Removing FEL with a tooth bar on bucket

[RMS]

I have a heavy hitch tooth bar on order and am wondering if I can leave it on the bucket when I take the FEL off to install the snowblower in the fall. Not sure if the tooth bar can take the stress of lifting the front end to release the pins.

 

[85Hokie]

I have a heavy hitch tooth bar on order and am wondering if I can leave it on the bucket when I take the FEL off to install the snowblower in the fall. Not sure if the tooth bar can take the stress of lifting the front end to release the pins.

I would think any toothbar that engages the ground could handle the weight of the FEL.....
Now, I agree that it might interfere with the lay of the bucket once off.

 

[DeepWoods]

I have a BXpanded Piranah tooth bar on the front of my B2650HSDC and it is no problem leaving it on when I remove the FEL in the fall to install my blower. I make sure it is flat on the floor when I take it off, so it doesn’t bite anyone as they walk by it. In fact, it hasn’t been taken off since it was installed.

 

[Henro]

I have a heavy hitch tooth bar on order and am wondering if I can leave it on the bucket when I take the FEL off to install the snowblower in the fall. Not sure if the tooth bar can take the stress of lifting the front end to release the pins.

It has been a long time since I removed my loader. So for the sake of education, I would say that I only remember needing to adjust the loader by moving the arm/bucket cylinders as required to remove the pins from the loader mounting arms.

Never needed to point the bucket downwards into the ground, Kept the bucket horizontal to the best of my memory.

So I am confused by the question.

Please explain what I am missing for my personal education, although doing so will not help answer your question. ONLY if you have time...

 

[RMS]

It has been a long time since I removed my loader. So for the sake of education, I would say that I only remember needing to adjust the loader by moving the arm/bucket cylinders as required to remove the pins from the loader mounting arms.

Never needed to point the bucket downwards into the ground, Kept the bucket horizontal to the best of my memory.

So I am confused by the question.

Please explain what I am missing for my personal education, although doing so will not help answer your question. ONLY if you have time...

From what I was told when the tractor was delivered, I should have the bucket at about a 20 deg angle when setting on the ground to lift enough to release the pins. I'm new to all of this so that is the reason for asking. I also wondered if the bucket could be flat to the ground to start. Believe me, any input is welcomed. Also the action of curling and dumping the bucket moves the opening for the pin in relation to the pivot point at the bottom to remove or install the pins.
I don't mind explaining as this makes me think it through and helps me as well as you to understand my question.

 

[NCL4701]

It kind of depends on the geometry of your loader and yours is different from mine so it may vary a bit in operation. Mine is the old style, manually moved stand bars (not the newer, fancier Quik-Tach or whatever they call the complicated setup). If you have the newer complicated style you should probably ignore this.

For mine, curling the bucket to raise the front of the tractor is required in the removal procedure. Why is described in procedure below.

1) Find a flat spot.
2) Raise loader.
3) Lower and lock stand arms.
4) Lower loader to slightly raise front of tractor. This is where the curl is required. If you have the bucket flat or curled back, the stand arms contact the floor/ground before the bucket. They aren’t designed to support the weight of the tractor so if you keep lowering, you’ll bend the support arms. The fix for that is curl the bucket down so it hits the ground before or at the same time as the stand arms so the bucket is taking the weight of the tractor. Just barely raise the front of the tractor. (That’s why you have to curl the bucket and why your tooth bar will have the weight of the front of the tractor on it.)
5) Remove the loader mount pins.
6) Slowly curl the bucket back. The loader should pop out.
7) If it doesn’t come out far enough just curling the bucket back to flat, lower the boom a little. That will actually raise the back of the loader.
8) Remove hydraulic lines.
9) Back away slowly.

So yes, you do have to curl the bucket to raise the front of the tractor with the bucket edge, and yes, you can leave the bucket flat on the floor after it’s off.

Edit: Can the tooth bar take the weight of the front of the tractor? No clue. I take the loader of and put it back on about 4 times/year but don’t have a tooth bar.

 

[RMS]

I have a BXpanded Piranah tooth bar on the front of my B2650HSDC and it is no problem leaving it on when I remove the FEL in the fall to install my blower. I make sure it is flat on the floor when I take it off, so it doesn’t bite anyone as they walk by it. In fact, it hasn’t been taken off since it was installed.

It kind of depends on the geometry of your loader and yours is different from mine so it may vary a bit in operation. Mine is the old style, manually moved stand bars (not the newer, fancier Quik-Tach or whatever they call the complicated setup). If you have the newer complicated style you should probably ignore this.

For mine, curling the bucket to raise the front of the tractor is required in the removal procedure. Why is described in procedure below.

1) Find a flat spot.
2) Raise loader.
3) Lower and lock stand arms.
4) Lower loader to slightly raise front of tractor. This is where the curl is required. If you have the bucket flat or curled back, the stand arms contact the floor/ground before the bucket. They aren’t designed to support the weight of the tractor so if you keep lowering, you’ll bend the support arms. The fix for that is curl the bucket down so it hits the ground before or at the same time as the stand arms so the bucket is taking the weight of the tractor. Just barely raise the front of the tractor. (That’s why you have to curl the bucket and why your tooth bar will have the weight of the front of the tractor on it.)
5) Remove the loader mount pins.
6) Slowly curl the bucket back. The loader should pop out.
7) If it doesn’t come out far enough just curling the bucket back to flat, lower the boom a little. That will actually raise the back of the loader.
8) Remove hydraulic lines.
9) Back away slowly.

So yes, you do have to curl the bucket to raise the front of the tractor with the bucket edge, and yes, you can leave the bucket flat on the floor after it’s off.

Edit: Can the tooth bar take the weight of the front of the tractor? No clue. I take the loader of and put it back on about 4 times/year but don’t have a tooth bar.

Thanks, those are the same instructions that I am working with. I will probably see how the tooth bar works this summer and see what my comfort level is for leaving it on when removing the FEL.

 

[85Hokie]

Thanks, those are the same instructions that I am working with. I will probably see how the tooth bar works this summer and see what my comfort level is for leaving it on when removing the FEL.

as with anything - practice helps, it will get easier as you do it more

 

[Creature Meadow]

It kind of depends on the geometry of your loader and yours is different from mine so it may vary a bit in operation. Mine is the old style, manually moved stand bars (not the newer, fancier Quik-Tach or whatever they call the complicated setup). If you have the newer complicated style you should probably ignore this.

For mine, curling the bucket to raise the front of the tractor is required in the removal procedure. Why is described in procedure below.

1) Find a flat spot.
2) Raise loader.
3) Lower and lock stand arms.
4) Lower loader to slightly raise front of tractor. This is where the curl is required. If you have the bucket flat or curled back, the stand arms contact the floor/ground before the bucket. They aren’t designed to support the weight of the tractor so if you keep lowering, you’ll bend the support arms. The fix for that is curl the bucket down so it hits the ground before or at the same time as the stand arms so the bucket is taking the weight of the tractor. Just barely raise the front of the tractor. (That’s why you have to curl the bucket and why your tooth bar will have the weight of the front of the tractor on it.)
5) Remove the loader mount pins.
6) Slowly curl the bucket back. The loader should pop out.
7) If it doesn’t come out far enough just curling the bucket back to flat, lower the boom a little. That will actually raise the back of the loader.
8) Remove hydraulic lines.
9) Back away slowly.

So yes, you do have to curl the bucket to raise the front of the tractor with the bucket edge, and yes, you can leave the bucket flat on the floor after it’s off.

Edit: Can the tooth bar take the weight of the front of the tractor? No clue. I take the loader of and put it back on about 4 times/year but don’t have a tooth bar.

You should have no problem, I use the process above better than once a month to remove my loader and have a tooth bar on mine. Many tasks I do the loader just gets in my way and I don't like it sticking out there, especially in my garden.

You will be fine, my loader is removed on a cement pad and after 6 years of off and on with the tooth bar no issues.

Best of luck.

Jay

 

[RMS]

You should have no problem, I use the process above better than once a month to remove my loader and have a tooth bar on mine. Many tasks I do the loader just gets in my way and I don't like it sticking out there, especially in my garden.

You will be fine, my loader is removed on a cement pad and after 6 years of off and on with the tooth bar no issues.

Best of luck.

Jay

Thanks, I appreciate all of the comments/suggestions.