Removing T-Posts - almost fell over

[eljuncal]

Yep - we learn through failure ... thankfully - my failures so far with the tractor have not resulted in loss or injury ...

Learned yet again today ... I was removing some t-posts (used to secure newly planted trees) from trees that have matured and no longer need them ...

I have a hook on my bucket and was lifting a t-post out of the ground (via a strap) when ... as I lifted the bucket to pull the t-post ... my front right tire seemed to sink into the ground and .. instantly my left rear tire left the ground and the tractor began to dangerously tilt ... yikes.

Glad I have the ballast in the tires ... nope, no rear attachments, just the quick hitch ...

I'm normally very much aware of carrying heavy loads ... go slow, carry it low, etc. Didn't really think a t-post could tip me over ... now I know.

 

[Pony Doc]

I've had that experience too many times with various tractors and appropriate rear weighting. I use a HiLift jack, it only takes 2-3 minutes. The tractor hauls the posts and jack. Much safer and very little effort.

 

[bird dogger]

If you want to make them real easy to pull out..... remove a little dirt around the pole, add some water, wiggle the pole to let the water down alongside the pole turning the soil alongside to mud.....pull pole.

Works great for pulling ground rods as well.

 

[GeoHorn]

Add a hook, or better yet, a clevis to the Middle of your bucket. (In the pic below, this was existing when I bought my tractor…. I later added hooks in front of each cylinder. Pulling/lifting from the center clevis will not “tip” the tractor.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

another 'option', use the 3PH hydraulics. depending on the tractor, 3PH probably lifts more than the loader can

 

[tsp159]

another 'option', use the 3PH hydraulics. depending on the tractor, 3PH probably lifts more than the loader can

Plus the added benefit of leverage. The FEL plus the engine being a long way from the rear axle centerline means the 3PH has a very short radius to try and apply torque. Doubtful you'd get enough lift to roll the whole tractor backwards that way!

 

[In Utopia]

As well as using the 3pt, curling the bucket instead of pull straight up will help.
I made a device for the 3 point that I lower over the post, then as pulling up it locks into the post, and out it comes without ever getting off the tractor.
Pulled several posts that have been in caliche for years taught me a lot about pulling posts.

 

[Magicman]

The simplest and safest way for me to pull T posts is using a T Post Puller

 

[ve9aa]

Rear ballast.

Pull from center of bucket.

 

[GBJeffOH]

Yep - we learn through failure ... thankfully - my failures so far with the tractor have not resulted in loss or injury ...

Learned yet again today ... I was removing some t-posts (used to secure newly planted trees) from trees that have matured and no longer need them ...

I have a hook on my bucket and was lifting a t-post out of the ground (via a strap) when ... as I lifted the bucket to pull the t-post ... my front right tire seemed to sink into the ground and .. instantly my left rear tire left the ground and the tractor began to dangerously tilt ... yikes.

Glad I have the ballast in the tires ... nope, no rear attachments, just the quick hitch ...

I'm normally very much aware of carrying heavy loads ... go slow, carry it low, etc. Didn't really think a t-post could tip me over ... now I know.

 

[GBJeffOH]

I was not nervous. I knew all I had to do was let the bucket down.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think you would be surprised how much of an angle you would need to get it for it to roll on you.
I've had my L at a 45 degree angle with the rear tire off the ground and it didn't roll.
It's also a matter of speed and momentum of the action too.

 

[fried1765]

another 'option', use the 3PH hydraulics. depending on the tractor, 3PH probably lifts more than the loader can

Easy way.
Use hook a chain to the hook on the back hoe bucket.

 

[aaluck]

I once did the same type mistake. When I first purchased my tractor it came with a bunch of stuff, including an old 3 row bottom plow. Sold it and was moving it for the guy to his truck. Long story short I felt parts of the body slamming shut.

 

[Henro]

First, I doubt you almost fell over. Your rear tire lifted off the ground.

Second, where was the hook you used? If on one end of the bucket no surprise.

Third, it is good you are aware of dangers related to tipping a tractor on its side. Even when not moving.

Forth, nothing beats a reminder now and then…

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

I think you would be surprised how much of an angle you would need to get it for it to roll on you.
I've had my L at a 45 degree angle with the rear tire off the ground and it didn't roll.
It's also a matter of speed and momentum of the action too.

45 degrees? Like, from one side to the other?

 

[D2Cat]

You might be safer using a draw bar on the 3 point. Wrap the chain on it and pull up.

 

[skeets]

Hell we use to use an old truck wheel, chain over the top and chain to the bottom of the post and then to the draw bar, and drive forward 9 out of 10 time they will pull streight up and you can use them again

 

[jimh406]

I always have ballast on even with loaded tires. Seems like good insurance.

 

[NCL4701]

I pull T posts with the loader. Used to pull them with 3 point before we had a loader. Use the 3 point now only if necessary and that’s very rare. Loader has enough stroke to pull the post all the way out. 3 point doesn’t unless the post is set pretty shallow. With the loader you can leave enough slack in the chain to not get the post in a bind coming straight out of the ground while being pulled by a drawbar or loader that’s moving in an arc so there’s less chance of it bending. 3 point is quite a bit slower, more likely to bend the post, and there’s no more danger pulling a T post with a loader than there is picking up an object of unknown weight such as a log, large rock, etc. If the loader won’t pull it immediately, a little gentle nudging back and forth with the tractor will almost always loosen it enough to get it moving. I generally prefer to use a T post puller plate chained to the fork rack as that gets the pull point as near the tractor as possible to maximize available force.

I didn’t really take the OP’s post as an issue of how to best pull a T post but more of a good reminder that even tasks that might seem to have very little danger still require a little thought about where the risk points are in the process and require a reasonable level of concentration from the operator to be safe.

In that regard, his example was a good one. How much trouble could you really get in just pulling a little T post with a loader? Not much unless the T post doesn’t move, in which case the loader isn’t picking up a 8lb post, it’s applying the maximum lifting force it’s capable of to both the post and tractor. With a stuck post you need as much ballast on the back as you need for a heaped bucket of wet sand. That and recognition of the danger point on the process has some impact on operator behavior. Unless the terrain by itself is dangerous, the only real “danger” point is when the chain is tight but the post hasn’t moved. That’s the point where you lift slowly and really focus because if something is going to get weird, this is when it’s happening. Lifting slowly, if a rear wheel lifts just stop lifting and set it back down. If the chain slips, just rehook it. Once the post starts moving, go ahead and rip it out. Slowing down a little at that one point in the process where the maximum risk for some issue exists costs maybe 5 seconds extra at most.

So thanks for the reminder to put a little thought into whatever you’re doing and stay reasonably vigilant while doing it.