Radiator leak ... JB Weld?

[Jimc3165]

Has anyone used JB Weld to repair their Radiator. I did a google search and it looks like that is a workable solution plenty of folks have done it and it also looks like it will hold long term, just wanted to ask the experts here. It looks like I ran my hood bolts in to far and 1 of them was rubbing on the base of the radiator and I got a stream the size of an eraser when I backed out my hood bolt. I started to take it out and realized I was going to disconnect the Hydraulic lines and decided that If I could repair in place, that might be the preferred method rather than introduce possible contamination in the Hydraulic system.

Sorry for the long post, I tend to be long winded occasionally

Jim

I added the pic and also obviously found out you could remove just the radiator the right hood bolt was just screwed in to far and it finally rubbed a hold in it.

 

[Jim L.]

If the tank is metal it should work. Be sure it is clean and dry.

I think that I would plug the main part of the hole with a short or cut down bolt. Let the JB weld fill between the threads and bolt head, as the bolt is turned in.

 

[dandeman]

It appears in the photo that your top tank with the hole is a solderable metal e.g. copper not aluminum) as it looks like the side bracket is soldered to the tank. Also the tank header to radiator core joint located further down looks like typical soldered radiator construction.

If so, your most reliable fix would be the solder the hole closed. It could be done in place using a high wattage soldering iron e.g. 275-300 watt range or if you have a propane torch with the solder tip option, if you come in from the right direction, they are pretty good at keeping the heat away from adjacent stuff.

 

[Bmbbm]

Has anyone used JB Weld to repair their Radiator. I did a google search and it looks like that is a workable solution plenty of folks have done it and it also looks like it will hold long term, just wanted to ask the experts here. It looks like I ran my hood bolts in to far and 1 of them was rubbing on the base of the radiator and I got a stream the size of an eraser when I backed out my hood bolt. I started to take it out and realized I was going to disconnect the Hydraulic lines and decided that If I could repair in place, that might be the preferred method rather than introduce possible contamination in the Hydraulic system.

Sorry for the long post, I tend to be long winded occasionally

Jim

I added the pic and also obviously found out you could remove just the radiator the right hood bolt was just screwed in to far and it finally rubbed a hold in it.

Got a buddy that didn't winterize his boat engine correctly, come Spring he had a external water leak from a crack in the block. He patched it with JB Weld and its still going strong 10 plus years later.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I fixed a broken crankcase on a riding mower,ran strong for 10 years until i parked it.used epoxy putty.

Its a brass tank, drop a big screw in and solder it. Propane torch will do it.
Keep mounting bracket cool with a wet rag,use plumbing solder and flux.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Soldering the tank would be the 100% best method of a permanent repair, but yes some epoxy might hold it a while.

 

[lugbolt]

JB will work. But don't just smear it on the outside and call it good. The correct way to do it is to seal up the inlet and outlet, put the cap on and pull a vacuum on the tank. While it's under vacuum, then go ahead and put the JB weld on. Leave it under vacuum until the JB sets up, then let it fully cure. This is a permanent solution and is pretty much how most radiator shops do it-especially with aluminum that can't be soldered.

 

[beige02]

Go with soldering to permanently fix it.

 

[BAP]

JB will work. But don't just smear it on the outside and call it good. The correct way to do it is to seal up the inlet and outlet, put the cap on and pull a vacuum on the tank. While it's under vacuum, then go ahead and put the JB weld on. Leave it under vacuum until the JB sets up, then let it fully cure. This is a permanent solution and is pretty much how most radiator shops do it-especially with aluminum that can't be soldered.

Why would you want a vacuum? It would suck the JB Weld inside the radiator and then potentially plug up the some of the inside tubes.

 

[Jimc3165]

Well, tried the solder option this morning went to Lowes and purchased the supplies and gave it a shot. I put a cut off stainless screw in the hole and filled in around the screw but kept getting something in the solder. Not sure but maybe some antifreeze left inside and that was contaminating the process. I haven't done any silver solder or brazing in 30 years so probably just didn't do it right but anyway still had a dribble under no pressure so used a brush in my drill to clean real good and then applied brake cleaner after it dried I applied JB weld, tomorrow I'll know if I was successful has to set at least 15 hours. The only thing that went right with that attempt to repair was one of the side brackets was loose and I did get it soldered back on.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I just need to practice doing some soldering before an issue like this comes up again.

 

[Bulldog777]

Just a thought, take the radiator to a shop that repairs radiators. They will probably do it cheap since you brought the radiator in. I took an aluminum freezer coil to a shop and the soldered it up for like $12.
If using the JB Weld, take the paint off of the surface and "scratch" the surface to give the JB Weld something to adhere to. Clean with alcohol, let dry, and apply the JB Weld.
My brother in law repaired a hole in a Ford engine caused by a broken rod. The truck ran for years after that.

 

[OldeEnglish]

Well, tried the solder option this morning went to Lowes and purchased the supplies and gave it a shot. I put a cut off stainless screw in the hole and filled in around the screw but kept getting something in the solder. Not sure but maybe some antifreeze left inside and that was contaminating the process. I haven't done any silver solder or brazing in 30 years so probably just didn't do it right but anyway still had a dribble under no pressure so used a brush in my drill to clean real good and then applied brake cleaner after it dried I applied JB weld, tomorrow I'll know if I was successful has to set at least 15 hours. The only thing that went right with that attempt to repair was one of the side brackets was loose and I did get it soldered back on.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I just need to practice doing some soldering before an issue like this comes up again.

You need a brass screw. Clean the surface with Emory cloth and wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol to get rid of the antifreeze residue, clean the screw with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil. Flux the surface around the hole as well as the screw.

Put screw in hole and point flame (or hold soldering iron on the head of the screw) at the screw and dab it with solder when it's hot enough but don't over do it with the heat and burn the flux.

Also remove the radiator cap before soldering, the heat will create pressure inside and blow the solder right out. Your only going to have to use a small amount of solder, probably like no more than a 1/2" of it, any more will be dripping into the radiator.

I hope this helps!

 

[Changnam 59]

I have just done a soldered repair to the brass radiator on my B6000.

The repair was to where the radiator cap neck joins the top tank.

I have never done this type of repair before and I was a bit apprehensive after researching it on the internet.

I used plumbers solder and flux and a propane gas torch and the repair works perfectly. Cosmetically it could have been a little bit better but after repainting the radiator you have to look hard to see that it has been repaired.

I say go for it by soldering.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Stainless isnt the best choice for a plug, but the jb weld shoud seal it.

 

[Jimc3165]

Stainless isnt the best choice for a plug, but the jb weld shoud seal it.

I know that now, goes to show how little I know about this sort of thing.

 

[Jimc3165]

This leak has snowballed into a real mess. I installed the radiator so that I could run the tractor and get up to temperature and make sure the leak was fixed, The fan would not turn. The bearings are really rough in the dynamo, sometimes you crank it and the fan will turn and other times not, also the last few days I have noticed low oil pressure at idle. So I'm guessing I have the cam plug missing along with the bad bearings in the dynamo. This tractor has been rock solid since I purchased it but I do remember the PO saying he had replaced the bearings in the dynamo twice so not sure why the cam plug issue showed up.

1 question from those of you who do tractor repair often, which bearings do you like national or SKF or some other brand. I don't want to go into the dynamo but 1 time.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Either of those bearings are good, or Timken.

If the bearings have gone out multiple times it might just need a new dynamo as I image all the bearing riding surfaces are worn.

 

[Jimc3165]

Either of those bearings are good, or Timken.

If the bearings have gone out multiple times it might just need a new dynamo as I image all the bearing riding surfaces are worn.

Thanks NIW, I'll know more when I get it off along with the rest of the front of the motor. Your slogan sure fits my scenario, the pack is definitely nipping at my heels.

 

[Daren Todd]

For bearings, there are quite a few good brands out there. Koyo, national, Timken, and SKF.

But actually if I'm not mistaken, Timken are actually made by National. At least they are on there lip seals. Including the same part number.

 

[Jimc3165]

Looks like a new Dynamo is needed. Pieces of magnet was coming apart and lots of debris inside also I believe it was leaking water inside so that is what killed the bearings. I'll tackle the rest of the tear down tomorrow to see if I need the cam plug. Any guidance anyone wants to impart, I'm all ears.