Rapid flashing on all easy checker lamps on 90' L3250

OutdoorsmanL3250

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Jun 25, 2014
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North Georgia, US
I have checked all electrical but if the tractor is cold upon start up, everything starts up and works great up until 1-2 minutes later all my easy checker lights start inconsistently flashing. At first when you turn lights on it will stop or only flash maybe once or twice every 10-15 sec while lights on. After the tractor has been running awhile it flashes the same lights on or off. If you turn the tractor off, sit for awhile but not "cool off" it will start as soon as you crank it back up. All lights work, switches, signals work. I have tested the voltage regulator per manual and it seems ok per the tests but im wondering if its still possible the voltage reg could be allowing too much voltage through freaking my panel out?. If i dont start the tractor for a week or two it takes sometimes up to 2 min before flashing begins (weaker battery?) but if i drive one day then go start it the next, it starts flashing quicker like within 30 sec. Any input you guys?!?!? Please help




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TOA #118
 

Daren Todd

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Check your battery with a voltmeter while it's running. Should be about 13.5 to 14 volts. Sometimes as high as 14.2, if any higher then theres an issue with the regulator. If lower then 13.5 then the same thing. If your seeing voltage slowly creep up from what ever the battery voltage is by .1 or .2 volts at a time, then theres corrosion or a loose connection and connections need to be cleaned and checked;)
 

Daren Todd

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Another thought on that:) my dad has an l2250 about the same age as yours. He's had a bunch of issues with corrosion in the quick connectors for the wiring harness under the dash. On his it's located to the left of the pto, and can get to it with out taking the dash apart.
 

OutdoorsmanL3250

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Jun 25, 2014
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North Georgia, US
Check your battery with a voltmeter while it's running. Should be about 13.5 to 14 volts. Sometimes as high as 14.2, if any higher then theres an issue with the regulator. If lower then 13.5 then the same thing. If your seeing voltage slowly creep up from what ever the battery voltage is by .1 or .2 volts at a time, then theres corrosion or a loose connection and connections need to be cleaned and checked;)
Thanks buddy i will check that when i get home hopefully today. I will have to check and hunt down all the connectors. I must mention that when i first got it the electrolyte lamp stayed lit 24/7 bc i have normal farm battery in it so the sensor wasnt in water. There was no flashing then, i bypassed the electrolyte sensor and that lamp went off, everything was great for months then the flashing started. But... Even if i hook the sensor back up that light stays constant but others still flash so i dont think its nothing i have done. I know its not a huge issue but the flashing just bugs me!! Lol thanks again





" A gun is like a woman son it's all how you hold her"
TOA #118
 

OutdoorsmanL3250

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Jun 25, 2014
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North Georgia, US
Check your battery with a voltmeter while it's running. Should be about 13.5 to 14 volts. Sometimes as high as 14.2, if any higher then theres an issue with the regulator. If lower then 13.5 then the same thing. If your seeing voltage slowly creep up from what ever the battery voltage is by .1 or .2 volts at a time, then theres corrosion or a loose connection and connections need to be cleaned and checked;)

Well i got the new regulator on tonight and cranked it up.... Ran it for 30 min and no flashing lights 😁 but.... My voltage is the same 12.2 at the battery while running. I only checked it for maybe a solid minute or so, maybe the batt is charged and not needing voltage? I told you i had checked my alternator per shop manual tests before but im gunna check it again to make sure my alternator falls within specs. Either way changing the reg has fixed the flashing easy checkers so far, perhaps an issue within the old reg itself? Either way thanks again buddy




" A gun is like a woman son it's all how you hold her"
TOA #118
 

Daren Todd

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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
May 18, 2014
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Vilonia, Arkansas
Well i got the new regulator on tonight and cranked it up.... Ran it for 30 min and no flashing lights 😁 but.... My voltage is the same 12.2 at the battery while running. I only checked it for maybe a solid minute or so, maybe the batt is charged and not needing voltage? I told you i had checked my alternator per shop manual tests before but im gunna check it again to make sure my alternator falls within specs. Either way changing the reg has fixed the flashing easy checkers so far, perhaps an issue within the old reg itself? Either way thanks again buddy




" A gun is like a woman son it's all how you hold her"
TOA #118
It sounds like the altenator is bad or altenator isn't getting power to the smaller wires (exciter wires) it should be putting out between 13.5 and 14 volts. Try pulling it apart and checking the windings inside. Might be full of dirt. If thats not the case, it may be time for a rebuild. I usually can get them rebuilt for around 100$
 

OutdoorsmanL3250

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I have a E F and N on the 3 pin plug to the alternator, E being a ground and N going to and communicating from the regulator and easy checker. Of course i have the big red or "B" terminal also connected to the right. Checking with voltmeter, which wire should the alternator be putting the 14v back on, or which terminal?





" A gun is like a woman son it's all how you hold her"
TOA #118
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Quickest alt test in the book... Ok maybe it's not in the book but it works... At night start it up and turn on the lights disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator, do the lights get dimmer when it's disconnected connected and brighter when it is? Is so then it's charging no need to do much else with it. ;)
 

OutdoorsmanL3250

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Jun 25, 2014
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North Georgia, US
Quickest alt test in the book... Ok maybe it's not in the book but it works... At night start it up and turn on the lights disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator, do the lights get dimmer when it's disconnected connected and brighter when it is? Is so then it's charging no need to do much else with it. ;)
Man you have no idea what ive gone through on this. I replaced the regulator and still dead on 12v at batt while running and per the tests in the shop manual say its good. I jumped E on alternator to ground and disconnected the red B from + term on alternator and jumped N to the B post and across i had 14.5v but when the alternator is plugged in all i can get is 12v from b post to ground and same at regulator. Meter shows clear continuity from all places at all wires (switch and timer included) i have ordered an alternator bc this one under a "load" i feel isnt producing, thanks for all yalls help... We shall see....





" A gun is like a woman son it's all how you hold her"
TOA #118