Repairing a Bent Mower Deck Rim

[n00b]

While mowing a hillside area, I hit what I suspect was a mole hill in some taller grass. It's hard to understand what exactly happened, but the inner rim/lip of the mower deck (RCK60B-23BX) was dented upwards to the extent that it made blade contact in two spots

It's pretty thick steel, so I can't just take some pliers or whatnot to try to bend it back down by hand (not that it stopped me from trying out of frustration), and the low clearance under the deck makes it impossible to hammer down. I was able to file a bit of it away to provide just enough clearance for the blades, but there really should be much more clearance.

Any suggestions before just taking an angle grinder to the dented parts?

Separately, it seems that the two halves of the blade clear the dents differently, with one half having maybe a 1mm more clearance over the dent than the other (which has close to zero), meaning that one side is bent down/up with respect to the other. Not sure if anyone thinks that is significant enough for concern (I know that folks go to great lengths in balancing their blades, and clearly there's something out of balance here).

I'd post a picture but I reattached the deck to see whether it was good enough to test out (thankfully it was), and if I'm honest, it takes me far more time and effort than I'd like to admit to get the the deck on and off.

 

[mcfarmall]

You won't like this suggestion, but you should take the deck off and hammer it back out with a sledge hammer. Not like Big John but like Gepetto, tappy tappy tap a roo, for about 20 minutes or so and you'll be surprised at how effective it will be. Heavy hammer, many, many light blows.

 

[Russell King]

You can possibly get the jaws of a large cresent wrench on the edge and bend it down by prying the handle of the wrench down.

Pictures of the damage may get you better suggestions

 

[NCL4701]

Hard to say without pics. If it’s something you could theoretically bend with pliers if the mower was on a lift and you were a gorilla, try a pipe wrench. Doesn’t need much clearance and not unusual to have a rather large one around the shop somewhere.

I do agree slow and steady with a hammer is ideal if practical as it will relieve the stress in the steel as it moves back. But I’ve straightened more mower decks and bush hog decks than I care to admit with a 3’ pipe wrench; particularly in the field to keep the operation moving and then make it a little prettier on a rainy day.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I just 'reshaped' a deck that 'somehow' had 1-1/2" 'warp' in it. Once I marked out the area of interest, strapped in down onto my workbench and use a 4ton 'portapower' unit,several times to tweak the deck back into shape. A litter here, a lot there, and it came back with an 1/8" of flat. Learned long ago, whacking with a big hammer can lead to more damage,if hit wrong place or too many times.
Trick was to remove 100% of all the 'stuff' on the deck...spindles, wheels, mounts, etc. That made it easy to see and mark the bend.
Reassembled,mounted and used the deck yesterday... it cuts and performs as a new one does.
Patience...slow and steady wins the race.

 

[n00b]

Apologies for the lack of pictures – I was thinking about taking the deck off again tonight to take a few, but life got busy (or at least a giant, hollowed out old maple got needing to be limbed and bucked).

There are some good suggestions here already though. If I'm honest, I hadn't thought of a pipe wrench, as I've never actually owned one. I don't have a lift, but I might be able to keep the deck in place on its side for some bending room. The "portapower" unit sounds interesting, so I'll have to look into that.

Thank you

 

[D2Cat]

If you're without wrenches this would be a good one to own for task like you have. The longer handled ones give more leverage. For something you don't use much you may find one at Harbor Freight that will work. I always called it a monkey wrench, but I'm sure has other names.

You may be able to raise the deck as far as possible and put some lumbar, 4x4, 6x6 (NOT CEMENT, OR BRICK) blocks to provide safety for your work.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI-KTI49309-Wrench/dp/B00MME7P9Q/ref=asc_df_B00MME7P9Q?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79852150119080&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451676843318&psc=1

 

[GeoHorn]

D2Cat, I always heard that called a “Ford’ wrench…. not only because it looks like the letter “F”…but because Ford always included one in their early tool-kits.

 

[bbxlr8]

Don't know what the gauge is on my f@rd 60"mmm but it is really thick! Here in "Rockville" PA I have still managed to bend it occasionally.

I use a combo of the above - BIG ole crescent wrench from my grandfather and judicious use of a big sledge. FWIW There was no tapping going on - it took a mid-level swing to get it moving and ear protection.

I do recommend starting lighter on weight (think 3 or 4 # engineer hammer) & mild swings - the deck will let you know what it needs

 

[n00b]

I finally got around to taking the deck off.

I looked into Porta Power jacks, but I couldn't see an obvious way to use one in the limited clearance under the deck, especially given the curve that the walls take towards the top of the deck – but to be clear, I've never used one, so I could be either overlooking some common attachment or strategy.

So far, I'm thinking that I should pick up a 3' pipe wrench and see whether I can get it to budge. I'm still not sure how I'm going to orient or support it in the process. I'm thinking about maybe flipping the whole thing upside down.

Here's what I'm dealing with:

 

[PaulL]

I had a bend much like that. My biggest crescent spanner took it out just fine. You don't have to squeeze, so it's easier to put good leverage on it. I'd try that before anything else, because you'll have a big crescent if you sharpen your own blades. If you don't.....get one, so you can sharpen your own blades.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

picture is great !...
aw, this is easy... that's the lip of the side...
get a pair of vicegrips , that still have good 'teeth', clamp on tight, at the 'mountain peak', facing down and pull 'towards the ground'...
Depending on how young and strong you are, will take 1-3 pulls. fisrt is the mtn top, then 1/2 way down the mtn on both sides.....

vicegrips are best as they are SECURELY attached to the lip,then pipe wrench then channellocks,last adjustable wrench. When pulling it out just be careful and plan ahead if (when ?) the tool lets loose that you don't whack yourself and then need 15 bandaids to fix YOUR booboo....
wish my 'bent metal deck' projects were that easy......

 

[sitric]

Heat is your friend. Preferred is oxy-acetolene, but even a cheap mapp gas with turbo helps greatly if you get the metal glowing.

 

[Henro]

Heat is your friend. Preferred is oxy-acetolene, but even a cheap mapp gas with turbo helps greatly if you get the metal glowing.

I think oxy-propane would be preferable and cheaper. LOL...but I get your point...acetylene by the way I think...damn spell checkers!

 

[sitric]

I think oxy-propane would be preferable and cheaper. LOL...but I get your point...acetylene by the way I think...damn spell checkers!

It takes 4 times the oxygen to use with propane than it does acetylene. I've had the same tank of acetylene for 10 years, so not sure about the cost, as it lasts a long time for my hobbyist work.

 

[n00b]

FWIW, before heading out to buy that pipe wrench, I ended up finding an old crescent wrench with a handle long enough to bend things back into shape. It wasn't easy, but it worked better than I thought it would.

I appreciate the suggestions.