Rear Working lights on a B2650 with Cab

[Dae06]

I'm cutting off the factory rear work light connector off since they are hard to find. The wires are "black" and "brown with a black stripe". I do not have the switch yet to test which one is positive and which one is negative. Anyone here know?

Thanks

 

[Roadworthy]

Usually solid black is ground. It's easy enough to find out. Use your meter or a twelve volt test light. Ground one side of the meter or your light. Turn on the key and touch the other lead to the wires in question. If the meter indicates or your lamp lights that is the hot wire. By the way, note the current limitation on that circuit. I think it's fused at ten amps on my L series tractor. That would be about 120 watts at the maximum and I'd go with half that for safety. The wires are pretty small.

 

[Dae06]

Thanks, but I don’t have a switch in the cab yet (on order) so there is no power to the rear light wires right now. I don’t have a lot at wire back there to spare so I don’t want to hook them up incorrectly and have to cut more off to do it a second time.

 

[Orange1forme]

Thanks, but I don***8217;t have a switch in the cab yet (on order) so there is no power to the rear light wires right now. I don***8217;t have a lot at wire back there to spare so I don***8217;t want to hook them up incorrectly and have to cut more off to do it a second time.

You could use the front switch to check, just swap wires at the dash.

I'll grab my WSM and check.

"B" is ground.

"Br/B" goes to "P/B" on the switch. Positive/red on battery.

 

[Dae06]

This to me says the Brown/black is positive. Can any of you that know more about schematics confirm this?

Thanks

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, I'll confirm, yes, Brn/B is the feed or +12 from the switch.
Solid Black is always ground on Kubota tractors(well, so far......)

 

[Dae06]

OK, I'll confirm, yes, Brn/B is the feed or +12 from the switch.
Solid Black is always ground on Kubota tractors(well, so far......)

Good deal I’ll wire them up.

 

[Dae06]

You could use the front switch to check, just swap wires at the dash.

I'll grab my WSM and check.

"B" is ground.

"Br/B" goes to "P/B" on the switch. Positive/red on battery.

Good call on using the front switch. You have been completely correct!!

1. Blue wire at the switch is positive.
2. Brown wire with black stripe to the rear working lights are positive.
3. Black wire is ground
4. And yes, you can use the front light switch to test your rear working lights (like I had to do).

I hope this helps anyone down the road who may come across this post.

 

[mikester]

Great time to buy a multimeter with a continuity tester function. Lets you measure and test your connections, grounds etc!

 

[Dae06]

Great time to buy a multimeter with a continuity tester function. Lets you measure and test your connections, grounds etc!

I do have a multimeter, but I am also a self proclaimed electrical idiot.***129322;
It scares me (mostly AC) when the professionals say, “In theory, you shouldn’t get a shock” and “1 amp can kill you”.

I did get it figured out and got the lights hooked up and ready to go. My switch should be here Monday.

 

[Orange1forme]

I do have a multimeter, but I am also a self proclaimed electrical idiot.***129322;
It scares me (mostly AC) when the professionals say, “In theory, you shouldn’t get a shock” and “1 amp can kill you”.

I did get it figured out and got the lights hooked up and ready to go. My switch should be here Monday.

DC can be even deadlier!!!