rear blade- 6 way or 3 way

[Orange1forme]

New to the tractor game.

In looking at rear blades, there are many mfrs of a standard 3 way back blade, but only a few mfrs of 6 way.

Is the 3 way good enough?

Is the 6 way overkill?

Thoughts, experiences recommendations.

B2650

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

New to the tractor game.

In looking at rear blades, there are many mfrs of a standard 3 way back blade, but only a few mfrs of 6 way.

Is the 3 way good enough?

Is the 6 way overkill?

Thoughts, experiences recommendations.

Matters on what tractor your using it on and if you have the hydraulic outputs to support it.

A six way will do some neat tasks, but it's too much blade for most tractors.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There are many 6 way blades that are not hydraulic actuated weighing 500-600lbs. Just an example. Most of the well known manufacturers have 3-5 different levels of rear blades ranging from the 3 way blades that weigh about 300lbs up to cat 3 6 way all hydraulic function blades weighing around 14-1500lbs.

My belief is that as long as you have a full cat 1 sized machine, there is a 6 way blade for your machine.

A 6 way blade simply offers so much more grading capabilities over any std 3 way blade.

For the OP, what tractor are you considering a rear blade for?

 

[SRG]

There are many 6 way blades that are not hydraulic actuated weighing 500-600lbs. Just an example. Most of the well known manufacturers have 3-5 different levels of rear blades ranging from the 3 way blades that weigh about 300lbs up to cat 3 6 way all hydraulic function blades weighing around 14-1500lbs.

My belief is that as long as you have a full cat 1 sized machine, there is a 6 way blade for your machine.

A 6 way blade simply offers so much more grading capabilities over any std 3 way blade.

For the OP, what tractor are you considering a rear blade for?

Yes, i agree, and no offense intended, but 3-way vs 6-way, is a poor way, to judge a rear blades capability, vs machine size. There are just too many factors, to narrow it down to those 2 specs.

 

[Orange1forme]

Added tractor to original post.

Not looking at hydraulic, simple manual is fine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

MtnViewRanch,
Just based on the example blade that you posted, his tractor is way too low of HP for that blade.

Even this smaller blade is still too much for his tractor.

https://www.everythingattachments.c...Blade-for-Compact-Tractors-p/eta-value-sb.htm

I stick by my statement that too small a tractor won't run a six way blade very well.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Added tractor to original post.

Go to User CP and put your tractor in your profile to save some abuse down the line.

 

[skeets]

6 ways are nice no doubt, but the cost of one over the other and how often you are going to use it and what you are using it for all play into making that choice. If you are doing driveway,or road maintenance after the winter then a box blade might suit you better. If you are just moving some snow or leveling out a pile of gravel then a simple 3 way will do everything you need,, plan on cleaning out drainage ditches when you have to angle the blade edge up or down then the 6 way. Please tell us what you want/need to do that will help us to help you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

MtnViewRanch,
Just based on the example blade that you posted, his tractor is way too low of HP for that blade.

Even this smaller blade is still too much for his tractor.

https://www.everythingattachments.c...Blade-for-Compact-Tractors-p/eta-value-sb.htm

I stick by my statement that too small a tractor won't run a six way blade very well.

I agree that I had linked to the wrong sized blade, my bad. I had actually wanted to link to the unit that you have linked to. In my opinion, that blade would work fine behind his now know B2650.



First off, when I posted the size of his tractor was not known, to me anyway.

While he has a smaller tractor and offsetting very far could be a problem, he could make use of the additional tilt of the blade for making simple drainage ditches. If he has his tires filled, that would go a long way towards providing additional weight for better use of the rear blade.

All variables that can make a difference with how well an implement can be made use of. When a person leaves this info out of their post, the field is left wide open for different types of responses that may or may not help them out.

He has corrected that, hopefully he will get some more information that helps him make an informed decision.

Good luck to the OP in his decision.

 

[Freeheeler]

MtnViewRanch,
Just based on the example blade that you posted, his tractor is way too low of HP for that blade.

Even this smaller blade is still too much for his tractor.

https://www.everythingattachments.c...Blade-for-Compact-Tractors-p/eta-value-sb.htm

I stick by my statement that too small a tractor won't run a six way blade very well.

I've got the same B2650 as the OP and was looking at the EA 5 ft 6-way blade that is in the link you posted. It's only 290 lb, much lighter than my box blade. I'm curious as to why that tractor is too small for this 6 way blade, while it sounds like you are saying a 3 way version of it would be fine. Can you explain why more hp is needed for the extra adjustability of the blade? Is it because of the offset causing more leveraged drag? I'm guessing I'm not the only one wondering?

 

[dirtydeed]

Personally, I wouldn't go less than a 6' rear blade behind a B2650. Once you angle a 5 footer, you won't even be covering your tracks. A 5 footer would be a waste of time and $.

I have an old (8N) 6 foot rear blade. No problem at all behind the B2650.

edit: wouldn't

 

[Jchonline]

I have a hydraulic angle blade coupled with a Top and Tilt kit on mine. Yes I will have to manually swing the boom if necessary, but all other functions are hydraulic. This was the best compromise for me.

 

[Jchonline]

Personally, I would go less than a 6' rear blade behind a B2650. Once you angle a 5 footer, you won't even be covering your tracks. A 5 footer would be a waste of time and $.

I have an old (8N) 6 foot rear blade. No problem at all behind the B2650.

Agree. The best way to do it is figure out the max angle you will use the blade at, then make sure that width is wider than your rears. In most cases this is at least 1 foot wider.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Can you explain why more hp is needed for the extra adjustability of the blade? Is it because of the offset causing more leveraged drag? I'm guessing I'm not the only one wondering?

Yes drag and the lack of tractor weight.

It will work, it's just not going to work up to the potential that it should.

 

[Orange1forme]

First off, when I posted the size of his tractor was not known, to me anyway.


All variables that can make a difference with how well an implement can be made use of. When a person leaves this info out of their post, the field is left wide open for different types of responses that may or may not help them out.

He has corrected that, hopefully he will get some more information that helps him make an informed decision.

I will do better.

I have added what I could to my profile.

Thanks!!!

 

[Freeheeler]

Personally, I wouldn't go less than a 6' rear blade behind a B2650. Once you angle a 5 footer, you won't even be covering your tracks. A 5 footer would be a waste of time and $.

I have an old (8N) 6 foot rear blade. No problem at all behind the B2650.

edit: wouldn't

Yeah, sorry, I meant 6ft, typing in a hurry again. I'm more concerned about offsetting and angling to mend ditches than I am about covering my tracks though. I may just see how much damage I can do with the box tilted as much as possible.
Thanks for the replies and my apologies to Orange1 for hyjacking your thread.

 

[Orange1forme]

Yeah, sorry, I meant 6ft, typing in a hurry again. I'm more concerned about offsetting and angling to mend ditches than I am about covering my tracks though. I may just see how much damage I can do with the box tilted as much as possible.
Thanks for the replies and my apologies to Orange1 for hyjacking your thread.

No worries, I would like the same info.

So no additional info on the subject?

With weight being a deciding factor, how big of an issue is the weight difference between the sizes?
290 lbs for 5'
325 lbs for 6'
342 lbs for 7'

 

[SRG]

No worries, I would like the same info.

So no additional info on the subject?

With weight being a deciding factor, how big of an issue is the weight difference between the sizes?
290 lbs for 5'
325 lbs for 6'
342 lbs for 7'

Those weight differences are negligible. Your machine will lift and maneuver with any of them, like it wasn't even there, as far as the weight of the blades is concerned.
The width of, and how it (the blade) is utilized, is what should be considered, vs weight of the tractor, and angle of blade vs bite into whatever material. It's purely a leverage issue.

Don't fall into analysis paralysis, by splitting hairs on a spread of 20-30lbs across those blades.

 

[bucktail]

No worries, I would like the same info.

So no additional info on the subject?

With weight being a deciding factor, how big of an issue is the weight difference between the sizes?
290 lbs for 5'
325 lbs for 6'
342 lbs for 7'

It isn't the weight of the blade that is the issue; it's the weight of the tractor or rather the lack thereof that's the issue. When you're running one side deeper and further forward than the other it puts the a side load on the tractor and will push it around.

 

[D2Cat]

Orange1forme and Freeheeler, what would work good for you guys to to see if a neighbor or friend has a blade that is 6' or 7' and borrow it.

Play with it a few hours and you'll quickly realize how the tractor is influenced by the offset length of the blade. Then you will have first hand knowledge of what to look for and how long will actually work for your tractor.