Quick Attach SSQA DIY Fabrication for B7510 LA302 FEL Bucket

[Smokeydog]

Have many attachments and made some with attachment plates. All seem to vary in clearance and some I’ve had to shim. I think newer ones have become more standardized.

The 2016 B26 has sexy curve side flares on both the ssqa and backhoe qa buckets. Makes is super easy to self align and attach even with less optimal positioning. The B26 has good visibility anyway. The larger tractors not so much. Larger tractors have heavier attachments. Storing attachments inside the drip line of barn stall or shed leaves plenty of uneven ground between attachments and tractors. Added side flare plates to help align has made awkward attachment engaging so much easier. Have one heavy grapple that was tight clearance and tuff to engage now just jumps on. For tractor ssqa should have side flares. Have added flare side plates to a couple attachments now.

 

[Smokeydog]

Todays update - I'm finished hacking up the bucket with the angle grinder. I had to cut back the reinforcing brace a bit:
View attachment 122076

Then put a cutout in the bottom 'lip' piece to accommodate the SSQA pin. It's 1/4 x 3" stock.
View attachment 122077

And here's the bucket with the bottom lip plate and reinforcement plates tack-welded up:
View attachment 122085

I put the bucket on the SSQA adapter, and it looks decent - no glaring issues, but there's some fine tuning needed to get the 'gap' between the back of the bucket and the front of the latch plate set properly. It looks like the ISO standard says there is supposed to be a gap, but I don't have access to the full spec and don't know what the gap ought to be.
View attachment 122087

You want the wedge pins to give tight fit with no play. See where paint has been contact between latchbox plates and bucket.

 

[InTheWoods]

Pretty much wrapped this project up. Here's the latch plates on the tractor:

The modified bucket:

And both of them together:

I don't think I'd change too much, although I wished I'd have spent some time practicing my welding before tackling this - it's been a while since I did much MIG welding, and it shows! The latch plates I bought and showed in the first post are heavier than needed. They're made of 5/16 (8mm?) steel plate and for this application, add unnecessary weight - 1/4" construction would have been plenty stout.

In my opinion, the only 'critical' part of the project is getting the side plates (with the bushings that accept the pins) accurately located, and not having your welds distort them. I took baby steps, checking them often throughout the weld to be sure they stayed straight. Same goes for putting in the 2x3 cross member between the latch plates - make sure it doesn't create distortion that would knock the pin bushings out of whack.

I put a little 2" x 1.5" drawbar 'receiver' on the latch plate cross member - that way I can easily pop the drawbar out of the back of the tractor and put it, with a 2" ball, up front to move my little trailers around.

As I mentioned, the HF 6" grinder was a pleasant surprise. Fitted with a 1/16" cutoff wheel, it was super handy.

I still need to figure out the best way to grease the bottom pins - the zerks aren't accessible - I need to make an access hole on the bottom of the latch plates, I guess. Or maybe right-angle zerks.

 

[torch]

I drilled the pins 1/2 way, then cross-drilled them and finally turned a shallow groove around the center of the pin through the cross-drilled holes. Pump in grease from the end, it makes its way through the passages to the centre and then spreads evenly between the pin and the bushing.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

That looks great man.

That was a fantastic project, and I am sure you will love that mod..

If you're like me, you are probably "your own worst critic" when it comes to the welds, so I am sure they will be fine. (they look good in the pics anyway )

That draw bar attachment was good thinking too.

 

[Smokeydog]

Nice work! Enjoy the flexibly of attachments. You certainly have the skills to make custom attachments.

The cross/space member is substantial. Still would be careful supporting much weight.

The heal of the bucket is important in finishing grading and smoothing. Using the cutting edge to do the same puts tremendous compression forces on the curl cylinders. Some members have bent the curl cylinder rods. Heavier duty buckets have more metal reinforcing the back edge.

 

[InTheWoods]

Thanks guys for the tips and cautions. Appreciate the feedback. (we all know the dopamine hit is the reason we keep coming back)

The cross-drill-the-pins idea is spot on. Once a guy has a lathe sitting in the corner of the shop, it seems like it becomes the hammer and most problems resemble nails...

I'll be making QA forks next, taking ideas from Torch, and my neighbor (who built forks for this weird green-colored machine he has).

I'm inclined to put that build in this thread (editing the title to include 'forks'), or should I put that build in a new thread?

 

[D2Cat]

Nice job. I'd be very careful what you attach to the drawbar receiver. You could be moving a trailer around, hit a rock and catch a wheel and bend the bar it's welded to. That will effect your attaching plates. Better to have it attached to it's own plate, or top of bucket.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Thanks guys tips and cautions. Appreciate the feedback. (we all know the dopamine hit is the reason we keep coming back)

The cross-drill-the-pins idea is spot on. Once a guy has a lathe sitting in the corner of the shop, it seems like it becomes the hammer and most problems resemble nails...

I'll be making QA forks next, taking ideas from Torch, and my neighbor (who built forks for this weird green-colored machine he has).

I'm inclined to put that build in this thread (editing the title to include 'forks'), or should I put that build in a new thread?

New thread. (need more pics too)