proud new owner of b2301 with some questions

[Lorduss]

just picked up a 2301 from the dealer over a week ago and love the tractor
primary use for me is snow removal so a PTO rear blower is eventually going on it

reading on the tractor I found some threads in here talking about how weak the front end 4wd is
one thread talking about not using chains on the front end because its to weak to handle it in the long run, another thread mentioning taking it out of 4wd on asphalt because it could break gears

with my old yanmar the only useful attachment I had was a box scraper, so that was first thing that went on the Kubota
pushing snow around I have been backing into snow piles as I lift the box ramping them up, the front axle doing most of the pushing in this instance, so I am assuming I shouldn't do this anymore?

I guess I am also skipping chains on the front end, what does break and how easy is it to fix if I needed to?
and I would assume such a fix is not covered under my warranty?

next question is the diff lock, I used it for the first time yesterday messing around and it seemed to get stuck, I was spinning a rear tire on wet asphalt while doing a tight turn and realized it was still locked, pulled straight engaged and disengaged and it seemed to pop out, is it normal for these things to be sticky new? I realize its a pin design and my old yanmar had a diff lock as well

and does anyone have any experience running a 50" blower on the rear of one of these machines? I bought the tractor as a upgrade to my Honda walk behind, I take care of a few homes other than mine and with the tractor speeding up the process I can add a few more for next year
but I am an odd ball here in lake Tahoe, its either walk behinds, skid steers with blowers or large loaders doing the work, the basic skip loader serves my purpose so I went with it but I am also not a normal contractor, the tractor is mostly for home use with snow clearing as a way to raise funds for it

also the front end loader, I have a lot of experience operating a big case skid steer at the tree company as well as a toro dingo, we abuse the hell out of these things and do a lot of work with the FEL on both machines that are border line abuse
just how strong is the FEL on my tractor compared to these? I baby my own personal stuff but at the same time I am not in that time is money crunch contractors are.

 

[85Hokie]

reading on the tractor I found some threads in here talking about how weak the front end 4wd is
one thread talking about not using chains on the front end because its to weak to handle it in the long run,

I DISAGREE ! PLACE CHAINS ON THE BUCKET AT POINTS WHERE THE CYLINDER MEETS THE BUCKET

another thread mentioning taking it out of 4wd on asphalt because it could break gears

DO NOT USE (VERY MUCH) ON SURFACES THAT WILL NOT ALLOW SLIPPAGE.
SO - SNOW, OK ! ICE OK !, DIRT - OK.....ASPHALT ......DONT DO IT TOO MUCH!
SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE IN A SITUATION TO GIVE A LITTLE

with my old yanmar the only useful attachment I had was a box scraper, so that was first thing that went on the Kubota
pushing snow around I have been backing into snow piles as I lift the box ramping them up, the front axle doing most of the pushing in this instance, so I am assuming I shouldn't do this anymore? KEEP ON TRUCKIN!

I guess I am also skipping chains on the front end, what does break and how easy is it to fix if I needed to?
and I would assume such a fix is not covered under my warranty?

next question is the diff lock, I used it for the first time yesterday messing around and it seemed to get stuck, I was spinning a rear tire on wet asphalt while doing a tight turn and realized it was still locked, pulled straight engaged and disengaged and it seemed to pop out, is it normal for these things to be sticky new?

YOU MIGHT NEED A LITTLE GREASE - BUT ENGAGE WHEN STOPPED AND IT SHOULD POP OUT (IN A STRAIGHT LINE) ONCE YOU LIFT OFF THE PEDAL

 

[fatjay]

I think he meant chains on the front tires, because if you grip with them it will put to much stress and break the insides.

I don't think there's any accuracy in that, but I may be wrong.

When changing from 4wd to 2wd, just as with the diff lock on/off, when I disengage them, I do it strait. back up 5' or so to take the pressure off it, then go forward. I do this with tractors, trucks, etc. I don't know how accurate it is for modern machines, but it's never let me down so I keep doing it.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I do it strait. back up 5' or so to take the pressure off it, then go forward. I do this with tractors, trucks, etc. I don't know how accurate it is for modern machines, but it's never let me down so I keep doing it.

The backing up thing was for unlocking the old mechanical automatic locking front hubs on 4wd trucks. I don't think tractors have such devices and on trucks now a days everything is electronically controlled. Different vehicles have different steps you should follow, read the owner's manual.

 

[Greenhead]

People generally put chains on the rear tires only of tractors. If fronts were added they would be on all wheels not fronts only. This is typically in severe situations if ever with a HD tractor. Safety is an issue for front chains as they run real close to the tie rod ends, also as a chain may break (it happens) it could lock or break steering parts . Front axle is designed to help the rears, they are not near as stout as the rear tractor axle.
When using chains you may be liable for damage done to pavement when the chains spin on a customer's driveway. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9501

Counter weight is important, either load the tires, wheel weights or add weight (lots of info. in forum).

FWD on dry pavement with any vehicle is not good. When turning, the revolutions of the front and rear tires are different and when the tires can't slip they put undo strain on the axle parts, tires (something has to give $$).

Rear diff. lock can sometimes stick because of the strain on the gears when locked as well as the FWD disengage (normal). A simple straight line backing up a few feet will usually do it.

 

[85Hokie]

"I think he meant chains on the front tires, because if you grip with them it will put to much stress and break the insides."

yup - read it too fast - you exactly right!

 

[Lorduss]

People generally put chains on the rear tires only of tractors. If fronts were added they would be on all wheels not fronts only. This is typically in severe situations if ever with a HD tractor. Safety is an issue for front chains as they run real close to the tie rod ends, also as a chain may break (it happens) it could lock or break steering parts . Front axle is designed to help the rears, they are not near as stout as the rear tractor axle.
When using chains you may be liable for damage done to pavement when the chains spin on a customer's driveway. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9501

Counter weight is important, either load the tires, wheel weights or add weight (lots of info. in forum).

FWD on dry pavement with any vehicle is not good. When turning, the revolutions of the front and rear tires are different and when the tires can't slip they put undo strain on the axle parts, tires (something has to give $$).

Rear diff. lock can sometimes stick because of the strain on the gears when locked as well as the FWD disengage (normal). A simple straight line backing up a few feet will usually do it.

I plan on making custom chains for the front from some old pairs I have sitting around, so I can take the time to keep them away from the front tie rods, and I understand they do break, I have been running chains on trucks for almost 15 years now and keep links to fix them because it does happen.
we received 6 feet of snow a week ago in 6 days, most roads were at 2-3 feet of snow for up to 3 days without a plow, my Silverado was getting stuck just trying to get to these houses, these are the kind of situations I need front chains for, this Kubota is going places my truck cant on those days

in my contract with people it is stated I am not liable for marks on the driveway, scrapes and marks from snow removal equipment is on every road and driveway in town, im tiny compared to the bobcats and holder tractors that do a lot of work in town and they are 3x the weight of me at a minimum and all run chains on all tires, even our motor graders that clear our roads run chains on all 6.

and the filled tires are coming as soon as I can find washer fluid under 2.50 a damn gallon, I have the fill valve already I just cant pay that much for that crap, looking for a sale

 

[sheepfarmer]

As unusual as it may seem on the forum, the dealer that sold me my b2650 with a front mounted snow blower suggested we put chains on the front wheels only. It has turf tires and loaded rear tires. I was concerned about a couple places on my drive that if you lose steering you can go off a small cliff, about 3 feet. The guy that used to do it with a pickup has done it a couple of times, but nothing I'd like to do with a little tractor. Pretty much none of my place is concrete or asphalt. The chains are really tight, installed with air out of the tires and then reinflated. I wouldn't worry about using them in front as well as back.

 

[MikeyA]

In all the years that I had my B2400, I never had front chains. We only had a couple major snow storms that were near the magnitude you speak of, but it went everywhere I needed to go with rear, 4 link chains. The worst storm iny memory was a 24" storm with blizzard conditions...took me 4 hours to dig my way to the road with the FEL. The rear blade was pretty useless until the 6ft plus drifts were pushed back, but was used to make final passes. If you have an FEL and get stuck, you can usually walk yourself backwards with the bucket. I think chains on the front could be of benefit, but the size of the front u joints from transmission to front differential are pretty small and dont look to easy to change. I'm guessing those would be the first thing to go, but Murphy's law will get involved at some point!!

 

[Tooljunkie]

I spent 6 winters plowing snow with a kubota L4610 with a backhoe. It went in snow to the floorboards,pushing snow from road deep into ditches. Never ever got it stuck. No chains.
I wouldnt chain front, but definetly the rears and rear ballast or snowblower or box blade.
Learn to unstuck yourself with bucket,and proceed with caution if you are in unknown territory.

 

[Missouribound]

Exactly how much snow do you get in California?
You already have most of the answers you need but let me reiterate.
You shouldn't use 4WD when on a solid surface....it's really that simple.
If you are slipping in 2WD...put in in 4WD. When you gain traction, take it out.
Normal usage will teach you faster than anything I can say. Tires will "scrub" on locked 4WD axles. When that happens it puts additional wear on the gears in the differential.
Chains? You most likely won't need them unless you are on ice. 4WD in snow is very sufficient in most scenarios. Your 50" blower will give you enough weight in the front and a ballast box in the rear (or heavy blade) will take care of most traction issues.
It snows in California????

 

[Lorduss]

Exactly how much snow do you get in California?
You already have most of the answers you need but let me reiterate.
You shouldn't use 4WD when on a solid surface....it's really that simple.
If you are slipping in 2WD...put in in 4WD. When you gain traction, take it out.
Normal usage will teach you faster than anything I can say. Tires will "scrub" on locked 4WD axles. When that happens it puts additional wear on the gears in the differential.
Chains? You most likely won't need them unless you are on ice. 4WD in snow is very sufficient in most scenarios. Your 50" blower will give you enough weight in the front and a ballast box in the rear (or heavy blade) will take care of most traction issues.
It snows in California????

We set snow records here, we got more than 10 feet of snow in the first 2 weeks of Jan at my house, allmost 3 feet in a little over 24 hours and the only thing uncommon about it is the fact we got it in Jan and not in March

 

[JustJeff]

There is no way in hell I'd be doing that with a walk behind. None, period.

 

[D2Cat]

Missouribound, you forgot it's a LONG state with some mountains! Gotta be snow somewhere!

 

[BAP]

With that much snow, I would be putting chains on all 4 tires and a snow blower. Running chains on all 4 wheels will only damage the front end if you abuse it, doing a lot of spinning.

 

[Lorduss]

With that much snow, I would be putting chains on all 4 tires and a snow blower. Running chains on all 4 wheels will only damage the front end if you abuse it, doing a lot of spinning.

yup, and this is why I am doing exactly that
plenty of snow removal jobs in town, and after this big winter people are blowing up my phone for more because the guy they had cant keep up, and I wont take on more jobs until I am properly setup to do so
so depending on just how well a blower on my Kubota works, ill be taking on a lot more houses next year

 

[sheepfarmer]

Smiling at the snow in California? comments. Lake Tahoe is in the Sierras, think the Donner party, and it sounds like they are having one of those winters. The highway between Sacramento and Reno is one of the few I've encountered where cars are REQUIRED to have chains on to go over the summit sometimes. I grew up in Reno, what we have around here in the midwest is pretty tame in comparison (with the exception of the occasional blizzard, lake effect snows, and the UP).

 

[Lorduss]

Just lifted the backend of my tractor off the ground to fill the tires with washer fluid, I felt a wobble driving the other day and just now i sat a trash can next to the rim with a 2x4 to measure runout
I'm getting allmost a quarter inch of wobble side to side in both rims
Is this normal ? I can tell if it's the rim or axle, I would assume and hope it's just the rim

 

[Juiced06GTO]

Torque the lug nuts, I am betting they loosened up. My dealer recommended checking them a few times during the first few hours of use as they are known to loosen up.