Overheating UTV 1120D

[BBOTTENS]

we have a 2014 UTV 1120D that overheats. the thing has me stumped. engine water gets hot (too Hot) to the point guage is toppiing out. One of our guys ran it long enough it cracked the head. So ordered new head and put it on. Now watching it, it still gets hot but we shut of when it gets too high.
Now the baffling part. radiator is absolutely cold as outside temperature. we put in new thermostat with the new head , water pump looks pristine too. but the hoses off water pump are cold.
is there a possibility of air lock. as the lines between pump and radiator are lower than the pump and radiator. we put in antifreeze in till full, run a little then put more in.
this is driving me somewhat crazy. couple dealers said just bring it in, but there has to be a simple explanation for this.

what say you

 

[85Hokie]

I would take out thermostat. UNHOOK radiator - take garden hose and place on one end and seal it the best you can and see if water moves through the block.

Sounds like you have a restriction in the block. OR the block cracked when the head cracked !

 

[whitetiger]

we have a 2014 UTV 1120D that overheats. the thing has me stumped. engine water gets hot (too Hot) to the point guage is toppiing out. One of our guys ran it long enough it cracked the head. So ordered new head and put it on. Now watching it, it still gets hot but we shut of when it gets too high.
Now the baffling part. radiator is absolutely cold as outside temperature. we put in new thermostat with the new head , water pump looks pristine too. but the hoses off water pump are cold.
is there a possibility of air lock. as the lines between pump and radiator are lower than the pump and radiator. we put in antifreeze in till full, run a little then put more in.
this is driving me somewhat crazy. couple dealers said just bring it in, but there has to be a simple explanation for this.

what say you

Did you open the coolant bleeder valve while filling the radiator?

 

[BBOTTENS]

I would take out thermostat. UNHOOK radiator - take garden hose and place on one end and seal it the best you can and see if water moves through the block.

Sounds like you have a restriction in the block. OR the block cracked when the head cracked !

we thought we looked real carefully for a crack in block but did not see anything suspicious
thermostat opens readily when heated externally, the only thing i can think of is the air lock
will admit i have not looked real close for a bleeder valve on hose on front of engine, will look for that tomorrow the hoses going to the heater are cold also, if that helps define anything. never dealt with anything that has the multi level pipe that could restrict the air moving through them.

 

[BBOTTENS]

Did you open the coolant bleeder valve while filling the radiator?

Did not know there was a coolant bleeder valve on it but does make sense. talked to three dealers and they said they had no idea, just bring it in

thought it should be something simple.

 

[motorhead]

Was the engine ever left with the coolant hoses off? The reason I ask is that I had a 1950 Dodge dump truck that I bought years ago and mice had built a nest in the top tank of the radiator. The engine blew a head gasket on me when it over heated. It wasn't until I pulled the radiator out, turned it upside down and back flushed it from the bottom tank through to the top tank. I pulled a bunch of seat padding out through the radiator neck and top fitting on the rad. Damn engine almost ran too cold after that!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I can't help with any specifics about that engine, but a "relatively cheap" way to avoid an air lock in the cooling system is use one of those "vacuum fillers"

I bought one specifically because I was working on a Ford that kept overheating.

There was something about the design of that motor that it would air lock, unless you elevated the front end, spun around on your head 3 times, while eating soda crackers and whistling Dixie while refilling....

Instead, I just bought one of these......

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have never had a problem since, and it makes refilling a coolant system quick and clean.

There are cheaper ones out the too, but this is the one I have.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I would take a gander at the water pump again. I don't know those engines, but many small ones like to shear the shaft. They will stay together, but you can spin the impeller independent of the shaft.

 

[Vince1230]

I would think air in system is a good check.

 

[whitetiger]

Did not know there was a coolant bleeder valve on it but does make sense. talked to three dealers and they said they had no idea, just bring it in

thought it should be something simple.

Open the coolant air bleeder (#60) and when filling the radiator, close it when coolant starts to seep out. It is mounted behind the driver's seat, in front of the bed.
You will find the system holds more coolant and the coolant can circulate, cooling the engine. This bleeder is on all diesel X series.

For future reference, your unit is an RTV-X1120D. This makes a huge difference for parts and service.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Deleted. Glitch in the matrix posted twice hours apart...

 

[BBOTTENS]

Did not know there was a coolant bleeder valve on it but does make sense. talked to three dealers and they said they had no idea, just bring it in

thought it should be something simple.

Whitetiger, thanks to you i got it going

Well as soon as i followed the little hose up into the ROPS I found that little bleeder valve hiding in there. opened it up, air came out, put more antifreeze in till full, started it up and it started circulating as the temparature of hoses got warmer now, like they should,

I figured it was something super simple, probably even in Owners manual if i would have gotten one with it when purchasing,. but does not usually happen on used equipment

bob