Project Dirtclod
- Thread starter Bonaro
- Start date
I say this every time I see a project like this...... Some folks can work wonders, and you are one of them. It's hard to believe what you did there. GREAT JOB!
Thank you, I like it.
I am almost done with the wiring, replaced a dozen or so butt connectors and some melted wire. Hopefully the charging system works. I picked up some LED lights for the ROPS and the replacement tach will be here Friday.
Its weird...I can rebuild an engine blindfolded but if I go to the store, I need a list if I am after more than 3 things
Can anyone tell me the proper mounting location for the voltage regulator on a L275?
The harness only allows it to a certain area but I find no place to bolt it down
The harness only allows it to a certain area but I find no place to bolt it down
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
On my L 185 the voltage regulator is under the “dash cowling”. It is mounted to the larger portion (cowling?) not the flatter portion that has the tach in it.
I think you can see it if you raise the hood, look toward the rear of the tractor and just just below where the hood would sit on the “dash cowling”
I think you can see it if you raise the hood, look toward the rear of the tractor and just just below where the hood would sit on the “dash cowling”
Thanks, Russell, On my L275 this area seems to be filled with the fuel tank, if I am reading you right. The length of the harness suggests I should mount it in the area marked in the pic. Unless you mean it should be tucked under the flat panel with the tach.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Not where you marked but up where the tach body is. In second picture look back past fuel cap into that small slot and see if you can see it.
That whole cowling and flat dash can be removed by taking four bolts off. They are at the bottom of the orange and screw upwards into the cowling. Of course you have to get the steering wheel of and disconnect the wire looms near the steering arm out of the steering box.
Most of my larger wire loom wraps around in the cowling to connect the starter switch, key switch, tach lights, fuse block and accessory switches, and the regulator.
I’ll see if I can find a picture. I just had mine off this past weekend but didn’t take any pictures. I know I took pictures before but may have deleted them.
That whole cowling and flat dash can be removed by taking four bolts off. They are at the bottom of the orange and screw upwards into the cowling. Of course you have to get the steering wheel of and disconnect the wire looms near the steering arm out of the steering box.
Most of my larger wire loom wraps around in the cowling to connect the starter switch, key switch, tach lights, fuse block and accessory switches, and the regulator.
I’ll see if I can find a picture. I just had mine off this past weekend but didn’t take any pictures. I know I took pictures before but may have deleted them.
That sounds like a pain to tuck it under the dash. I think I will fab a bracket to mount on the two bolts on the front of the tank. Much easier to work on.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There is a bracket already under that cowling to mount the regulator on and it is fairly easy to get it loose. You may not have to remove the steering wheel but even that is easily done especially if it has been removed recently.
But your location is good, you may need to brace for vibration or flutter on that bracket.
But your location is good, you may need to brace for vibration or flutter on that bracket.
I looked under the cowl and found no bracket other than the tab to mount the hazard flasher.
I fabbed a simple bracket and mounted it in front of the fuel tank...seems pretty solid
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Looks good!
The tach cable can be tied to the air inlet hose to help keep it a bit straight and inside the hood. Kubota would like about $8 for a metal tie but the 2 cent black tie wraps work well.
I painted all my lubricant port hardware red just to make it stand out. The oil fill port was one such part. I saw a picture of one the other day where just the top edge was red. That looks nice also.
Your tractor is looking great.
The tach cable can be tied to the air inlet hose to help keep it a bit straight and inside the hood. Kubota would like about $8 for a metal tie but the 2 cent black tie wraps work well.
I painted all my lubricant port hardware red just to make it stand out. The oil fill port was one such part. I saw a picture of one the other day where just the top edge was red. That looks nice also.
Your tractor is looking great.
Thank you. The devil is in the details. The oil fill, dipstick etc will all look good with some contrasting color on them. I may do that after I finish the wiring...hopefully I wont let out all the smoke. Getting close to being done. looking forward to getting it out of my garage
I finished the wiring harness, powered it up and damn, everything works. It even charges which is amazing considering the rust and corrosion that was inside the regulator.
My volt meter says its getting 14.2 volts at mid throttle but the charge light is still lit dimly.
It may be in a condition of overcharge but the light shouldn't be on in that state...I think
Whats up with this?
My volt meter says its getting 14.2 volts at mid throttle but the charge light is still lit dimly.
It may be in a condition of overcharge but the light shouldn't be on in that state...I think
Whats up with this?
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
If the alternator is anything like the one in a car, the charge light bulb is not just any bulb. It acts as resistor when the ignition switch is turned to "on" and the switch provides the voltage/current and its ground is the rotor field wiring which it is in series with and becomes an electromagnet at that point. As the engine starts and spins the alternator, the voltage generated by the alternator reaches the rotor field wiring and now what was the ground for the bulb has a voltage too. If the Voltage from the switch (probably 12v from the battery) is not exactly the same as the one on the field (probably 14.2v from the alternator) the light will glow. Ideally both voltages would be the same but we do not live in an ideal world. The solution is a bulb that needs more current before it light up but that still provides enough current to energize the field before starting the engine. Check all your grounds, if not probably a bulb with some more wattage should do.
Very good explanation of how that works, Thank you
The bulb is OEM and it came with the used tach I bought.
The regulator was ugly. It had water in it and was corroded. I cleaned the coils inside and carefully sand papered the contacts but it may be out of adjustment. The is the kind of reg that you have to bend the ears of the contact arms to adjust the cut in-out voltages...so pretty old school.
If the regulator is out of adjustment and causing an over-charge condition, would this cause the light to glow?
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
I don't think that it is overcharging, possibly the opposite in a worst case. But it is not too far off, I would not get overly excited.
Check this out from page 19 on of the PDF:
Also, it might not be a bad idea to check the alternator output with the voltmeter set to "AC rather than DC" voltage. If you read an AC voltage might be an indication of a bad diode.
Check this out from page 19 on of the PDF:
Also, it might not be a bad idea to check the alternator output with the voltmeter set to "AC rather than DC" voltage. If you read an AC voltage might be an indication of a bad diode.
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Pretty much finished with this. I still have a couple switches on order for the overhead lights. Got all of the hydraulic leaks sealed up, found a tiny fuel leak, fixed that. The PTO clutch is still stuck but I will live with that until next winter and split the tractor then.
I think it turned out pretty well considering the original condition.
Time to give my neighbors some tractor envy...
I think it turned out pretty well considering the original condition.
Time to give my neighbors some tractor envy...
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
Thank you
I'm pretty happy with it, especially considering what it looked like to begin with
pokey1416
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L4060HSTC, BH92 Backhoe, HLA Snow Pusher, Dirt Dog Tiller, EA DiscHarrow
Stunning! Very impressive you’ve brought it back to life. You are a master of your craft for sure.