Removing deck on kubota L tractor

[Getorange]

Looking for assistance on deck removal. I have a hydraulic line that runs over the transmission case. The only way to access is by removing the deck. I have removed everything to the rear of the tractor deck and all the bolts on the front and back of the deck. Currently the deck slides and moves but cant be removed due to a metal flange from the steering column. The metal flange part looks like a can of worms. Any ideas on getting the deck off or do I need to start tearing into the steering column to get the metal flange part removed. Bolts through the flange secures attach to the deck to secure it. However, there isnt enough room to slide the deck out from under the flange.
Thanks

I would include a picture but I am having trouble attaching it.

 

[Dave_eng]

Re: removing deck on kabota L tractor

Plse provide some more details. What L series. What model of mower. I assume you are talking about a mid mower. Why are you removing the mower?

If you are lacking clearance, why not just drive the front wheels up unto some wood blocks?

I think you need 5 posts to be able to attach photos.

Dave

 

[Getorange]

Re: removing deck on kabota L tractor

I'm inquiring on the drive deck not mower deck. I have a hydraulic line issue that runs over the transmission case and the only way to access is by removing the seat, seat frame all the bolts attached to the front and back of the deck.

 

[lugbolt]

I'm assuming this is a grand L series? 3240, 3130, 3010, 3600, etc?

If so, you have to remove the steering column completely from the tractor. It ain't that bad! Remove the cluster. Theres a couple bolts behind it. Remove those bolts. Remove the bolts on the sides, remove the bolts on the bottom, disconnect the brake and clutch linkages and if you have a way to do it, run a rope or something around the steering wheel and attach it to, say, your rafters in the shop (if available). Then lift it enough to get the fender assembly off. If you can't "hold" it up, you'll have to just remove the entire assembly, it's about 100 lbs. Get a helper. Also you'll have to disconnect some wiring in order to fully remove it. That's why I like to just lift and hold them if possible. Some of them have a couple wire connectors underneath that you can disconnect and then lift it off, others do not have the connectors so you have to remove the harness from the tractor with the pedestal (that or disconnect each part of the pedestal).

Once you do it, you'll realize that it's not really as bad as you thought it would be. Don't sweat it. Just dive in and be smart about it. The wiring is the worst part and that's not really hard at all.

 

[D2Cat]

Getorange, what model of tractor are you working on? Are you trying to get to the hyd return line that is on top of the transmission and attached with a banjo bolt, by chance?

Can you post a couple of pictures of your problem? You need 5 post to be able to post, so you can post about anything to get to five.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It would really help if you would say what model L you are working with, there are hundreds of different models, and none of them are the same.

And it's not called a deck, it's either a floor sheet or steps depending on the model.

 

[Getorange]

D2Cat-
Working on a grand l 3130 and yes that is the line I am trying to replace. It sure seems the deck needs to be removed to replace it. A big stick pushed up against it when brush hogging and compromised it. Any idea on how to handle it???
Thanks

 

[Getorange]

3130 grand L

 

[Getorange]

lugbolt-
Great info. Pulled the steering console off and removed the outside bolts. Thought I was going able to wiggle it out, but no luck. Had given up until I saw your tutorial. One question. Can you explain the fender assembly? It is the only thing I dont understand and I like to visualize before I jump in.
Thanks again
Brother in Orange.

ps. grand l 3130 tractor

 

[D2Cat]

GetOrange, I had a leak at the copper seals on the banjo bolt on the L4240. The bolt is difficult to get to the top with very little room and then the bolt head hand been buggered up by someone else.

I cut off a socket on both ends and welded a bolt head on one end to be able to get to it. Took a while to figure what direction to go, and then to find the socket to sacrifice and then to fab it up, but it was easier then disassembling the tractor!!

Here's some pictures. That tube goes to the front of the tractor to the oil cooler. There is hose on the other end, so there is some flexibility to move it.

Those copper seal washers were $1 each.