Removing Sod

MW3Designs

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Just got my Kubota and my brother in-law is trying to put in a garden at his house. Last time I did a garden I rented the Sod Cutter, removed sod and tilled. With the Kubota sitting here I’m wondering if it would be feasible to try and use the bucket to remove the sod layer? I do have the bolt on teeth for the bucket, and also a land pride rear plow.

Would any of you guys try to tackle this with the tractor? Or is this something that needs the right tool for the job like the sod cutter?


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i7win7

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Maybe spraying vegetation killer, wait 5-7 days then till? I think sod cutter would also remove valuable top soil.
 

SidecarFlip

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Spray it with Roundup Ultra Max or any high potency Glyphosate and wait 7 days and till it. Half life for Glyphosate is 7 days. Kills everything.. After a week, it's inert.

Use a normal rototiiller, don't strip off the sod, grind it up.
 

GeoHorn

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According to the Nat’l Pesticide Information Center http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/archive/glyphotech.html

The half-life of glyphosate in soil ranges between 2 and 197 days; a typical field half-life of 47 days has been suggested. Soil and climate conditions affect glyphosate's persistence in soil. The median half-life of glyphosate in water varies from a few to 91 days.[52] At a site in Texas, half-life was as little as three days. A site in Iowa had a half-life of 141.9 days.[84] The glyphosate metabolite AMPA has been found in Swedish forest soils up to two years after a glyphosate application. In this case, the persistence of AMPA was attributed to the soil being frozen for most of the year.[85] Glyphosate adsorption to soil, and later release from soil, varies depending on the kind of soil.[86][87] Glyphosate is generally less persistent in water than in soil, with 12- to 60-day persistence observed in Canadian ponds, although persistence of over a year has been recorded in the sediments of American ponds.[83] The half-life of glyphosate in water is between 12 days and 10 weeks.[88]
 

miketrock

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A neighbor of mine just tilled sod and all with a walk behind tiller. I think you can do it with your tractor, just go slow enough that you dont bog it down. When he was done, later in the day after the left over grass dried up some, he raked the grass off the top.
 

beex

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I have used the bucket to pull up sod multiple times. It won’t just scoop up, because you’ll loose traction. The best technique is to get the cutting edge under the sod a couple inches, push forward a few, curl bucket up to rip up what you have, curl back down level or slightly down, advance a few inches and repeat. once you get the pattern it goes pretty fast. It can compact the soil, so I then break it up with my aerator. Then I put new top soil on. top.


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Creature Meadow

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When you say you have a plow, is it a bottom plow? If so, you could use it to roll the sod under ground.

I just added some width to my garden, about 10' wide and 80' long.

I used my disk harrow to go over in cutting up the sod. I allowed it to dry couple days then pulled a piece of chain link over it to loosen it up and break the grass free from the dirt. Used a blower to blow the grass from the area.

Repeated this process 2 more times and it now looks good as the rest of the garden.

If you have a disk this may be an option for you.
 

GreensvilleJay

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yeesh, do NOT remove the sod !! That's nearly 100% Nitorgen, something EVERY veggy wants !!
Plow it N-S, then E-W, wait 2-3 days depending on weather, then plow again, this time S-N then W-E, wait 2-3 days, then rototill....
Be sure to add well composted compost ( leaves,grass,ponypoop, etc) EVERY year if you expect great crops.....
 

mikester

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The sod cutter will give you the most uniform cut unless your land is perfectly flat and you are really skillful with the loader controls. For small areas I use a flat ditching shovel and do it by hand. For large areas Id rent a sod cutter. I can peel off layers with the backhoe but I find I lose too much topsoil with the trenching bucket especially if the ground is rolling.
 

GeoHorn

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Due to an away-from-home job I had for the last ten years of my career, I let our garden go back-to-nature, which means it totally became covered with local turf-grasses, a mix of crab-grass, nut-grass, and KR bluestem. It was like it had never been anything other.
With retirement and this current virus I found a desire to garden again and since my garden area is fenced-in with cyclone fencing to keep deer out it is unsuitable for tractor-work.
Six weeks ago I used my walk-behind tiller to turn it over, waited four days letting the exposed grasses die-out, and did it again. I used the ridiculous little “middlebuster” blade that tiller came with to make rows and planted tomato seedlings, pepper seedlings, cucumbers seedlings, seed corn, beans, squash, and beans, and a row of okra. I put a shovel-full of manure around the tomatoes, cukes, and squash, and sprayed Miracle-Grow on the rest after they sprouted. That was 4 weeks ago.

They’re now 3 feet tall and producing tomatoes and squash and the rest (except the corn) are fully flowering ( The corn is 3’ tall surrounded by the beans and squash as I planted those in the same rows a-la Native American. The okra is about 10” up now, being a bit slower, it’s not producing flowers yet).

It’s a beautiful garden again (and the asparagus at the north-end, now 5’ tall, never quit throughout the ten year fallow-period but it’s invaded with johnson-grass and DW promises to hand-weed those. We’ll cut it back afterward and will enjoy new shoots later in a fall-garden.). I’ve used pickling-vinegar as a weed-control in the asparagus many years ago and will likely treat any new johnson-grass pop-ups as they occur.

Anyway... I’ll bet you can use a tiller to turn/chop that turf and let it return nutrients to the soil and have a garden planted in a week and not lose that valuable topsoil. Go for it!
 

SidecarFlip

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According to the Nat***8217;l Pesticide Information Center http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/archive/glyphotech.html

The half-life of glyphosate in soil ranges between 2 and 197 days; a typical field half-life of 47 days has been suggested. Soil and climate conditions affect glyphosate's persistence in soil. The median half-life of glyphosate in water varies from a few to 91 days.[52] At a site in Texas, half-life was as little as three days. A site in Iowa had a half-life of 141.9 days.[84] The glyphosate metabolite AMPA has been found in Swedish forest soils up to two years after a glyphosate application. In this case, the persistence of AMPA was attributed to the soil being frozen for most of the year.[85] Glyphosate adsorption to soil, and later release from soil, varies depending on the kind of soil.[86][87] Glyphosate is generally less persistent in water than in soil, with 12- to 60-day persistence observed in Canadian ponds, although persistence of over a year has been recorded in the sediments of American ponds.[83] The half-life of glyphosate in water is between 12 days and 10 weeks.[88]
Here we go with all the technical bs again. Been using Glyphosate for years to kill off native grass prior to planting. Apply, wait 7 days sometimes 10 if the weather isn't cooperating and plant.

Glyphosate binds with soil microbes if used over and over again ans supposedly causes cancer if aspirated through your epidermis but I'm still here and I have about 15 gallons in the barn to use.

George, you really need to lighten up a bit. Your technical dissertations get boring...


Bottom line is, every farmer I know of uses it and you get to consume the end product. be happy.
 
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GeoHorn

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Here we go with all the technical bs again. Been using Glyphosate for years to kill off native grass prior to planting. Apply, wait 7 days sometimes 10 if the weather isn't cooperating and plant.

Glyphosate binds with soil microbes if used over and over again ans supposedly causes cancer if aspirated through your epidermis but I'm still here and I have about 15 gallons in the barn to use.

George, you really need to lighten up a bit. Your technical dissertations get boring...


Bottom line is, every farmer I know of uses it and you get to consume the end product. be happy.
Flip, you miss the intent of my post.

I use the stuff myself. I use it all the time out on the pasture and on the runway to kill mesquite pop-ups. <edit: I don’t use it on food-plots. It’s been found in food many months later. I don’t use it in the garden even tho’ no proven harm has been shown to humans in food.>

But your post mentions only one datapoint (7 days) when the FACTS are different... as little as 2 days...(which I doubt you object to that being posted) and many many MORE, depending upon local soil conditions. You don’t want to believe that? Then don’t. But denying science, even science from the VERY INDUSTRY that produces the stuff.... is ..well... purposefully-chosen ignorance.

(And since-when is sharing information a bad thing?) :rolleyes:
 

SidecarFlip

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Well George, I'd say that if you consume any grown foodstuffs, cereal, cooking oil, pasta or whatever, chances are pretty good the fields they are grown on are prepped with Glyphosate in one form or another (brand). I happen to use Monsanto but there are many out there, of course all licensed by Monsanto.
 

GeoHorn

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Of course, Monsanto is now owned by Bayer... (both of them former death-camp operators....kinda ironic, don’t you think?)

Most of the glyphosate mfr’s these days are chineese and who knows what the hell they put in it.
 

hope to float

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I refuse to use glyphosate after witnessing it's effect on some wildlife at work a few years ago. But that's just me