it up and away we went, up hill and onto the road. It worked it a little but not but not hard at all. Had real light smoke out the oil breather tube and when I shut it off, about 6 or 8 drops of oil dripped out. Nothing like it did the last time I used it. At this point things are looking up. Clutch is free, motor runs good and clean, no smoking, seems to have plenty of power. Will see what the water and oil level is in the morning but at this point I am very happy with my little orange tractor.
 
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