We just inherited a L235 when we went to start it, it would barely turn over. So we went to jump it and the after a min of no luck found that the jumper cables were reversed. Fixed that issue but while jumping it we now get nothing, no partial turn over, no click. There are no lights and the glow plug indicator has not worked in years. I am guessing that we fried a thing or two but I don’t even know where to start looking. I would appreciate some suggestions of where to look. Am headed out now to get new battery to start with.
Red goes on Positive........
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Most likely fried the fusible link. It should be down by the starter.
It looks like a piece of fat wire on a smaller wire, or just a fat spot in the wire.
It will be in the second to the largest wire, not the main battery cable wire.
It looks like a piece of fat wire on a smaller wire, or just a fat spot in the wire.
It will be in the second to the largest wire, not the main battery cable wire.
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Thanks for the info. You were indeed correct. After two cans of engine degreaser and some decent water pressure I was able to get enough of the muck off to find just what you were taking about. Mine is actually a looped wire arrangement and in this case the wire was burned in two. I had looked for wiring specs and found some that show the fusible link but nothing to tell me what amp rating it was. So now I have a few more questions I need assistance with.
1. What is the amp rating for the link?
2. Does this look like a factory link? (See Image)
3. Either way can I get one at an auto parts store or do I need to order from tractor parts supplier?
4. In the short term would there be any problem if I just connect the two wires (and be sure not to repeat the original issue)?
1. What is the amp rating for the link?
2. Does this look like a factory link? (See Image)
3. Either way can I get one at an auto parts store or do I need to order from tractor parts supplier?
4. In the short term would there be any problem if I just connect the two wires (and be sure not to repeat the original issue)?
Most of the fusible links I've run across--after failure, the only time you pay attention to them--are nothing more than a piece (loop, in your case) of plain vanilla SAE-rated stranded automotive-grade wire of a particular size.
Try carefully peeling off the insulation and using a wire gauge or strippers to determine the gauge (size) of the wire and try replacing by removing the old wire from the connector and replacing with new.
You may find the wire-end connector in the plastic housing can either be salvaged or is a standard plug-together fitting. Worst case if you're not picky just cut out the entire connector and replace it with the correct size wire you've determined is needed. You can get as fancy as you wish using any connector or even copper lugs soldered to the harness and to the replacement link with bolts to connect. Use AntiOx and tape well.
You can also wire in a replacement 'real' fuse holder if you can figure out or guess what size fuse to use.
When I've had to do this just tape it well with quality electrical tape and secure with a cable-tie with a piece of plastic cut from an oil bottle (yellow for visibility) labeled 'fuse link'.
Should work fine. A lot of folks don't replace the fusible link but I kinda think it's there for a reason.
Try carefully peeling off the insulation and using a wire gauge or strippers to determine the gauge (size) of the wire and try replacing by removing the old wire from the connector and replacing with new.
You may find the wire-end connector in the plastic housing can either be salvaged or is a standard plug-together fitting. Worst case if you're not picky just cut out the entire connector and replace it with the correct size wire you've determined is needed. You can get as fancy as you wish using any connector or even copper lugs soldered to the harness and to the replacement link with bolts to connect. Use AntiOx and tape well.
You can also wire in a replacement 'real' fuse holder if you can figure out or guess what size fuse to use.
When I've had to do this just tape it well with quality electrical tape and secure with a cable-tie with a piece of plastic cut from an oil bottle (yellow for visibility) labeled 'fuse link'.
Should work fine. A lot of folks don't replace the fusible link but I kinda think it's there for a reason.
I used to work in a parts store and back then we had small rolls of different gauge/amperage fuse wire. Its not a regular piece of wire.
I would prob just wire in a regular inline fuse holder or breaker.how big is the wire going to it, by the wire size you can pretty closely guesstimate its designed amp load
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I would prob just wire in a regular inline fuse holder or breaker.how big is the wire going to it, by the wire size you can pretty closely guesstimate its designed amp load
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
This is interesting and I'd like to hear thoughts from others.
Keep in mind I'm not arguing specifics or any particular comments posted, just curious.
This first time a fusible link failed I got interested and tried to figure out what was involved before replacing.
I've been to NAPA and looked at their "fuse link" wire and held it up alongside SAE automotive wire and even measured the diameter and counted the strands. Some of the links have eyes, lugs, or connectors installed, but the wire itself appears to be just plain wire.
And I dug around automotive electrical shops--now just about a thing of the past--and asked questions to 'The Old Guys', discounting that now I seem to be one.
The labeled 'fuse wire' in little snippets cost ten times as much as wire on a 100-ft spool and there was no apparent difference.
What I heard repeatedly was that in an electrical system the fusible link was nothing more than a smaller guage wire incorporated into the circuit designed to purposely burn out before something more delicate (meters, gauges, switch contacts) did. And this allowed the repairer to first look at one known spot in the circuit before having to search the entire harness looking for possibly multiple failure points.
Unless a voltage regulator fails miserably, a battery is backwards, or a dead short occurs the link should last forever. Perhaps in a vehicle a locked-up blower motor might fail a link.
Based on this I've never used a labled 'fuse link' and instead just used a smaller gauge SAE wire a couple inches long, trying to get as close to original size as I can. Works like a charm with never any kind of electrical problem or failure as a result.
If an individual uses the plain wire replacement method I've had better luck using crimp connectors than soldering. Soldering tends to be inflexible and break in automotive applications. If using barrel-type crimp connectors after installing drip nail polish into the connector ends repeatedly to seal from weather.
Keep in mind I'm not arguing specifics or any particular comments posted, just curious.
This first time a fusible link failed I got interested and tried to figure out what was involved before replacing.
I've been to NAPA and looked at their "fuse link" wire and held it up alongside SAE automotive wire and even measured the diameter and counted the strands. Some of the links have eyes, lugs, or connectors installed, but the wire itself appears to be just plain wire.
And I dug around automotive electrical shops--now just about a thing of the past--and asked questions to 'The Old Guys', discounting that now I seem to be one.
The labeled 'fuse wire' in little snippets cost ten times as much as wire on a 100-ft spool and there was no apparent difference.
What I heard repeatedly was that in an electrical system the fusible link was nothing more than a smaller guage wire incorporated into the circuit designed to purposely burn out before something more delicate (meters, gauges, switch contacts) did. And this allowed the repairer to first look at one known spot in the circuit before having to search the entire harness looking for possibly multiple failure points.
Unless a voltage regulator fails miserably, a battery is backwards, or a dead short occurs the link should last forever. Perhaps in a vehicle a locked-up blower motor might fail a link.
Based on this I've never used a labled 'fuse link' and instead just used a smaller gauge SAE wire a couple inches long, trying to get as close to original size as I can. Works like a charm with never any kind of electrical problem or failure as a result.
If an individual uses the plain wire replacement method I've had better luck using crimp connectors than soldering. Soldering tends to be inflexible and break in automotive applications. If using barrel-type crimp connectors after installing drip nail polish into the connector ends repeatedly to seal from weather.
I spent a little time in auto-electric (wow, a million years ago), and I was always told by our Master Mechanics that fusible link wire is a different alloy than straight copper wire. It LOOKS like straight copper, but it IS different.
It's designed to melt (open) at a certain temperature, not designed for any stretching or tension application. The link wire size itself determines the capacity. When that rated capacity is exceeded for a certain minimum period of time, the wire heats up and melts.
Also keep in mind that any fuse, if stressed close to capacity often enough, will be 'delicate' and can open at a point far below its rated capacity.
Hope that helps here.
It's designed to melt (open) at a certain temperature, not designed for any stretching or tension application. The link wire size itself determines the capacity. When that rated capacity is exceeded for a certain minimum period of time, the wire heats up and melts.
Also keep in mind that any fuse, if stressed close to capacity often enough, will be 'delicate' and can open at a point far below its rated capacity.
Hope that helps here.
fuse links are different alloy matieral. figure the amp needed and get
a auto reset circuit breaker instead. it will reset on its own when
problem is one. hope this helps,keith
a auto reset circuit breaker instead. it will reset on its own when
problem is one. hope this helps,keith
Thanks for posting this link lsmurphy. After I get done with replacing the rear diff I am going to do some rewiring and this looks like a great addition.
Thanks everyone for the help. Went with the circuit breaker Ismurphy posted and it worked great! She now turns over just fine. Now on to draining the fuel system and changing the oil and then maybe we will be in business.