Question oil dip stick D722 engine in G1900

Hugo Habicht

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Hello,

I am a bit confused by the oil dip stick in the engine. It does not even look close to the picture in the manual. It is also fairly loose in the block, this could be wear or possibly it is the wrong dip stick.

When I did an oil change today I filled in exactly 3l as per manual and now the oil level is up to the blue arrow. Is the minimum really the orange and the maximum the blue mark? Even considering that the stick is at an angle I find the distance a bit too big. There are two more marks in the middle but I think those are part of a number.

Can anybody confirm / deny that this is the right dip stick and where the minimum and maximum marks are?

Kind regards,
Hugo
 

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85Hokie

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Hugo,

At first I was suspect of the stick too - but looking at the OEM versions is seems to be spot on.

The 3 liters are spot on too.

Think of this - that angle - the steepness of the angle places those lines closer together at that angle - IF that makes sense.

Did you start it first THEN check? The filter would have pulled some of the 3 l - if it is below the "blue" mark - I would say you are fine.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Hello 85Hokie,

yes, I did run the engine briefly to fill the filter and then waited for the oil to settle. And yes, the angle makes a difference. So you reckon it is the correct dip stick? The picture in the manual shows totally different proportions.

That the rubber is not very tight could be explained by a lot of use, I will replace that so.

Kind regards,
Hugo
 

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22R

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Hugo, it looks just like my dipstick. I keep mine at the blue mark line. Unsure bout tightness as mine fits snug. You could replace it or maybe try heat to swell it some for a tighter fit.
It does look like a different one in manual, but I think that was just for illustration or we have the exact same wrong ones :unsure:



22R
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Ok, so the manual drawing is misleading. Probably "cut and paste" from somewhere else :)

I will make a new rubber so that it fits tighly again like the transmission oil dip stick.
 

Hugo Habicht

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I just checked the number 16851-36410 on Messicks web site and it shows a dip stick just over 111mm long (4.5"). I think mine is way longer, will have to check, it would be wrong then.

If somebody could measure from the oil pan end to the minimum mark, the maximum mark and to the edge of the gasket rubber that sits on the block that would be great.
 

dragfan66

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I had to replace the dipstick in my G1800 because it was so loose where it seats.
You can't just buy the seal, have to buy the whole stick.
 

85Hokie

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I had to replace the dipstick in my G1800 because it was so loose where it seats.
You can't just buy the seal, have to buy the whole stick.
I had the same problem on a B7100 - that little black rubber stopper, if IT moves - everything is wrong!

I had to reset that stopper via another dipstick I had that was correct - then I placed a very small zip tie on the upper side of the stopper on the metal itself - trimmed it and placed a dab of super glue on the tie.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Ok, my oil dip stick is 280mm long. And it has 16851 on it, so I think it is correct. And the one on the Messicks web site 16851-36410 is with an imperial ruler, has only 8 divisions, so 11.1 inches, that matches.

So for reference if somebody is looking for it: maximum mark is 92mm below the edge of the rubber that sits on the block, minimum mark is 152mm.

So that only leaves making a new rubber seal.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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To close this thread, finally I found time to make a new rubber seal, slightly bigger than the old one. Material is NBR, shore A 70, 7.4mm diameter at the outside.

IMG_20250124_134534.jpg
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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To close this thread, finally I found time to make a new rubber seal, slightly bigger than the old one. Material is NBR, shore A 70, 7.4mm diameter at the outside.

View attachment 146938
Let me tell you why I think this is a BAD option.
The length on the seat point to the full point mark has to be exact.
How are you proposing to keep the rubber from moving on the metal dipstick?
 

GreensvilleJay

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I assume he measured the old one for position.Top(outside) seems to be painted
If the ID of the rubber is a wee bit less than the shaft, WD40 to get into position, it'll stay there for years.
MY MC grips haven't moved in decades.......
 

Hugo Habicht

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I assume he measured the old one for position.Top(outside) seems to be painted
If the ID of the rubber is a wee bit less than the shaft, WD40 to get into position, it'll stay there for years.
MY MC grips haven't moved in decades.......
That's right, I had it measured before I took the old seal off and yes, even without glue it is not easy to move.

I actually degreased everything, roughend up the metal in that position a bit, stuck a small wire through the rubber and slid it into position. The wire created a little gap in which I had super glue running down, pulled out the wire, twisted it briefly, done. The super glue is from China, the stuff they sell in Europe is no good (any more). I do not see that moving during my remaining life time.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Check it often, My first B7100 with a D750 had the moving rubber stopper and super glue lasted about a week, then moved.
Made several tries to get it to stay.

I think it fails because the metal gets heated and breaks the bond.
They recommend 3m-80 to bond it, as it never hardens.

Maybe you'll have better luck with super glue.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Check it often, My first B7100 with a D750 had the moving rubber stopper and super glue lasted about a week, then moved.
Made several tries to get it to stay.

I think it fails because the metal gets heated and breaks the bond.
They recommend 3m-80 to bond it, as it never hardens.

Maybe you'll have better luck with super glue.
Thank you for the hint, I will check it, easy enough since I have the distance. Roughening up the metal helps a lot, I find, with any type of glue. The dip stick is almost polished surface quality. If the glue fails I will use the 3m glue, but as I said, the super glue they sell in Europe fails the way you describe it, I normally avoid using it. The stuff from China I find way better, not sure what they put into it, and to be honest: I probably do not want to know :)
 
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GreensvilleJay

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roughening up provides 'tooth', something for the glue to 'grab' onto. same as using metal etching liquid on car steel panels. I'm sure everyone's seen slabs of paint peel off a car fender that wasn't 'prepped' properly.

agree some of the Chinese chemicals as GREAT. have tubes of 'metal 5min epoxy' and it's as good as official JBWeld, but 1/2 the price ! Always buy 4-5 at a time as they seem to 'grow legs' and disappear from the garage !!!!
 
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Hugo Habicht

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Yes, on a lathe from solid round material, but you need very sharp tools and very high cutting speed to get acceptable surface quality. I used solid tungsten tools at about 65m/s. Fairly low feed towards near the finish. And the thin piece needs support at the end, I used a little mandril in the tailstock.
 
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