Rear Valves - Salesman's Got No Clue

[PaulL]

Or even simpler, swap the hose side couplings.

If you swap the hose side, would that mean you'd then also have to swap every other implement you buy? (Assuming here that there's some sort of standard).

There's something wrong with this story somehow - it feels a bit like treating the symptom not the cause. I'm assuming the valves would have come from factory with the fittings the right way round, so does that mean they put it in backwards? Or do they attach the fittings to the valve at the dealer, and just fitted them backwards?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you swap the hose side, would that mean you'd then also have to swap every other implement you buy? (Assuming here that there's some sort of standard).

There's something wrong with this story somehow - it feels a bit like treating the symptom not the cause. I'm assuming the valves would have come from factory with the fittings the right way round, so does that mean they put it in backwards? Or do they attach the fittings to the valve at the dealer, and just fitted them backwards?

The dealer sets up the valves and fittings.

I agree with swapping the fittings on the tractor side is the best, unless the lines on the cylinder are what is actually in the wrong orientation.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The number 1 problem here if I remember correctly is that you have a male and female ends on the rear couplers at the tractor end. THAT IS WRONG AND NOT INDUSTRY STANDARD. The female ends are suppose to be mounted on the tractor and the male ends are on the hoses. Mark them with colored zip ties or colored tape. Look at you loader hoses, they are marked with colored tape to keep the fluid direction as it should be after coupling-uncoupling.

This is such an easy fix it is sad that this has gone on for so long.

Your dealer is an idiot.

Put all female couplers on the tractor and all the male ends on the hoses. Then it is easy to simply switch the hoses around if you desire.

My recommendation is to change the couplers so that they are set up in a std industry way. Get the direction of the cylinders so that they go down when the control levers are pushed forward. Mark the hoses and couplers with colored zip ties or colored electrical tape.

As well as I agree that the dealer should take care of this, he is obviously an idiot and I would not let them touch my tractor. Fix it yourself, it may take all of an hour at most.

Get it right and go do some work-move on.

 

[PaulL]

The number 1 problem here if I remember correctly is that you have a male and female ends on the rear couplers at the tractor end. THAT IS WRONG AND NOT INDUSTRY STANDARD.

Good point, that's definitely how it is on loaders, and I'm pretty sure I've never seen rear couplings that are a mix either. Did the dealer mix male and female for some reason of his own? Does seem very unusual. On my BX loader the male are on the tractor. But I'm pretty sure at the rear I've always seen female on the tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Good point, that's definitely how it is on loaders, and I'm pretty sure I've never seen rear couplings that are a mix either. Did the dealer mix male and female for some reason of his own? Does seem very unusual. On my BX loader the male are on the tractor. But I'm pretty sure at the rear I've always seen female on the tractor.

Look at any and all Kubota tractors, or any utility tractor for that matter that come from the factory with rear remotes, ALL of them have female couplers for the rear remote outlets. From subcompact machines all the way up to 660HP articulated AG tractors, ALL have female couplers mounted on the tractor.

For his dealer to suggest changing the valve simply confirms how incompetent that he is.

My example of the loader couplers was using the color matching of the different lines to always get them connected in the proper order.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks to both of you.

I spoke with the salesman, service manager and service technician on speakerphone for half an hour yesterday. I told them how surprised I am that they can be in business for so many decades yet have this problem. I was told that no one EVER puts a Float Detent Valve on the top cylinder of a top-and-tilt setup and that the reason it's installed this way is because that's what the instructions stated and due to "the vanes" in the valve. I explained that if one swaps the hoses, down becomes up and up becomes down and float is the next thing one hits when pushing the valve DOWN. It was like talking to a brick wall.

As for switching the fittings or hoses, it's just swapping them. The hoses for this problem go to the top link hydraulic cylinder, so it wouldn't cause a problem connecting to implements.

Here's a photo:

 

[Duke]

Make the rear remotes/valve levers work the same as your 3pt hitch and FEL.....
Forward = DOWN/FLOAT
Back = UP
Makes operation more common across the board.
Also, I believe ALL valves on tractors are spring center which is industry standard for motion control unless some custom DIY application.

I envy those of you that even have rear remotes.
I***8217;ve had the kits for my B2650 Cab on order for 4 months now..... crickets.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Meantime, have a look at that photo. I used my tractor and box scraper for the first time yesterday. All I did was drag the box along a trail, raising and lowering it a few times where the drag of the box overcame the pull of the tractor.

When I got to the end, I saw that the lower left connector had snapped off, due to the QH15 (I think) putting too much stress on the hose and connector.

Really? What kind of dealer would install something so poorly?

 

[PaulL]

Snapped off meaning it came disconnected, or snapped off meaning broken? If it came disconnected, it's possible you hadn't connected it properly. If it snapped off....surely the hoses shouldn't have any load at all on them, let alone enough to snap a fitting.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Snapped off, broken, failed, destroyed...