I have a loader cylinder that has a decent leak that needs repair. I planned on taking it to a local shop to have them fix the seals. This is my first tractor so I have never done this before. Is it pretty easy to just pop the pins holding the cylinder and disconnect the hoses. Are there any things I need to keep in mind when doing this? The Tractor is a B2710 with an LA402 loader. Any info is appreciated.
Repair LA 402 Loader Cylinder.
- Thread starter Jriedy85
- Start date
If it was my loader I would not hesitate to take it to the hydraulic shop and leave it to the professionals. I've rebuilt front forks on motorcycles but that's about the extent of my hydraulic expertise.
I did the same thing with two cylinders on my LA402 loader. Was easier and not much more expensive than just buying the Kubota seal kits and trying to accomplish it myself.
In my case it was the curl cylinders. I got both done at the same time. ONLY because soon after I found the first leaking, the second started leaking.
I would suggest you get both cylinders rebuilt at the same time if you have the funds available. In my case it cost me $100 per cylinder. Seal kits were about $60 or a bit more delivered. So for $40 per cylinder, someone else with experience did the job the right way...was worth it to me, big time.
Edit: You just make sure the loader is situated in a way that it will not move when the cylinders are removed. When you put them back on, if there is air in the system, cycling the cylinders from end to end a few times will purge the air from the system and you will be good to go.
maybe I didn’t get across what I was trying to ask. I plan on taking the cylinders to a shop to have them do the repair work. I’m just asking about taking the cylinder itself off of the loader frame.
Remove the hoses from the end of the cyl before removing the pins. Just a lot easier to have the cylinder anchored while wrenching. No big surprises to worry about. Won't lose but a few drops of hyd. fluid.
Last edited:
I guess the thread title saying "Repair" threw me off a bit...
Anyway, D2Cat's advice is right on.
Also, with the cylinder hoses off, the cylinder rod will be free to move slightly and the pins should slide out easily.
An added benefit is that should you not have the loader in a total passive state, it may shift slightly to a more stable state, before you remove the cylinders, which is also a positive.
Last edited: