Practicals of Skidding Winch Operation

NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
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Central Piedmont, NC
Added a Farmi W50R to the stable of implements a few months back. I’ve rigged and pulled trees as a part of felling and skidding with farm/utility type tractors for many years. Always drawbar pulls. Have used electric self recovery winches such as are common on pickup trucks a fair amount for various chores as well. The Farmi is an exponential improvement. With a grapple on the front and Farmi on the back, manipulating trees and pieces of trees is very efficient.

While my prior experience is certainly helpful, a skidding winch on a utility type tractor is a bit of a different animal. I have no prior experience with them and don’t personally know anyone local to me that has experience with them.

Of course I’ve read the manual (attached) a time or three. Basics of operation “appear” to be pretty simple: pull in a straight line; redirect with snatch blocks if angled pulls needed; configure to keep heavy stresses such as hard pulls low (don’t over stress the toplink); stay out of the “danger zone” (clearly described in the manual); pull logs to the tractor, lift, drive away; if you need more line pull, throw a snatch block on the end of the line and find a good anchor so your line pull is doubled. But a recent post by @g_man about wrapping the cable to force a roll to get a log around a stump got me to thinking it might be useful to try to get some wisdom of experience for both safety and efficiency without having to suffer through all the hours to get it by myself. That and when I first got it I don’t think I knew enough to know what to ask. Now, some of my questions may be dumb, but at least I have questions.

So two prongs of inquiry:

1. If you have any swell tips or tricks for safe, efficient use I’d really like to hear them.

2. A few specific questions:

Do you ever lubricate the cable? I’m aware there are specific lubricants made for wire rope but the manual says nothing about lubricating the cable.

Do you ever wash / clean the cable? If yes: when, why, how?

I’m aware cleaning and lubricating wire rope is SOP for some uses, but this is a 11,000lb winch that lives inside when the weather is nasty. It isn’t the main tow line on a saltwater tug boat.

When skidding (not winching; driving with logs in tow), do you pull from the top sheave, the lower sheave, or the chain rack (the thing the manual calls the notched beam)? If it varies, what factors cause it to vary? (I’m aware of what the manual says and am not disagreeing with it. Simply asking practical application by those with experience.)

Do you ever operate the winch from the tractor seat? If yes, how do you route the ropes to make that practical? I have thought about mounting a couple little sheaves on the ROPs but haven’t tried anything yet.

Do you have any preference of PTO rpm aside from simply controlling return speed?

If you need to reel in a good bit of cable without a load, how do you keep it tight enough to not bind in a hard pull on a shorter run? (I have a couple methods, but not sure they’re all that great.)

For a long pull, how do you make sure you’re leaving a couple wraps on the drum and not pulling out too much cable? I step it off but maybe there’s a better method.

Just to be clear, the questions are about a skidding winch on a farm/utility tractor like this:
IMG_2233.jpeg

It’s not about a winch like this, whether mounted on a tractor or not.
IMG_3814.jpeg

Nothing against the electric winch. It’s kind of a ton and a half pickup v a ton and a half dump thing. Lots of similarities and overlap, yet not quite the same thing when you put them to work.

In the interest of kicking off the tips, here’s one for folks like me that had a little or a lot of rigging prior to an upgrade. Some of my rigging was sized for a smaller tractor and was pre-winch. If you upgrade your max line pull, it’s a good idea to review the specs and condition of all your rigging to make sure it can handle the increased potential pressure with an appropriate safety factor. No harm done, but I busted a couple things before doing that review due to a quite unscientific and ill advised “ain’t no way it will break that” attitude. A few things were purchased to replace items that were retired.

Thanks in advance.
 

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MapleLeafFarmer

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Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
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I use my Wallenstein winch a lot. here are a few of my musings addressing your questions:

- the Farmi W50R is a fantastic quality winch. I have seen quit a few over the years and they hold up very well.
- if you think you are approaching a "full pull" definitely consider using a double line/pully.
- if pulling at 50% or more capacity head the warnings of pulling as straight as possible. Cann't tell you how many neighbours I know have made significant damage by angled pulls. Bad things will happen when stuff under 5 tonnes of load are not respected. Bad stuff can and will happen quickly and when least expected.
- beware the rops/winch shield clearances. Lift the 3 pt too high can make contact with each other on just about all I have ever seen. If a cabbed tractor is in use this error can get expensive quickly.
- I do not pull through wet areas or mud. i live in a sandy area so I have never had to clean my cables other than a couple of simple rinses. I do treat my cables on rare occasion with wire rope lube. Comes in 1 gallon jugs from my local farm store. If really dirty like after pulling through a swamp a quick rinse won't hurt. Treat afterwards if worried its quick a cheap. Corrosion is not a friend of wire rope. In the fall when I put the winch away for the cold winter I simply pour some on the drummed up wire and it works its way through the cable good enough that after decades my cable is still a 9 out of 10.
- keep your wire on the drum tightly wound. I have never had a birds nest myself and my rope is still 9/10 for condition after thousands of pulls. A loosely wound cable on a drum when a heavy pull is made can crush the cable quickly and ruin it quickly.
- when skidding I always use chokers on the choker slots. i never trust just the cable brake lock. Not sure if this is right or wrong but never had problem doing this.
- I never work mine from the tractor seat as I would be in the line of fire if a cable break occurs. Could I ??? yes... but don't want to get hit by flying cable if one breaks.
- once in a while if I know my wire is loose on the drum I will spool it out, attach to a tree or other strong anchor, put tractor in N, drop my grapple for drag, and pull the cable in nice and tight. Tractor gets pulled backwards to the anchor point and cable is then nice and tight.
- on long pulls if 100% of the cable is pulled out operationally when you take up the slack you get the 3 wraps or so needed. Doubtful even a crew of guys can rig so tight that the slack wouldn't be enough to wrap the drum once a pull is started. If you do pull 100% out simply make sure when you start your pull you see the cable start to feed in before resistance of the load met.

edit: added link


you made a great choice that can last a lifetime if stored under cover with very little maintenance required.
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,824
4,304
113
Central Piedmont, NC
I use my Wallenstein winch a lot. here are a few of my musings addressing your questions:

- the Farmi W50R is a fantastic quality winch. I have seen quit a few over the years and they hold up very well.
- if you think you are approaching a "full pull" definitely consider using a double line/pully.
- if pulling at 50% or more capacity head the warnings of pulling as straight as possible. Cann't tell you how many neighbours I know have made significant damage by angled pulls. Bad things will happen when stuff under 5 tonnes of load are not respected. Bad stuff can and will happen quickly and when least expected.
- beware the rops/winch shield clearances. Lift the 3 pt too high can make contact with each other on just about all I have ever seen. If a cabbed tractor is in use this error can get expensive quickly.
- I do not pull through wet areas or mud. i live in a sandy area so I have never had to clean my cables other than a couple of simple rinses. I do treat my cables on rare occasion with wire rope lube. Comes in 1 gallon jugs from my local farm store. If really dirty like after pulling through a swamp a quick rinse won't hurt. Treat afterwards if worried its quick a cheap. Corrosion is not a friend of wire rope. In the fall when I put the winch away for the cold winter I simply pour some on the drummed up wire and it works its way through the cable good enough that after decades my cable is still a 9 out of 10.
- keep your wire on the drum tightly wound. I have never had a birds nest myself and my rope is still 9/10 for condition after thousands of pulls. A loosely wound cable on a drum when a heavy pull is made can crush the cable quickly and ruin it quickly.
- when skidding I always use chokers on the choker slots. i never trust just the cable brake lock. Not sure if this is right or wrong but never had problem doing this.
- I never work mine from the tractor seat as I would be in the line of fire if a cable break occurs. Could I ??? yes... but don't want to get hit by flying cable if one breaks.
- once in a while if I know my wire is loose on the drum I will spool it out, attach to a tree or other strong anchor, put tractor in N, drop my grapple for drag, and pull the cable in nice and tight. Tractor gets pulled backwards to the anchor point and cable is then nice and tight.
- on long pulls if 100% of the cable is pulled out operationally when you take up the slack you get the 3 wraps or so needed. Doubtful even a crew of guys can rig so tight that the slack wouldn't be enough to wrap the drum once a pull is started. If you do pull 100% out simply make sure when you start your pull you see the cable start to feed in before resistance of the load met.

edit: added link


you made a great choice that can last a lifetime if stored under cover with very little maintenance required.
Thank you. The wire rope guide was very informative, as was your post.
 

BAP

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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Dec 31, 2012
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I have never washed or lubricated a cable on a winch. I have an Farmi winch that is an older version of what you are showing, but in a previous life, ran both a dozer and skidder logging. Definitely, on the tractor winches, be very careful on how you pull. Keep the tractor square to the direction of the pull or you will join the bottom up club. Also, pulling off the top pulley directly can cause damage to the top case of the tractor where the top link attaches.
 
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g_man

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L3010DT, M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G
Feb 3, 2023
165
751
93
NE Vermont
Things vary a lot with the terrain, hitch size, weight of tractor, and trail conditions - wet, dry, or sharp turns; so no one method is always the best which I am sure you know. These are my thoughts -

Cable lube - My Farmi manual specifically says Do Not Oil the cable. It may migrate to the clutch surface and hold dirt in the cable. I have never lubed mine. The most I do is reel it in through a heavy leather gloved hand. Every once in a while I string the cable out from a slider (so it can untwist) on a tree and let it hang off the ground over night. It gets the twists out and lets it relax. I go over it with a glove and nip off any protruding wires I feel with a pair of dikes.

Skidding - I only skid from the top pulley with very small loads. If skidding from the top be careful on sharp turns. It is very easy to get pulled over sideways. I skid from the lower pulley leaving the logs on the cable. This is for operational efficiency only. But it costs me in maintenance. It is hard on the cable end and I have cut off 3' or so and redo the end every once in a while. Looking at your winch picture the lower pulley is at the same height as the rack so no or little difference safety wise.

Seat operation - The only time I do this is when I have to drop a hitch during a skid to get the tractor through a bad spot and then winch the hitch through to the tractor. The winch control rope runs through a pair of key retractors on the ROPS and the brake rope is through an old work light bracket. So the ropes are hanging right behind me.

AxHanger2.JPG



RMP - Usually about 1400. Speed is my lowest priority in the woods. Too many things to keep track of at one time and problems can happen very fast.

Reeling slack cable - Reel it through a leather glove. I keep in mind how much loose cable is on the drum and tighten it with a pull when convenient. Usually squeezing the glove on it is enough to keep me out of trouble.

Just what I do.

gg
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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Good day.

I am curious from the winchers what type of gear you have collected over the years and what works best for you and would not want to be without it. What is your most useful gear you would drive back to the barn to get if you forgot it? (Ie. Tools, equipment, or gear used before, during, and after the winch operation)

Also how are you hauling or attaching all your tools/gear to your tractor to bring to the work area?

Any pics of your kit & haul / attachment method would be appreciated. ☕
 
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NCL4701

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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,824
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113
Central Piedmont, NC
My winch and what has become my standard kit is mostly pictured above: two 15k tree saver straps hung on the left peg, two cheap (Tractor Supply) 20k snatch blocks and two 22k shackles on the right peg, the two chokers that came with the winch and a couple plastic wedges in the pockets on each side of the winch behind the notched bar, a 25’ x 3/8” grade 70 chain for things the chokers are too short to wrap, chainsaw in the hammer strap on left side, saw oil clipped onto screen. Cant hook; saw gas; and a cooler with drinks, gloves, and any other smalls is carried in the grapple. For hard double line pulls, I add one or two 1/2” x 6’ grade 70 chains to use past the snatch block, but I don’t carry them routinely.

Helmet hangs on the peg with snatch blocks and chaps hang over the top sheave on hot days when I prefer to not wear them on the way to and from the work site.
 
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Grandad4

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1949 Farmall M, previously owned: L 4610, BX 2230
Apr 5, 2016
329
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Greensboro, NC
About the handiest piece of gear I used with the logging winch was the self-releasing snatch block. A snatch block enables the winch to pull in any direction using a pulley attached to some anchor point. But a standard snatch block requires you to open up the pulley to insert the cable before each pull, then open it again to release the cable. The self-releasing one automatically releases the cable when the log approaches. Makes getting around other trees, ledges, etc. way much easier. Maybe they are common and affordable these days, but when I did this years ago, they were less common and pricey. Mine was a Farmi.
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
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About the handiest piece of gear I used with the logging winch was the self-releasing snatch block. A snatch block enables the winch to pull in any direction using a pulley attached to some anchor point. But a standard snatch block requires you to open up the pulley to insert the cable before each pull, then open it again to release the cable. The self-releasing one automatically releases the cable when the log approaches. Makes getting around other trees, ledges, etc. way much easier. Maybe they are common and affordable these days, but when I did this years ago, they were less common and pricey. Mine was a Farmi.
Good day.

I am not sure what ‘less affordable’ means, but I ordered one a few weeks ago and ‘less affordable’ did not come to mind when I got the quote for it nor when I agreed to the price and most certainly not when I had the money wired from my bank. 😉

However based on some other posts on here and some videos that I watched I decided to go ahead and get that as an accessory when I ordered the winch. I hope I get some good use out of it. ☕
 

Grandad4

Active member

Equipment
1949 Farmall M, previously owned: L 4610, BX 2230
Apr 5, 2016
329
85
28
Greensboro, NC
Good day.

I am not sure what ‘less affordable’ means, but I ordered one a few weeks ago and ‘less affordable’ did not come to mind when I got the quote for it nor when I agreed to the price and most certainly not when I had the money wired from my bank. 😉

However based on some other posts on here and some videos that I watched I decided to go ahead and get that as an accessory when I ordered the winch. I hope I get some good use out of it. ☕
Good decision! Very handy accessory! I worked alone quite often and the Farmi snatch block saved me a lot of back & forth walking over rough ground. Hope yours works out well also!
 
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nbryan

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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
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Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Just stay well out of the way of the line of sight of a taught cable that can break and take whatever body part is in the way clean off.
 
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g_man

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L3010DT, M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G
Feb 3, 2023
165
751
93
NE Vermont
You guys have the essentials pretty much covered. The picture in post #5 pretty much shows how I carry some stuff. I have gas and oil here-


GasOil-3.jpg


Two saws - 16" light weight 50 cc go to saw.

SawScabbard4.jpg


and 24" saw.

AxeBrkt-2.JPG


Essentials in tool box are files, wrenches, and wedges.


Other handy items I carry - a block for double line pull. Better cable retention when cable goes slack.

P1000300-1.JPG



If a don't trust a wedge for directional felling, because of rot say, I use a snatch block. Often the block placement wants to be in an opening. So it requires a long strap. If I need to splice two straps.


23_3_18-1c.JPG



I put a section of 1" dowel in the joint so they come apart easy

23_3_18-4.JPG


A choker grabber is handy with big stuff. Shove it under the log and pull the choker under.

ChokerGrabHook.JPG



I welded a point on the snatch block to make it easy to set up. Put the strap on the tree w/o the heavy block to hinder then hang the block,


SnatchBlk3.JPG



SnatchBlk4.JPG



gg
 
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rc51stierhoff

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B2650, MX6000, Ford 8N, (BX sold)
Sep 13, 2021
2,610
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Ohio
You guys have the essentials pretty much covered. The picture in post #5 pretty much shows how I carry some stuff. I have gas and oil here-


View attachment 143351

Two saws - 16" light weight 50 cc go to saw.

View attachment 143352

and 24" saw.

View attachment 143353

Essentials in tool box are files, wrenches, and wedges.


Other handy items I carry - a block for double line pull. Better cable retention when cable goes slack.

View attachment 143354


If a don't trust a wedge for directional felling, because of rot say, I use a snatch block. Often the block placement wants to be in an opening. So it requires a long strap. If I need to splice two straps.


View attachment 143355


I put a section of 1" dowel in the joint so they come apart easy

View attachment 143356

A choker grabber is handy with big stuff. Shove it under the log and pull the choker under.

View attachment 143357


I welded a point on the snatch block to make it easy to set up. Put the strap on the tree w/o the heavy block to hinder then hang the block,


View attachment 143363


View attachment 143364


gg
Thanks…my Christmas list just got longer. (Those sure look like Labonville chaps 👍)
 

g_man

Well-known member

Equipment
L3010DT, M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G
Feb 3, 2023
165
751
93
NE Vermont
Thanks…my Christmas list just got longer. (Those sure look like Labonville chaps 👍)

That they are. My helmet too. We have a pretty good local real hardware with logging supplies like chokers, Chain, clevises, and etc but I like Labonville for a lot of stuff. Only about an hour drive.

gg
 
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Yotekiller

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Kubota L2502, LP 60" BB, LP pallet forks, 60" KK Tiller, 55" HSI root grapple
Sep 29, 2023
396
454
63
Southern Indiana
This is one implement I definitely plan to eventually.
 

JollyRancher

New member

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B2601, 2650, L3302, 4600 & R520S
Dec 12, 2024
2
2
3
Humboldt Cnty, CA
Good day.

I am curious from the winchers what type of gear you have collected over the years and what works best for you and would not want to be without it. What is your most useful gear you would drive back to the barn to get if you forgot it? (Ie. Tools, equipment, or gear used before, during, and after the winch operation)

Also how are you hauling or attaching all your tools/gear to your tractor to bring to the work area?

Any pics of your kit & haul / attachment method would be appreciated. ☕
Short handled peavy to clear the pull from a stump or tree, they're like magnets no matter how you planned the pull.
 
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