Rear Valves - Salesman's Got No Clue

[Jimbabwe]

Lots of good stuff on this forum about valves.

My Kubota salesman told me that to run my (planned) rotary mower and (planned) box scraper with hydraulically-retractable rippers, I should have the Spring Center Valves for my rear remotes NOT Float Detent Valves.

I disagree, based on what I've read here and based on videos I've seen, especially the one from Messick's.

Who is correct?

Thanks,
Jim
Trying to buy an L3901DT
(but it's tough when the dealer's salesman doesn't know anything)

 

[PaulL]

I thought float detent were for things you'd want to be able to float - so a hydraulic top link on a box blade you'd want to float sometimes. A spring detent is for something you want to adjust then have the valve snap back off - hydraulic rippers maybe fit that. So maybe you need one or two of each?

having said that, I'd have thought a float detent does everything a spring valve does, plus it can float. If you don't push past the detent, doesn't it work exactly like a spring valve?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Sure does.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks. So, for a box, I am sure I will want to float it, as well as possibly float the tilt.

For a mower, I'd want to float it, as well, unless I'm mowing perfectly flat land.

My land is very un-flat.

Since a float detent valve can do everything a spring center detent valve can do, plus more, three rear remotes all float detent, right?

 

[majorwager]

As a rule, the float/ detent valve is only available in the second position.

Any quality mower, finish or rotary should be outfitted w/ floating linkage from the manufacturer.The

EDIT:

Then again, some rules change over time

 

[Jimbabwe]

I see the RCR2660 mower I plan to buy does have a floating top link, meaning I could run it without Top-N-Tilt.

However, the HR2572 box scraper does not have a floating top link, so I will need Top-N-Tilt and the Floating Detent Valves to be able to float up and down and left and right.

I have a choice of valves for all three positions (from the Kubota site):
PLUS 3RD POSITION VALVE KIT (CHOICE OF VALVE FOR 1ST, 2ND AND 3RD POSITION)

 

[TripleR]

I have an RCR2672 with the floating link, but really wish I had a floating valve as my land is pretty hilly. Yes, you will need it for your box scraper, but consider the one with hydraulic scraifiers, I sure like my HR3584.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks. That's good info. I'm getting 3 float valves.

I'm also getting the HR2572 or HRL3578 box scraper, depending on whether I get an L3901 or L4701.

 

[Jimbabwe]

So I took delivery of my tractor yesterday.

If I push forward on one of my rear remote valve levers, the mower rises.

If I push further forward on that same lever, the mower suddenly drops to the ground.

That must be the float position.

Should pushing the lever forward LOWER the mower rather than RAISE it?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So I took delivery of my tractor yesterday.

If I push forward on one of my rear remote valve levers, the mower rises.

If I push further forward on that same lever, the mower suddenly drops to the ground.

That must be the float position.

Should pushing the lever forward LOWER the mower rather than RAISE it?

Lowering the implement should be next to the detent for the float position. Swap your hoses around and you should be good to go. A 30 second fix.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks. Will do. Youda thunk the mechanic at the dealer would've known to do that.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Well, can't switch hoses. One is a female connector and the other a male. I'd have to unscrew the adapters and change them. Not my job on a tractor straight from the dealer which installed these remotes and hoses!

Which direction should the rear remotes move the implements?

For example, pull back to lower, push forward to raise?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well, can't switch hoses. One is a female connector and the other a male. I'd have to unscrew the adapters and change them. Not my job on a tractor straight from the dealer which installed these remotes and hoses!

Guess then you have 2 options:
Load it back on a trailer and haul it back to the dealer and have them fix it.

Just break out a coupole wrenches and swap the things out and move on!

 

[Jimbabwe]

True, but there are three other options:

Get the dealer to come pick it up, bring it back to the shop, fix it, and return it;

Get the dealer to send someone to do the job that shoulda been done in the first place;

Get the dealer to come pick it up and cancel the purchase.

What about those lever directions? Any advice?

 

[PaulL]

On tractor remotes I think there's not as much of a standard as you'd think. Green tractors seem to work differently than others in many instances. Anyway, for me, forward (towards the front of the tractor) would be down, backward would be up.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Down "should" always be next to the float position. So I believe that is forward for down.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks, Paul, and thanks, MtnViewRanch (you were posting as I was posting!)

Reviewing my Operator's Manual, I see that pushing forward on the 3-point hitch position control lever lowers the implement and that pushing all the way forward puts the 3-point hitch in float.

That should be the same way my rear remote float detent valve works, but, it was hooked up backward by the dealer.

I agree. Down SHOULD be next to float!

 

[Jimbabwe]

The dealer says this regarding the backwards operation of the top link float detent valve:

"To fix the problem on the Top Link, the Service Manager recommends going back removing the Float and putting a regular Detent Valve back in it place and then that will fix the issue of the reverse operation on that valve. He stated the way the (Float) valve is cut with the vanes reversing the lever position would be the only way it would work on the tractor."

Am I being fooled? Could the male and female connectors at the back of the tractor be swapped so that the hose which now goes to the UP side of the top link hydraulics cylinder goes to the DOWN side, and vice versa?

Or, does the dealer know something those on this forum do not?

Seems simple to me, but maybe I'm missing something...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Could the male and female connectors at the back of the tractor be swapped so that the hose which now goes to the UP side of the top link hydraulics cylinder goes to the DOWN side, and vice versa?

Or even simpler, swap the hose side couplings.

 

[Jimbabwe]

Thanks, Wolfman. I'll have a look at them when I get home.