PTO shaft stuck on tractor

[NorthwoodsLife]

I've had one of these for years... Priceless for u joints and ball joints. Hammer not required.

A C clip removal tool and one of these and it's easy peasy.

 

[6869704x4]

That would be awesome if the yoke had bolt-on caps like that. Crosses and caps are a pain in the @$$ to swap out even under the most ideal conditions, let alone trying to beat them apart without damaging anything on the tractor end.

The picture was for concept. He doesn't need caps. They're already there.

 

[mcfarmall]

The picture was for concept. He doesn't need caps. They're already there.

I know. Just slide the threaded bar through the holes. My point was beating the pizz out of it while trying to remove the cross so you can use the holes! Northwoods Life has the gentle solution to that problem...the ball joint press.

 

[6869704x4]

I know. Just slide the threaded bar through the holes. My point was beating the pizz out of it while trying to remove the cross so you can use the holes! Northwoods Life has the gentle solution to that problem...the ball joint press.

Misunderstood

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I've had one of these for years... Priceless for u joints and ball joints. Hammer not required.

A C clip removal tool and one of these and it's easy peasy.


View attachment 115815

LOL....OMG...............According to the reviews, and yourself, I am clearly in the minority.

In my humble opinion, that could possibly be the most frustrating/worthless/POS tools ever made.

I think I bought mine (Mac tools) some where circa 1988-90 and has been taking up valuable space and giving me fits of rage ever since I bought it.

Out of the hundreds of times I've tried it, it has probably worked 35% of the time.

It finally stripped out about a month or 2 ago, so I am going to warranty it, and then off it.

Edit: (But then with my luck, I will need it for a job 2 weeks after I sell it, and it will be the "only tool" that will work and will have to re-buy it.....maybe I'll just warranty it, keep it, and let my SIL sell it when I am dead........)

 

[Chanceywd]

I've had one of these for years... Priceless for u joints and ball joints. Hammer not required.

A C clip removal tool and one of these and it's easy peasy.


View attachment 115815

Best for getting the joint apart for sure, as said no pounding. HF carries one I beleieve

I've had one of these for years... Priceless for u joints and ball joints. Hammer not required.

A C clip removal tool and one of these and it's easy peasy.


View attachment 115815

Great Idea! I have had one for 30 years and used it mostly for u-joints. Didn't think to mention it .Some places like advance auto will lend you one if you pay the price for deposit.

 

[Chanceywd]

Best for getting the joint apart for sure, as said no pounding. HF carries one I beleieve

Great Idea! I have had one for 30 years and used it mostly for u-joints. Didn't think to mention it .Some places like advance auto will lend you one if you pay the price for deposit.

I think the frustrating part is having enough hands. My son and I did his front axle ones on his 2014 jeep. One can disassemble but 2 people putting together, problem if you aren't careful is tipping over one of the rollers when putting cap on and then pressing, breaks the cap. He did that and had to stop and chase another u-joint.

 

[TheOldHokie]

LOL....OMG...............According to the reviews, and yourself, I am clearly in the minority.

In my humble opinion, that could possibly be the most frustrating/worthless/POS tools ever made.

I think I bought mine (Mac tools) some where circa 1988-90 and has been taking up valuable space and giving me fits of rage ever since I bought it.

Out of the hundreds of times I've tried it, it has probably worked 35% of the time.

It finally stripped out about a month or 2 ago, so I am going to warranty it, and then off it.

Edit: (But then with my luck, I will need it for a job 2 weeks after I sell it, and it will be the "only tool" that will work and will have to re-buy it.....maybe I'll just warranty it, keep it, and let my SIL sell it when I am dead........)

I have had one of those for many years and it's had its place. Has worked well for on vehicle service of ball joints. Not so well for u-joints that I can take off the vehicle and service with a much easier to operate shop press.

Dan

 

[retired farmer]

If all the fore mentioned tips fail, it would be cutting torch time. Just have fire extinguisher, plenty of water and wet rags available,,,,, make sure insurance payed up.
rr

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I've seen people bend the HF version. My OTC brand hasn't had that problem. I've done all joints on Dana 30's, 44's, and 60's. And U joints on everything. It is easier to use the tool with 3 hands though. Just don't drop a cup and chase those needle bearings.
For U joints...
A standing press and the right adapters works too. Or a nice vise, right size socket and a dead blow hammer. But while it's mounted to the tractor, that little OTC press works wonders.
For ball joints...
It's tough to line up sometimes, but with the right adapters.... once it's right, it's golden.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If all the fore mentioned tips fail, it would be cutting torch time. Just have fire extinguisher, plenty of water and wet rags available,,,,, make sure insurance payed up.
rr

Put the ignitor down and step away from the torch. Split the damn thing with a grinder or sawzall

Dan

 

[Chanceywd]

I've seen people bend the HF version. My OTC brand hasn't had that problem. I've done all joints on Dana 30's, 44's, and 60's. And U joints on everything. It is easier to use the tool with 3 hands though. Just don't drop a cup and chase those needle bearings.
For U joints...
A standing press and the right adapters works too. Or a nice vise, right size socket and a dead blow hammer. But while it's mounted to the tractor, that little OTC press works wonders.
For ball joints...
It's tough to line up sometimes, but with the right adapters.... once it's right, it's golden.

I think i bought mine at Parts America, their name before changing to Advance auto around here. It has held up well for me. Bought it back when my 93 ranger needed its dana 35 ones done.

Bill

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

LOL....OMG...............According to the reviews, and yourself, I am clearly in the minority.

In my humble opinion, that could possibly be the most frustrating/worthless/POS tools ever made.

I think I bought mine (Mac tools) some where circa 1988-90 and has been taking up valuable space and giving me fits of rage ever since I bought it.

Out of the hundreds of times I've tried it, it has probably worked 35% of the time.

It finally stripped out about a month or 2 ago, so I am going to warranty it, and then off it.

Edit: (But then with my luck, I will need it for a job 2 weeks after I sell it, and it will be the "only tool" that will work and will have to re-buy it.....maybe I'll just warranty it, keep it, and let my SIL sell it when I am dead........)

Try using 3 hands, and a impact driver instead of trying to hold a ratchet or box end wrench. I use my Milwaukee Impact driver because it's faster and.... trying to balance the part, the tool, and a ratchet.... goes into the cuss jar.
And grease the threaded plunger rod!

And ya know, if you don't cut yourself or pinch a finger, the job wasn't done right! I manage to leave a little blood on most of my front axle projects.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'm in the camp that says to fully remove the 'retaining' pin THEN the yolk has to slide off.If it doesn't then secure it to tree or truck (straight,inline) then 1st gear low and go.

it took me 3 pulls with forklift to remove a stuck sleeve one day, AFTER 3 days of oil ,heat and sledgehammer time.

PTO splines are precise, so 'flushing' all the gunk in there is a must. brake cleaner, compressed air, ugh, wd-40, diesel....whatever you can get IN there will help.

 

[Henro]

If it doesn't then secure it to tree or truck (straight,inline) then 1st gear low and go.

Whoops! He says, after pulling the PTO shaft out of the back of the transmission housing...LOL

 

[Donystoy]

I certainly would not be putting any excessive force on the PTO. Hard to find parts for this vintage of tractor if damage is done. My favorite tool for these types of situations where all less aggressive attempts fail is to use an angle grinder with a thin cut off blade as suggested by Dan. Even if just the yoke part was removed so a puller could be used. The drive shaft can be easily replaced.

 

[jaxs]

If the yoke is cast iron like many it would probably crack if heated then quenched in cold water. Use 4,5" cutting disc to make cut line on opposite sides where you want it to crack,heat with rosebud then pour water on it. Get in and get out quick as possible to minimize heat on pto shaft seal.

 

[Soopitup]

If you can't get it off a grinder is probably your best bet.

Just a friendly tip,don't beat cups out,press them out. A vise and large sockets on the bench, cee clamp and sockets while on tractor or implement.

Always!
Beating it usually leads to bent ear(s) and vibration.
Though I guess that's less of a worry on a tractor.

 

[Chanceywd]

If the yoke is cast iron like many it would probably crack if heated then quenched in cold water. Use 4,5" cutting disc to make cut line on opposite sides where you want it to crack,heat with rosebud then pour water on it. Get in and get out quick as possible to minimize heat on pto shaft seal.

I think they are steel as the inner and outer shafts are welded to them.

Bill

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think they are steel as the inner and outer shafts are welded to them.

Bill

Cast steel or higher quality ones may be forged.

Dan