the biocide I can see if it sits for a bit. however you brought up another question I had. an old Case Construction tractor I used from time to time never had a working fuel gauge, so occasionally it would run out of fuel......which was a serious pain in the ass to get started once you got fresh fuel in it. (crack open fuel injector lines, ether fluid to crank it just a bit etc.) obviously you are NOT supposed to use ether on the new stuff, and I don't believe you can get to the fuel feed lines as easy. so IF this were to happen on my tractor, would it be as simple as just putting fuel in it and starting it? or is there a fuel system bleed procedure?
Paint faded on l4060. Options or advice?
- Thread starter virginiavenom
- Start date
Do NOT even think to use ether on any Kubota old or new
You don't have to worry about line bleeding on either your tractor or mine. There is a stopcock just above the water separator in the fuel line so you can empty and clean it, and change the fuel filter easily. Because of the electronic pump it just takes cranking to clear out the lines. Directions in owners manual. I didn't believe it could be that easy so I insisted on going out and watching the tech do it at my dealers and it actually worked
.Stop by and pick up your owner's manual and read it from cover to cover BEFORE you take delivery and then you can ask questions. There is a ton of complicated stuff on these new tractors, a lot to take in in a 10 minute drop off lesson.
Enjoy your new tractor, it is a really fine machine!
Found it! My local Kubota Dealer swears by stuff called "Dakota Shine"
http://dakotashine.com/
Haven't tried it myself, but their before and after pics are impressive:
http://dakotashine.com/before-after/
If anyone does give it a shot, it would be cool to see a review. Looks like it costs about $60 for 32 sq ft or a 'small garden tractor', $110 for 100 sq foot or a 'medium sized truck or tractor.'
Done. Lol. Ahhhh. This thing is awesome and a long time coming. 5 trees planted in 10 minutes. Feed moved easily. Dual Hay spear at the ready. Slip clutch 6 foot brush hog. Pallet forks. Box blade. And a fel hydraulic powered post hole auger. No 3 point crap. Worked marvelously. Tiller chain harrow. Landscape rake and spreader and sprayer is on the list. Maybe a backhoe in the future. So much to do. But the list just got a lot easier.
2 questions. Isn't there supposed to be a chain on the mower pto shaft?
Which of the 2 bolt pins do I have to remove to fold the ROPS. I have to fold it to put it away. Hopefully you don't have to screw in and unscrew every time. That would suck. There is a front grill guard led light bar too. Lots to learn on this tractor. I can't say enough about the same post hole digger. But they gave me a 10-15gpm motor. It spins a little slow. But not bad I think. Any issues being the 4060 is at like 9.5 gpm.
2 questions. Isn't there supposed to be a chain on the mower pto shaft?
Which of the 2 bolt pins do I have to remove to fold the ROPS. I have to fold it to put it away. Hopefully you don't have to screw in and unscrew every time. That would suck. There is a front grill guard led light bar too. Lots to learn on this tractor. I can't say enough about the same post hole digger. But they gave me a 10-15gpm motor. It spins a little slow. But not bad I think. Any issues being the 4060 is at like 9.5 gpm.
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also.....where EXACTLY should I tie this beast down with chains. they had it through the 3 point and stabilizers on the back and behind the grill guard with 3/8s chains. I'm guessing they did it wrong.....I was too excited to notice. didn't move though, they had the thing in 4wd and brakes locked down really hard.....not that it's much comfort as I don't believe the 3 point would have held up to much of anything, but it was an easy 30 minute drive on a nice smooth highway.....no traffic. but I want to be sure it is done right every time when I do move it.
Congratulations! Nice tractor.
You remove the one with the "hair clip" looking safety pin. They can be removed by hand after the first time by wrench. It (the bolt) stores in that extra hole to the rear and the ROPS will only fold down half way to keep it off the implement or 3 point if hooked up. Or you can fold it all the way down but really no reason too I can think of if you leave that bolt out.
Mine, I had to screw in and out a few times and still wiggle the top part slightly to back the bolts in and out. I have a low clearance garage door also. You should put some kinda corrosion inhibitor on those bolts for the long haul too.