Rear half shaft oil seal replacement.

Rob

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Nov 22, 2009
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Leafy England....
Hi all
i need to replace the rear axle half shaft oil seals on my B7100, i have the seals ready but just want to check if my install method is ok.
On other tractors i have had that needed the same job doing i all needed to do was to pry the old seal out of the casing and off the shaft and then just lube and fit the new seals with a suitable size drift or similar, job done, no need to split cases etc.
Will this work on my b7100 or do i need to split the case to get it out.
any help would be great.

rob
 

Ach

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Kubota B6000 DT with B219 Loader
Mar 1, 2011
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Big Island, Hawaii, USA
That's how my b6000 works. Of course remember to drain the hydro fluid first, and might as well clean the screen while your at it.

Just make sure the axle doesn't taper. The yanmar I have does, and required removal of the axle pumpkin to replace that seal. That's a much more involved job.

-A
 

Lucky

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B7100dt and b6001
Feb 17, 2009
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Northwoods, WI
On my b6001 I had to go from the inside out. Had to take it all apart, replace the bearings and the seals. I think your b7100 parts diagram will show it that way as well. If you find an easier way let me know.
 

Rob

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Leafy England....
thanks guys, i compared diagrams of my b6000 and the B7100 and they both look like a similar setup, so then, i'm going to try the "pry it out" method they are worn and leaking so it doent matter if they get mashed up a bit, just need to be carefull that i dont damage the casing faces etc.
if any knows for deffo which method to use, please reply back asap if possible.

thanks
rob
 

kubotasam

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Alfred Maine
I looked in my workshop manuals. It does not address this exactly(at least that I could find in a few minutes). Howere from the parts diagram and looking at my B7100 it sure looks like you can just pry out the old seal and tap in a new one. I think I would try to find a piece of pipe the correct diameter to use to drive the new seal in.
 

Lil Foot

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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
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Did anyone ever confirm the method for changing these seals? In the parts list it appears the "pry it out method" should work, but it'd be nice to know for sure.... my tractor is 150 miles from here, (and my parts source) and has developed a rear axle seal leak. If I can replace them from the outside, I can do it up in the mountains.... if I have to disassemble the rear end, I will have to haul the tractor back here.... a real pain if not necessary.
 

Rob

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Leafy England....
thats really mad , i was just thinking about this thread earlier today,
It was a while ago when i dealt with this issue, it was a very straight forward repair.
Apart from the draining down of the rear axle oil which is allways a bit messy;)
( well with me that is), job only took a short while to do both sides.
I just carefull pryed out the old one, cleaned out the recess and tapped the new ones back in with a wooden drift, job done , no nasty oil leaks to be found now.:D

hope that helps.

rob
 

Lil Foot

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Thank you sir, that is exactly what I was hoping to hear!
 

dovermiller

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Kubota B7100
May 20, 2013
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Milwaukee, WI
I am in the process of doing it right now. Obviously you have to crack the tractor in half, but you do not need to open the trans case. Have fun, I sure am! :eek:
 

Rob

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Leafy England....
I am in the process of doing it right now. Obviously you have to crack the tractor in half, but you do not need to open the trans case. Have fun, I sure am! :eek:
all that should be required is that you jack one side up, remove the wheel, and possibly drain down some of the axle fliud or just catch it under the casing .
as the seal is a push fit from outside of casing you need only carefully pry it out, it pops out without to much force if you pry it from several point around the seal.

tap new one in,job done. 1 hour max( inc tea breaks);):D
 

Lil Foot

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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
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all that should be required is that you jack one side up, remove the wheel, and possibly drain down some of the axle fliud or just catch it under the casing .
as the seal is a push fit from outside of casing you need only carefully pry it out, it pops out without to much force if you pry it from several point around the seal.

tap new one in,job done. 1 hour max( inc tea breaks);):D
Agreed, changing mine was easy & quick, worst part was cleaning the area around the seals first.