Quick Hitch Selection for L2501

[rgOO6]

Hello All!
I am trying to decide between the QH05, QH10, and QH15 quick hitches from Landpride. For the L2501, it seems like watching the weight on the back is important.

From the manual, the implement max weights are:
rotary-cutter = 770 lbs
disk harrow = 660 lbs
cultivator = 550 lbs
box blade = 694 lbs

The QH05 supports up to 700 lbs. and only weighs 37 lbs.
The QH10 supports up to 2,000 lbs. and weighs 67 lbs.
The QH15 looks like over-kill. But it has an adjustable top link. Is that really useful enough to justify it over the QH05?

An RCR1272 rotary cutter weighs 564 lbs. If I went up to an RCR1860 it weighs 599 lbs.
A DH1560 disc harrow is shown as compatible, but the weight is 628 lbs. If I add a QH10 or QH15 then its beyond the 3-pt rating.

I think I understand the trade offs, and I am thinking of just getting a QH05 to save some weight, which would let me run a slightly heavier rotary cutter and disc harrow without overloading the 3-pt.

Anyone got the QH05 and regret it? $268 is the current new price.
Anyone got the QH10 and regret it? $540 is the current new price.
The QH15 is only $557, so if I go for the QH10, it seems pointless to not upgrade. It only weighs 3 lbs more than the QH10.

I know there is a factory of safety in everything. What has anyone else experienced with different systems and weights, other than voiding the warranty...
Thank you,
Rick

 

[B737]

I have just made the leap to Quick Hitch last month. I regret being so stubborn and not doing it years ago.

I would consider QH10 or QH15, I think the QH05 is more at home on BX.
QH10 you will not need bushings for your class 1 implements, but it has a fixed top hook. QH15 has adjustable top hook but will require bushings.

I asked my friend if he ever moved the hook on his QH15, he said "only once". I bought QH10 because thats all my dealer had in stock. I have 10 attachments, two needed fabbing (chinese flail mower and a leaf blower) to work with the QH, a movable top hook would not have made a difference.

I wish I made the jump to using a QH sooner, you will love it, it is worth the effort to set up.

 

[i7win7]

Tractor manual & tractordata.com cab answer capacity questions
Rear lift (at ends): 1918 lbs
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1389 lbs

As for adjustible top link modify your stuff to fit the QH

Ideas to make implements QH compatible

Get the most benefit from your quick hitch. Buying new get QH compatible. Here is a photo of an implement whose manufacturer has their act together. Note how it's designed for cat 1 & 2. Also the lift arm spacing can be adjusted. Some "QH compatible" only need minor modification. This TSC...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[jimh406]

I have a QH15. I’ve never used the adjustable top link, and it also requires bushings. If I had it to do over, I probably would have bought a QH10 because it doesn’t require bushings, and as a different dealer said, if it is truly QH compatible, you will never the adjustable top link.

However, someone here said they liked the adjustable top link, so I bought a QH15. Someone else had issues with the pins falling out, so they switched to bolts which makes the easy adjustable top link pretty worthless.

However, if you have Cat 2 implements or will in the future, the QH15 will work. The QH10 will not, so maybe in the future, I might be glad that I got a QH15. It wasn’t that much of a deal to find the bushings I needed, but it was a bit of work.

 

[Roadworthy]

My implements vary in width so rather than fool with it I went with Pat's Quick Hitch. I did need a longer top link but have been very happy with my choice. I guess if I wanted to really go overboard I could even get telescoping sway adjusters.

 

[rgOO6]

Thank you for all the comments. I wanted to ask about the implement weight restriction, since I may not be looking at them correctly. From the comments above, the only thing that was looked at was the lift capacity 24" behind the link. What about the implement weight tables that are in the manual? Am I reading the capacity wrong by assuming that those capacities are what you should check for on the total "implement plus hitch" weight? See the attached screen shots from my manual. I only ask for clarification because the size and weight of disc harrow and rotary cutter I like the most is going to determine how heavy my quick hitch can be.

 

[Njtool]

For what it’s worth, I have a speeco E-hitch. It doesn’t require bushings and it seems well built. Plus it didn’t take that long to get from everything attachments

 

[RBA50]

I may be wrong (it happened!) But I believe the tables Kubota puts in their manuals are based more on what the tractor can handle based on traction and balance (front to rear) than on hitch capacity. In the case of things like a box blade, they factor in how the full load in the box affects the ability of the tractor to pull it. Based on that they can say that a box of a certain size and weight will actually be able to be pulled. You can go bigger and heavier, but you will run out of either traction or horsepower with a full load. I believe this applies to the other implements as well, a combination of available power to run the implement and the weight plus the "working load" of the cutter or implement.

All that said, the quick hitch is a relatively insignificant part of the equation. Personally, I run a Harbor Freight quick hitch, with an aftermarket hook to gain a little clearance. Less than $125 total when I got the hitch on sale, and added the hook a couple years later. The adjustable top hook is important to me, as I have an implement that was not made for quick hitches, and the manufacturer explained why the top link needed to connect so high, in order to make the implement dump and clear its load. I converted it but kept the top link connection as high as possible . Works fine. Most of my other implements use the lowest setting, except the ballast box, which uses a middle setting. Changing the hook position takes all of ten seconds with the pins I use.

Bushings or Quick hitch adapters are not expensive if you shop around. Plain bushings are only a couple dollars, and the pin on adapters used to be a bout $12 set at Northern Tool. Haven't priced them lately but there are a lot of source for them, so they can be had fairly cheaply.

 

[rgOO6]

I may be wrong (it happened!) But I believe the tables Kubota puts in their manuals are based more on what the tractor can handle based on traction and balance (front to rear) than on hitch capacity...

Bushings or Quick hitch adapters are not expensive if you shop around. Plain bushings are only a couple dollars, and the pin on adapters used to be a bout $12 set at Northern Tool. Haven't priced them lately but there are a lot of source for them, so they can be had fairly cheaply.

Hey RBA50, that makes sense and helps explain the difference between the lift rating and implement weights. I won't worry so much about exceeding it. I have read of other people using bigger implements than the table (specifically with disc harrows).

I will probably buy some implements and wait a little bit before buying the quick hitch. I am not 100% sure which brand of implements I will buy, and most will be whatever I can find used. So maybe after I collect a few it will give me a better idea on deciding between a hitch with a fixed top hook or it needing bushings.

Thank you all for the comments!

 

[TomRC]

I've got a used QH15 I'll sell you as I prefer the Pat's quick hitch everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. Better access to the pto to connect pto driven implements (i.e less blurting out of expletives and less back pain) and works with any brand of implement. You will still have to adjust the adjustable top link on the QH15 for different "quick hitch compatible" implements to sit flush in the lower pins of the QH15 which negates some of the convenience factor.

Buy a Pat's!

 

[rgOO6]

I've got a used QH15 I'll sell you as I prefer the Pat's quick hitch everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. Better access to the pto to connect pto driven implements (i.e less blurting out of expletives and less back pain) and works with any implement. You will still have to adjust the adjustable top link on the QH15 for different "quick hitch compatible" implements to sit flush in the lower pins of the QH15 which negates some of the convenience factor.

Buy a Pat's!

I might take you up on that. You live in Kentucky? I actual had a trip planned up there but got canceled due to COVID.

 

[johnsayen]

I've got a used QH15 I'll sell you as I prefer the Pat's quick hitch everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. Better access to the pto to connect pto driven implements (i.e less blurting out of expletives and less back pain) and works with any brand of implement. You will still have to adjust the adjustable top link on the QH15 for different "quick hitch compatible" implements to sit flush in the lower pins of the QH15 which negates some of the convenience factor.

Buy a Pat's!

Can you tell us more about the pats?

 

[B737]

with pats you run the risk of running out of top link length since the bottom is brought out a few inches but the top link is not. With a QH you dont even have to get off the seat of the machine to hook up or drop implements. Gotta get off for PTO shaft, but if you get close, hook that up first it's no big deal.

to @rgOO6, I would get the QH FIRST because you will end up like me. 10 implements later, the light bulb goes on that there has to be a better way. Now you have a bunch of things to adjust and check. I needed to lengthen 4x PTO shafts by 4", plus buying new safety shields for each. That was not a ton of fun. Two other attachments needed minor adjustments but were easy to sort out. I was a stubborn hold out, but have seen the light.

 

[TomRC]

I'm glad I got the QH15 quick hitch first as otherwise I probably would not have grown to appreciate the Pat's as much as I have. I did end up buying a longer top link from Tractor Supply which was a minor expense. I store some of my implements on rolling dollies to save space in my barn. Having the implements raised off the ground to begin with makes a slightly longer top link easier to connect but for the most part I still use the stock top link for bush hog, tiller, box blade, finish mower, and disc harrow. The only thing you have to tweak a bit is when you first install the Pat's there is some "play" for lack of a better description in the angle that the Pat's angles off the lower link arms. A little trial and error and once set properly they have been good to go.

Other than working with any brand implement the biggest benefit for me was the Pat's gave me sooooo much better access to the PTO where as the boxed frame of the QH15 made it awkward hooking up the pto. Had to hold weight at an awkward uncomfortable angle bent over from a further distance out. For those of ya'll with healthy strong backs it may be a non issue but the Pat's allows me to position myself closer to the pto in a stronger position to begin with to manipulate and connect to the pto.

 

[random]

I got this one, looks a lot like some others I've seen pics of around here. Works good for me: tiller, scraper, road plane, no problems with any.

Cat 1 Quick Hitch-3-Point Quick Hitch

Quick hitches can easily attach to different category tractors. This 3-point quick hitch fits a category 1 and operates at maximum horsepower of 50.

www.agrisupply.com

 

[RBA50]

Good point about PTO shaft length. If you are ever going to use a quick hitch or Pat's, get it first. You will then be able to cut your PTO shafts to the right length for it, and not have to go back later and get longer ones or try to lengthen the ones you cut too short. I found that out the hard way!

 

[rgOO6]

I am been doing some more researching on this topic. Is there anyone running an adjustable/hydraulic top link with the PAT's system? That is what I am thinking about going with.

 

[B737]

I am been doing some more researching on this topic. Is there anyone running an adjustable/hydraulic top link with the PAT's system? That is what I am thinking about going with.

You are losing ~ 4” of top link doing it this way. If you have a manual top link, could be easily replaced with longer one. If you have hydraulic top link it will be expensive to correct.
Just get the quick hitch and be done with it I was a very stubborn hold out too!

 

[Elliott in GA]

I purchased the QH 10 with the tractor and all of the implements in my signature, and it makes everything easy and repeatable without any adjustments for the mowers and little adjustment for the box blade.

My LP Spreader is not Quick Hitch compatible (I believe none of them are), but I only have to mount it twice a year. The process is not difficult, and the Spreader is easy to move around.

As to access to the PTO for hook up, a QH does limit you to some extent, but once you learn where to stand it is simple. The first time I hooked up my rotary cutter's PTO shaft, it probably took 15 minutes. The second time I did it, it took less than 90 seconds.

 

[rgOO6]

I am still a bit torn on whether to get the QH15 or the PAT's system. From what I can tell, the PAT's seems to allow a broader range of equipment manufacturers. I plan to buy some off-brand subsoiler and plow attachments. So that is one reason I am thinking of going with the PAT's instead of QH15. If I had the extra money to buy top end stuff... I definitely would not mind going with land pride for everything. But it most of the comparisons I am doing (value, not just price) it seems like I can get compatible value for about half the price by finding older impliments and off-brand. As for the hydraulic top link, I am planning to buy that later on so I know the appropriate length to buy.