RCK 60-23BX mower Belt Replacement

[tinkerwitheverything]

Curious to see how many people have replaced there mower deck belt with a aftermarket one. And what brand did you go with. How well is it standing up. I called Kubota to get a replacement belt for my mower deck and I can't believe the price that's being asked for this belt. Kubota # K5763-34710. If anyone has replaced there's with a different brand could you please let me know what you did,.

 

[PaulL]

$130 at Messicks https://www.messicks.com/part/K5763-34712?vendorcode=KU (the original belt has been replaced by a new model number).

I see after market ones around $50-60. So that's a meaningful saving. https://www.ebay.com/itm/111625072833

This looked like better quality at $95. https://www.mowmore.com/products/replaces-kubota-belt-k5763-34710-k5763-34712

And this looked potentially very low quality for $24. https://www.gprindustrial.com/en/be...34710-kubota-rck60b-24g-aftermarket-belt.html

I would probably buy the OEM one personally. But I don't really see what can go wrong with an after market one, other than it having a shorter life. It's not really going to break the mower, and it's unlikely to hurt you unless you're exceptionally unlucky - it's just going to wear or break the belt. At $24 it'd have to be a lot shorter life before it'd be a big problem - you could buy 5 of them for the price of the OEM one.

 

[tinkerwitheverything]

In case your wondering why I'm asking North of the border prices are nuts. Priced out from 2 different Dealers $279. & $ 306. for OEM. Even tried after market and to get them to me still just around $250 with shipping and fees . So this is why I'am asking. Thanks for the replies .
Of course I'd rather stick with oem .Mine is still working after 9 yrs but is showing it's age and would like to replace it soon.

 

[FattyArbuckle]

Last alternative would be to get two single V belts from an industrial supply house near you. Make sure 2 belts are from same manufacturer to minimize stretch differences. I've done this on other equipment. Ultimately comes down to short vs long cost & convenience.
Installing 2 belts can be harder than installing a single belt.
FYI I've found when installing a mower belt put it onto one of the driven pulleys last - not the idler. That has been easiest for me.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

kub cda site says $253(
K576334712,and my local dealer HONOURS that price.

 

[MOOTS]

I’ve had good luck with stens belts on the 20 or so mowers at work I keep running. We have Kubota, Toro, grasshopper and Scag.

I’m setup as a dealer, so I get them a bit cheaper than list price.

 

[DustyRusty]

The belt on my BX22 mower deck lasted almost 20 years until I sold the tractor with the mower deck. I would remove the belt every fall and reinstall it in the spring.

 

[mikester]

My K dealer has everything on the shelf and I know it will fit. They even have parts in stock for my 30 year old Land Pride RFM. I managed to break a spindle last year after nailing a buried rock while cutting around old fence lines. I called the dealer had a brand new spindle assembly in hand the next day.

Will your aftermarket supplier be around that long and give you that kind of service and support? I've had no quality or service life issues with my OEM K belts and parts.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm 253/24 is close to 10,so TEN belts vs one 'OEM' belt. Since K doesn't make the belts, an 'aftermarket' one might just be made by the original manufacturer.
I've had great success with 'Made in India' blue belts from Princess Auto, even on one of my loaner riders that does 1.5 acres of ROUGH 'lawn'. The one on the forklift (PITA to change...) has lasted 6x longer than the 'Gates' one.

 

[Henro]

The belt on my BX22 mower deck lasted almost 20 years until I sold the tractor with the mower deck. I would remove the belt every fall and reinstall it in the spring.

Like DustyRusty, My BX mower belt also lasted nearly 20 years. When I replaced it, it had actually separated and was working as two independent V belts (which are normally joined together). BUT still working.

I went with the OEM belt as a replacement. Costs a bit more...but...I figured it was worth it to me if it performs as well as the first one. Time will tell the replacement is as good as the original. (I hope!)(given my age...)

I never removed my belt over winter but used to release the tension spring...but that got old and I probably did not do that for the last ten years or so...

 

[rsky]

I am trying to install a new belt on my kubota rck60b23bx 60 inch belly mower and need some expert advice. If I leave the tensioner spring on then it seems impossible to get the belt onto the last pulley. If I remove the tensioner spring then the belt slips on easily but reattaching the tensioner spring is impossible, at least for my muscles. Got to be a better way? Any pointers will be most appreciated!

 

[DustyRusty]

Set the tension to the lowest position where it is still attached, and then using a flat bladed screwdriver of about 20" long, pry the new belt over and onto the pulley. Once installed it will just need the tension adjusted.
I purchased a aftermarket belt to replace the original belt on my LandPride rear finish mower, and had to do the same just to get it on. Once on, I adjusted the belt for proper tension about 1/4" when pushing with your thumb between two pulleys. That belt has no signs of wear and if it lasts half as long as a LandPride OEM belt, I will be happy. Changing a belt is fairly easy, and a lot easier than handing over more than $200 for what you can purchase for half or even one quarter for aftermarket.
Just keep in mind that it is rust on the pulleys that destroys a belt. Keep your pulleys clean and rust free and they will last you a long time. When winter comes, remove the belt and put it away. Spray the pulley surfaces with WD40 to keep them from rusting, adn in the spring before you put the belt back on, wipe the pulleys with some spray brake cleaner and a clean cloth to remove the winter dirt. Sure it is going to take some effort on your side, but unless you are extremely wealth, you will save some of your hard earned $$$$.

 

[rsky]

Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately there is no tension adjust on this deck, just a spring-loaded tension arm. Here is a picture of the deck before I removed the old belt. (Ignire the grime, it's getting pressure cleaned tomorrow). Also note there are no pry points to wedge a crow bar or pipe to relax the tensioner. It's either max tension with the spring attached or no tension with the spring removed. And with the spring attached there is no slack to work the belt around the final pulley.

try again tomorrow.

 

[PaulL]

I've never done that particular procedure.

But it looks to me that you could detach the tensioner spring from the left hand end in that photo. Put the belt on, then use a long (but thin) bar on the end of the spring hook, with the spring end over it. Start with it angled towards the gearbox, pull the bar towards the left pulley. Spring should slide down the bar and over the hook. If the bar is slippery enough and if the end doesn't slide off the hook. I'd guess it'll take a few tries and using the exact right incantation of words as you do it.

 

[rsky]

I've never done that particular procedure.

But it looks to me that you could detach the tensioner spring from the left hand end in that photo. Put the belt on, then use a long (but thin) bar on the end of the spring hook, with the spring end over it. Start with it angled towards the gearbox, pull the bar towards the left pulley. Spring should slide down the bar and over the hook. If the bar is slippery enough and if the end doesn't slide off the hook. I'd guess it'll take a few tries and using the exact right incantation of words as you do it.

 

[rsky]

That was my first thought, but the spring is so strong (I'm guessing at least 50-80 lbs pull) that I was afraid of damaging the mower - or me - if it slipped. But the more I looked at it the more I agree with your idea and had another go at it, this time with the longest smoothest screwdriver I could find, and a paranoid abundance of caution, put the screwdriver blade against the hook and the spring end around the shaft, and pried that spring onto the hook.... finally. Thanks to everyone who chimed in. Hopefully this belt will last another 17 years like the original did.

 

[Henro]

I just did that reattachment of the tension spring on my RCK60–22BX. (I believe that mower deck number)

I asked the same question in a specific thread recently, and the suggestion that I got that worked really well for me, was to use a little ratchet strap to pull the spring. In my case the deck was still on the tractor so I only had to hook up the strap to a post. I used the piece of rope between the end of the spring and the hook on the strap.

This made for the easiest installation of the spring that I’ve had in 20 years. It will be my go to method from now on. After I was done I thought, man I should’ve taken a picture! The ratchet strap was a small one only about an inch or an inch and a quarter wide.

edit: guess my finger wasn’t moving that fast! I see there was a happy conclusion and you got the spring back in place!

 

[Russell King]

@rsky , You might feel safer if you used a small diameter piece of pipe or conduit (thin wall?) instead of the screw driver. You could drill a hole near the end that fits over the hook end so there is less concern about it slipping off the hook. I think you could even notch out the end of the pipe or conduit.

Actually you might just be able to drill a hole in the screw driver tip?

 

[Henro]

@rsky , You might feel safer if you used a small diameter piece of pipe or conduit (thin wall?) instead of the screw driver. You could drill a hole near the end that fits over the hook end so there is less concern about it slipping off the hook. I think you could even notch out the end of the pipe or conduit.

Actually you might just be able to drill a hole in the screw driver tip?

I think the problem might be that the end of the spring has such a short radius, it would be difficult to get the tool off the spring, while time getting the spring hook end latched onto the post.

I know I’ve struggled with that spring many times over the years, and the ratchet strap idea that somebody here gave me was the safest and most comfortable solution for me.

link to the thread I mentioned to above:

Tips and Tricks - I need one!

I just rebuilt the spindle on my RC60BX-22 mower deck. Every time I have to release tension on the mower belt, I suffer getting the tension spring back on. It was easier when younger, but at 75 (gasp!) I seem to have less strength than I used to. I use a rope tied to the end of the spring and...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[WaltfromNC]

I use the small rope around the spring hook wrapped around a piece of small pipe on the other end and if you have someone around, just brace your foot off of the deck and pull it back and they can just push it onto the hook. If nobody is around, as mentioned, just tie one end of the small diameter (nylon type) rope off on something safe and solid (and low) and with the deck on the tractor, slowly move the tractor back and forth increasing tension until all line up and push it onto the hook. Can just utility knife cut the rope off if it gets stuck under the hook.