R1 vs R4 tires for compact tractor

[Big tooth]

My old B9200 has R1 tires that are starting to crack. I’m thinking about replacing them and would like to hear your thought on the R4 vs the R1.
Note; I don’t use the tractor on a “lawn” so I’m not worried about leaving some damage

 

[cthomas]

Are R14t's available for it? Do you use it in the winter time(I see your in Wisconsin too)? Found this on Tractor by Net.
I hear that R1 tires are mostly great but they can - puncture easier, are not good for bucket work or backhoe work, and tear up lawns, they also would increase ground clearance which is usually good.

I hear that R4 tires are thicker - but their major downside is potential traction.

So IMO it seems like if R1 tires were fine with bucket and backhoe work, and didn't really puncture easily, and didn't totally tear up lawns they would be the best choice.

OR if R4 tires were fine in mud and snow and other areas where you need traction then they would be the best choice.

Here is the link if you want to read 12 pages.

Putting the R1 vs R4 debate to rest?

Alright guys ... so I am like everyone else going back and forth on R1 vs R4 tires. I figured I can use this thread to hopefully put an end to the debate with real experience. OK so: I hear that R1 tires are mostly great but they can - puncture easier, are not good for bucket work or backhoe...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

My old B9200 has R1 tires that are starting to crack. I’m thinking about replacing them and would like to hear your thought on the R4 vs the R1.
Note; I don’t use the tractor on a “lawn” so I’m not worried about leaving some damage

Unless you have a reason to switch dont. Cheaper and better field traction with the R1s.

Dan

 

[pokey1416]

R-4’s here and they are grooved for better winter traction. Ride kind of rough on the road though especially in winter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you want to use R4's you'll have to find a set that matches the RC ratio of your R1's.
You will need to find different rims or more likely have custom rims made in order to fit the tires you need.

 

[D2Cat]

Your tires a "starting to crack" is not necessarily a reason to purchase new tires. If they don't appeal to you, or you just want new tires that's different. Cracks in a tractor tire being used at a snails pace that hold air will last for years! If you'd like some pictures.....

 

[woodman55]

I started having surface cracks on my woods trailer tires 20 years age, and they are still going strong. A picture might be useful, to show the amount of cracking.

 

[RCW]

While Dad did finally change them 6-8 years ago, the rear tires on the old Moline were original from 1953....sat outside most of its life. Under some kind of cover in recent years.

UV rays make then check pretty hard, but like D2Cat said, they need to get pretty bad before they aren't useable.

 

[cthomas]

If the cracks bug you, just fill in with shoe polish.

 

[woodman55]

If you do decide to replace them with something different, I would look at R14's. Lots of people seem to like them.

 

[GrizBota]

R1’s unless you have a need to change, such as operating on hard surfaces a lot. R14 was mentioned, they load up with mud pretty easily. Certainly not a good replacement option if you actually need R1’s.

 

[will721]

Skip the R4s. All of our equipment at work runs them and I hate them with a passion. Really the only benefit is they don't tear up turf as bad as r1s, but even then they still do. If anything skip to the r14s, thats what my LX runs and I've been thrilled with then. Easier on the turf than the R1s but stilk bite quite well. Plus a better ride on the pavement.

My older tractors run R1s. While my 2n has about 1000lbs on my LX, its 2wd and I have no doubt in my mind it would drag it around if I chained them together off pavement. Just a tip for R1s, the cracking is likely just cosmetic. For deeper cracks that bother you, you can fill them with 3m's urethane windshield bond. Something I picked up from some old timers in the antique Ford world. It stays flexible and sticks better than anything. Store left overs in the freezer for next time.

 

[old and tired]

...would like to hear your thought on the R4 vs the R1.

R1's hands down unless you are worried about your yard (which you ain't). BUT Save your money, those tires are fine. If you are having to add air in them all the time, that would be another story but there's plenty of life left in them.

Buy a bolt on grapple if you want/need to spend money!!

 

[SDT]

Unless you have a reason to switch dont. Cheaper and better field traction with the R1s.

Dan

Agreed.

R-1s provide best traction on non paved surfaces and cost less.

No need to introduce gearing issues which the tire dealer will not care about but you will.

Why change.

 

[SDT]

Unless you have a reason to switch dont. Cheaper and better field traction with the R1s.

Dan

Agreed!

 

[Big tooth]

If you want to use R4's you'll have to find a set that matches the RC ratio of your R1's.
You will need to find different rims or more likely have custom rims made in order to fit the tires you need.

interesting, didn’t know the rims would need to be changed.
That really helps me decide from a cost perspective.
R1 tires have worked for more than 30 years, no sense in buying new rims if not needed.