Reloading the loader. Couplers won't connect.

[Gaspasser]

Removed snowblower and subframe today. Tried to reattach loader but could not connect hydraulic lines despite strong effort and appropriate string of profanities. I cycled the loader control with engine off to relieve pressure but no joy. Connectors are clean and collars retract easily. Is it possible loader side has built up pressure just sitting over winter? Was cold when I dropped it and was 60 degrees today. Is that enough to pressurize the loader hoses? If so, how do I relieve it? Or do I need to start lifting weights at the gym?

 

[Kennyd4110]

Yes, common issue. You will need to relieve the pressure on the loader lines, you can 'crack' some fittings to do that. Be sure to cover them with a rag and where heavy gloves while doing this. Fluid injection is no joke!

 

[bobnic]

Assuming they are pioneer style fittings with the raised nub, wrap a rag over the end of the male fitting and tap the nub through the rag to release some fluid. For the female fitting also wrap a rag and use a metal rod or bolt to reach the nub and tap to release fluid.

 

[Gaspasser]

Yes, common issue. You will need to relieve the pressure on the loader lines, you can 'crack' some fittings to do that. Be sure to cover them with a rag and where heavy gloves while doing this. Fluid injection is no joke!

Wow. Really? That much pressure? I have heard of hydaulic fluid embolism but would expect that pressure with engine running, not when sitting idle for months. Thank you for advice!

 

[Kennyd4110]

That much pressure?

If they have 100lbs on them you wont connect them.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Assuming they are pioneer style fittings with the raised nub,

Most Kubotas have females on the loader side, that makes it a bit more difficult to get to the poppet.

 

[Gaspasser]

Assuming they are pioneer style fittings with the raised nub, wrap a rag over the end of the male fitting and tap the nub through the rag to release some fluid. For the female fitting also wrap a rag and use a metal rod or bolt to reach the nub and tap to release fluid.

It is the pioneer style female connector on the loader side. I did gently try to depress the nipple but was concerned I would damage them. Perhaps I'll loosen the loader side of the hoses where they attach to cylinder fittings as has been suggested. Thanks all for the education!

 

[bobnic]

Most Kubotas have females on the loader side, that makes it a bit more difficult to get to the poppet.

That's why I said to use a metal rod to reach the poppet on the female coupling. This its very easy to do and does not damage the fitting. Just insert the short rod, wrap a rag around and give the end of the rod a sharp tap. Fluid will release and the pressure will be off.

 

[xrocketengineer]

On my BX (much smaller of course) I can push the quick coupler lever for the loader while moving around the joystick and it all pops in place. On the other side, I push in the pioneer connectors in place (one at a time) while alternating pressing the third function switches and no problem either. No more fiddling with the couplers anymore.

 

[chim]

I made a crude tool to relieve the pressure on the female (loader) side by shortening the lower jaw of a cheap grooved pliers. The lower jaw catches on the fitting and the top jaw presses a small piece of hardwood against the tip that sticks up inside the fitting. You still need to gag it with an old towel. Otherwise it'll squirt SUHD2 6 feet. I've also used just the piece of hardwood and small hammer. Again, cover it with a rag. Even then it can still be messier than you'd think.

I always shove the joystick all around several times after shutting the engine down before pulling the connectors apart. That helps with reattachment, but temperature changes etc. can still cause issues.

 

[BAP]

Go out first thing in the morning when it is cold and try attaching the fittings. The pressure will be less and a good chance that they will hook right up.

 

[Mowbizz]

I just put my FEL back on the other day after a winter sitting outside…only one connector gave me trouble but working the loader stick all around and on the 2nd try it clicked in. What was worse was in the summer when dropping the FEL to and BH to mow…those fittings were fickle when HOT!

 

[powerkraut]

Yes, common issue. You will need to relieve the pressure on the loader lines, you can 'crack' some fittings to do that. Be sure to cover them with a rag and where heavy gloves while doing this. Fluid injection is no joke!

I learned something new today, 100 lbs is all it takes to breach human skin. Thanks for giving me a reason to wear ppe when I'm mucking around with hydraulics.

 

[old and tired]

This is why I leave my chain host mounted inside my shed above where I usually drop my FEL. Lifting made easy!

 

[Flintknapper]

Yes, common issue. You will need to relieve the pressure on the loader lines, you can 'crack' some fittings to do that. Be sure to cover them with a rag and where heavy gloves while doing this. Fluid injection is no joke!

^^^^^

Safest, easiest way to do it IMO.

 

[BBFarmer]

So its not just me that has this problem. Good to know.

Several years ago, the first time I took the loader off my 3301, couldn't for the life of me get the lines back on.

I look in, see the detent, say to the boy, "Boy! Go get dad a hammer and screwdriver."

2 minutes later (because like a smart guy, I looked right at it) I'm walking blindly to my basement sink with eyes full of oil. It actually blew the contact out of my left eye.

So now if the loader has been off more than a couple days I just come ready with tools. I reckon cracking a line would be better?

I mean, after i shut down, I move the loader stick around and let her settle, but if its been a couple days they aint popping right back on. Same thing for my 3560.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So its not just me that has this problem. Good to know.

Several years ago, the first time I took the loader off my 3301, couldn't for the life of me get the lines back on.

I look in, see the detent, say to the boy, "Boy! Go get dad a hammer and screwdriver."

2 minutes later (because like a smart guy, I looked right at it) I'm walking blindly to my basement sink with eyes full of oil. It actually blew the contact out of my left eye.

So now if the loader has been off more than a couple days I just come ready with tools. I reckon cracking a line would be better?

I mean, after i shut down, I move the loader stick around and let her settle, but if its been a couple days they aint popping right back on. Same thing for my 3560.

Moving the lever does nothing if theres no place for the pressure to go...

Dan

 

[RCW]

I’ve had to relieve the pressure on the loader side several times over the years.

I used a piece of wood dowel, hammer and a rag over it.

The piercing of the skin by hydraulic fluid is very real. A friend got a nasty injury in his hand. He knew better but it happened….

 

[TheOldHokie]

I’ve had to relieve the pressure on the loader side several times over the years.

I used a piece of wood dowel, hammer and a rag over it.

The piercing of the skin by hydraulic fluid is very real. A friend got a nasty injury in his hand. He knew better but it happened….

One of the reasons some people pay more for connect under pressure couplers.

Dan

 

[Kennyd4110]

I reckon cracking a line would be better?

It is better IMHO because it is more controlled. Smacking a poppet with a hammer and/or a 'bolt' or metal rod as suggested above is awkward and you risk damage to the couplers.

There are tools made for this, they are pricey and coupler specific:

Hydraulic Quick Coupler Pressure Relief Tool | TractorReliefTool.com

Hydraulic Quick Coupling Pressure Release Relief Decompression Tool for Tractors. Modern Waite hydraulic decompression tool Hydraulic pressure relief tool

www.tractorrelieftool.com

We used to sell a version for male's, but we had issues with the manufacturer and stopped carrying them. We are working on a new universal version however.