Paint decisions opinions

Yooper

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I am restoring my old Farmall H and I can’t decide on how to paint it. When I finish the engine should I paint it when I can get in all the nooks and crannies and then cover it while I work on other parts, or do I wait until it is all assembled and do it all at once? Should I prime the parts as I go and then give it the top coat after assembly? Spray bomb the nooks and crannies and then do the whole works all assembled with a final coat(s)?

I would like to use some good durable paint but I really don’t like the idea of mixing paint for small batches and then leaving it sit for months before I use it again. Hoping some of you out there have been through this already and can steer me right.
 

fried1765

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I am restoring my old Farmall H and I can’t decide on how to paint it. When I finish the engine should I paint it when I can get in all the nooks and crannies and then cover it while I work on other parts, or do I wait until it is all assembled and do it all at once? Should I prime the parts as I go and then give it the top coat after assembly? Spray bomb the nooks and crannies and then do the whole works all assembled with a final coat(s)?

I would like to use some good durable paint but I really don’t like the idea of mixing paint for small batches and then leaving it sit for months before I use it again. Hoping some of you out there have been through this already and can steer me right.
You WILL get SOME opinions!
 

jaxs

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You WILL get SOME opinions!
All of them the best and you can choose the one that works best for you. My "BEST WAY" is prime anything that is prone to rust with rattle can,paint items with rattle can that are different color and must be reinstalled. Large items that are different color like seat,grill and starter are not painted and reinstalled until main parts of tractor have been painted. Near the end of reassembly I wipe everything down with pre-cleano and finish with hvlp.
 
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fried1765

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All of them the best and you can choose the one that works best for you. My "BEST WAY" is prime anything that is prone to rust with rattle can,paint items with rattle can that are different color and must be reinstalled. Large items that are different color like seat,grill and starter are not painted and reinstalled until main parts of tractor have been painted. Near the end of reassembly I wipe everything down with pre-cleano and finish with hvlp.
My "best way" is to avoid rattle cans in all cases!
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I personally put a coat or two and everything as I go. then do a final top cost if they are the same color.
I have several HVPL guns and mixing supplies, so mixing what I need and shooting it, is easy for me.

Follow the manufactures direction on primer or not.
Use plugs for any threaded bolt holes that need to installed after paint.

This is what I've use, very good paint!
 
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jaxs

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Fried and Wolf's way is great if you don't mind wasting paint and cleaning equipment several times as misc parts are being painted. Tractor jockeys just spray everything the same color in a single go around.
 

Runs With Scissors

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I have never really "restored" anything, but I think "as you go" sounds like what I would do for 2 reasons.

1. If you get "sidetracked" then you have kind of "saved your place" in regards to keeping rust/corrosion at bay.

2. One can tell if someone just sprays the whole thing, at one time. I don't know exactly how to put it, but it looks....well in a lot of cases, it just looks like a "short cut was taken"

I will say that I do like it when some parts are "tastefully" done in different colors too.

Good luck and remember the Golden Rule: Pics....or it didn't happen. (y)
 
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GreensvilleJay

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If you're 'restoring' the tractor, simply paint it as they did in the factory,but use a single stage urethane paint. You can probably find 'how they did it' somewhere on the Internet, I've seen lots of assembly line footage for other tractors.
Obviously you paint the rims, inside and out, before the tires and tubes go on. An epoxy based primer would be nice,especially if you decide to fill the rears with calcium.
 
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will721

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If you're 'restoring' the tractor, simply paint it as they did in the factory,but use a single stage urethane paint. You can probably find 'how they did it' somewhere on the Internet, I've seen lots of assembly line footage for other tractors.
Obviously you paint the rims, inside and out, before the tires and tubes go on. An epoxy based primer would be nice,especially if you decide to fill the rears with calcium.
This ^

Mosy people get caught up in restorations and over do things. Manufacturers cut costs wherever they can. Often times spray bombing the whole thing all at once isn't just the easy way, but they "correct" way to restore it.

That said of course, it is better to do it as others have stated. The more time you spend and attention to detail you have the better the final outcome and the longer the restoration will last. But then it may not be correct and the purists will whine about it.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
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Fried and Wolf's way is great if you don't mind wasting paint and cleaning equipment several times as misc parts are being painted. Tractor jockeys just spray everything the same color in a single go around.
When I paint a piece of equipment, my goal is to do the best possible, and most durable job.
I do not think for a moment about how much paint I might save....... to go bad in the can.
I always use OEM part colors!
 
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D2Cat

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Here's a tractor I painted without having it totally disassembled. Cleaned it, protected all areas I didn't want paint on. I had the wheels off and tractor setting on blocks. Use good paint with hardener. I had the fenders off and the fuel tank cover, so I painted all the orange at one time and the blue/gray another time.
 

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fj40dave

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1697384026640.png


Just don't do this!

:)
 
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fried1765

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Here's a tractor I painted without having it totally disassembled. Cleaned it, protected all areas I didn't want paint on. I had the wheels off and tractor setting on blocks. Use good paint with hardener. I had to fenders off and the fuel tank cover, so I painted all the orange at one time and the blue/gray another time.
Very professional job!
OBVIOUSLY.........NOT rattle cans!
 

RCW

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I don’t have any sage advice, but look forward to your progress! (y)
 
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GreensvilleJay

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automotive paint will stay fine in the can for years. It's only AFTER you've added hardener that the 'clock has started'.
 

Yooper

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Here's a tractor I painted without having it totally disassembled. Cleaned it, protected all areas I didn't want paint on. I had the wheels off and tractor setting on blocks. Use good paint with hardener. I had to fenders off and the fuel tank cover, so I painted all the orange at one time and the blue/gray another time.
This ^

Mosy people get caught up in restorations and over do things. Manufacturers cut costs wherever they can. Often times spray bombing the whole thing all at once isn't just the easy way, but they "correct" way to restore it.

That said of course, it is better to do it as others have stated. The more time you spend and attention to detail you have the better the final outcome and the longer the restoration will last. But then it may not be correct and the purists will whine about it.
And that’s where I am right now. Do I restore it to look like it came from the factory or do I go the extra mile and give it the bling factor. Not concerned with pinching pennies on this at all. I just don’t know what my goal is. I figure a parade tractor but I can see myself doing one and that’s it. Same with a tractor show. All I know for sure is I’m having the time of my life doing the restoration and getting to play with all the machines I have collected in my lifetime!
 

D2Cat

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Very professional job!
OBVIOUSLY.........NOT rattle cans!
Thanks. It actually came out better than I imagined. I hate painting!!

This tractor had been in a barn where the barn caught fire. Tractor had been setting outside 4 years after the fire when I bought it. It looked SAD. When I brought it home I couldn't figure out how to get the metal dash removed from the top of the fuel tank and found this forum. I posted a couple of pictures to show what I needed help with but the comments I got were to the effect it must be a labor of love because it will never run.

I eventually got it figured out. Went down to Beebe, Arkansas and bought a loader, modified it and built the mounting hardware, installed a nice new seat, new IP, tires and some small items.
 

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jaxs

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Good job putting it back in operation D2. From looking at those pictures I'd say the previous owner narrowly dodged a bullet, luckily fire never reached fuel tank.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
As long as YOU are having fun, finish it the way YOU want just know it'll cost more than you think.... You can easily dump 5-7K into 'painting' but if you don't replace that $5 seal that leaks a drip once a day, your overall paint job is ruined. Every one is different, I'm not into 'trailer queens' prefer to USE tractors,so they will have dirt, grease,grime on them, 24/7. My BX23s is no exception,worn off paint, ripped seat,dusty and greasy. Anyone who wants it to be 'show room condition' can use their elbow grease to make it 'purdy'.