Output alternator vs LED light load???

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

Ok so I have been looking at adding LED lights. I work in the pitch black this time of year and want to add LOTS of light!

That being said I'm looking at a 200w 24" LED bar on my rops for forward light with 4x 18w side and and rear LED's.

So 272w / 12v = 22.7amps

I checked the kubota L2900 for alternator output. V1505 Denso has 40amps output.

So 2 questions...

1.) how many amps does my 2900 need?

2.) is there a higher output alternator?

 

[tcrote5516]

Just a couple thoughts on this.

1) I prefer individual lights vs. a light bar for a couple reasons. A light bar allows you to adjust up and down but you are stuck with the factory array from left to right which may not give you the coverage you want and there's nothing you can do about it. Wattage is the second reason. Because you have complete control over the array with individual lights you can usually get the light coverage you want without overlighting the center (yes there is such a thing and wasting wattage doing so. I'm using 4 of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/391256312071?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and couldn't be happier with them. They throw a ton of light.

2) I replaced the (2) 45watt factory headlight bulbs with 7 watt LED's. That's a 76 watt reduction. So now when I run the tractors lighting plus the (4) 18watt floodlights I'm actualy drawing 4 watts less then the original setup.

I know it doesn't sound like much but those 4 18 watt LED's are mounted to the top of my cab, two in front, two in rear and they give me more than enough light to work comfortably at night.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

I agree with tcrote 200 watts of led light may be overkill. I have 2 27 watt flood lights in front and a 10 watt to the rear. Its probably great to light up the night a quarter mile ahead with a 200 watt light bar if you are going 60 mph down a dirt road. At 5 mph on my tractor I can light up the night for 30 yards and see all I need to see.

 

[85Hokie]

Ok so I have been looking at adding LED lights. I work in the pitch black this time of year and want to add LOTS of light!

That being said I'm looking at a 200w 24" LED bar on my rops for forward light with 4x 18w side and and rear LED's.

So 272w / 12v = 22.7amps

I checked the kubota L2900 for alternator output. V1505 Denso has 40amps output.

So 2 questions...

1.) how many amps does my 2900 need?

2.) is there a higher output alternator?

BDC,

the thing about electricity is not the power of the alternator.....the weakness is in the transportation of the electrons! Aka - the wiring! IF you are anywhere near 40 amps of electron flow - something is gonna melt! Every wire in your tractor is designed to carry a certain amount of electron flow, the designers understand that there needs to be a little bigger wire or alternator for any given circumstance that might occur - but with a light that you are placing there - I too think that it is a overkill. I betcha you can do it fine with what you have, but here is the kicker.

all the lights need to be on a separate circuit - the light bar needs to be hooked to an empty fuse at 20 amps - and ANOTHER circuit needs to be created for the other 4 lights on a 10 amp fuse - if you make your own fuse box - which is easy, make sure the supply wire and ground wire are both big - and then make sure all wire running to the lights are rather large too. All that should be placed through a relay too.

here is one :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Way-Water...p-Motorcycle-Boat-Atv-Car-Truck-/301776323426

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pack-The-...605272?hash=item20ec314498:g:FC0AAOSwfcVUD32-

 

[grandall4]

Tcrote, can you share which bulbs you replaced your headlights with?

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

I was doing a little more research today and found a few things.

The rear tail lights are 8w and switching to 9led 67's bumps that down to 180mA x2.

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/271846234176

The orange flashers are marked 18w 5116. Switched with 18 LED bulbs = 2.2watts x2.

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/191290820167

Combine that with swapping the headlight bulbs and that significantly reduces the amp draw.

As for wiring, I have plenty of spools of 12 and 10 awg wiring. 200w / 12v = 16.6amp. Tables call for 10awg over 15' span. I'll run all the wiring to a relay and then onto the fuse block that has 3-4 open slots already. Then from there to the switch panel and then onto the lights.

The reason I was going for the high end 200w light bar is to light up the wood lot so I can work from 5-9pm this time of year splitting and stacking for next winter.

 

[ShaunBlake]

Chainsaw, I admire how you've thought it out. And I understand why you want lots of light. I want to call your attention to a couple of things you may not have considered: a) 200w lightbar is going to make a very bright spot that you won't want to look at while you're working; b) a single-point light source will make for (annoying) dark shadows.

For your objective, I recommend at least two floods on either side of your ROPS, close to your work area. Even better, three floods, in a semicircle around your work area.

 

[tcrote5516]

Tcrote, can you share which bulbs you replaced your headlights with?

I just used these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BRILLIAN...ash=item43b8850c21:g:FlgAAOSwajVUT926&vxp=mtr

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

I think I have decided to buy 6x smaller floods and use them at various points around the tractor. 2 forward, 2 side, 2 rear... Wired to 3x lighted switches.

Now to figure out a cup holder that won't foam the s*** out of my beer!

 

[socapots]

I've learned not to put it down until it's empty.

 

[TxDoc]

Now to figure out a cup holder that won't foam the s*** out of my beer!

http://barbuoy.com/

 

[85Hokie]

I've learned not to put it down until it's empty.

I'll second that notion.......... now where is another cold one!
(Had two beers last night - hadnt had one in about 3 months) A cold beer on a frustrating day makes one forget what frustrated you!

 

[RedTailHawk]

I just used these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BRILLIAN...ash=item43b8850c21:g:FlgAAOSwajVUT926&vxp=mtr

That link is for a brilliant red bulb. I tried searching for the white bulb version but couldn't find a similar one. Do you have another link?

 

[RedTailHawk]

After searching around more, it seems the Kubota headlight bulb is a little quirky with the flange around the base. Anyone found a LED replacement bulb, or even identify the model of the stock bulb?

 

[Black Dog Chainsaw]

After searching around more, it seems the Kubota headlight bulb is a little quirky with the flange around the base. Anyone found a LED replacement bulb, or even identify the model of the stock bulb?

You are right. I found that out too. I think someone made the option of cutting the back of the headlight bulb tubs out and epoxied in a standard bulb base. Then off the shelf bulbs can be used. I'm still wishing there was another alternator out there that would put out more juice so you can run more lighting, winch, etc...

I realize I'm reviving an old post but it's about time I cut and weld the ROPS to make them foldable and run the wiring for more lights.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dontwannaflip]

I’m thinking about adding LED work lighting to a B2601. I plan to get the Workshop Manual before I do anything. I assume the WSM will contain wiring diagrams, including wire gauges, to help me plan this out. I hope to configure everything so I have independent control over front vs. rear work lights using switches I would install in the blanked holes by the instrument cluster. I tend to take the approach described by others in similar threads—use fuses and relays.

I know some automotive circuits have a fuse-protected positive lead going to a given device, with a relay or switch in the ground path—you complete the ground and the device/light turns on. Does anyone know if there’s an advantage to that approach?

I see the fuse box has a 5A fuse for 35 watts worth of work lights, but I don’t know if anything is actually prewired at the factory for the work light option (pigtail, terminal board, connectorized leads, etc.) I do see an unused mystery-lead tucked up under the right rear fender by the tail light. BTW- The wiring under both fenders seems vulnerable to getting ripped out by a stick or brush that gets kicked up and propelled by the tires.

I also wonder about using the 10A outlet on the right fender rated for 120W. I would be willing to repurpose those leads as a convenient work light circuit depending on the gauge of the wire that Kubota uses for that circuit. I think I would need 12AWG (maybe 14AWG) to be comfortable with 10A at 12VDC. Is there any reason to not use the outlet wiring as a convenient source for lighting power? I suppose this would limit me from not connecting a big load to the outlet while running the LED lighting, otherwise risk blowing that 10A fuse. Does anyone use that outlet for anything creative?

 

[NoJacketRequired]

Switching the ground connection is generally a poor idea in machines which use the chassis as the ground path. By switching the ground, one is running a discrete ground wire to a location which would otherwise use a local chassis ground.

On the other hand, switching the ground to a relay coil is often done as it sometimes is easier to accomplish the "switchology" logic by controlling the ground. Keep in mind that many automotive relays source the ground connection for the relay coil via a metal mounting tab, so as soon as you bolt the relay to the chassis, that end of the coil connection is automatically grounded, leaving you with the only option of switching the hot side of the coil.

I've been finding that LED work lights in the 25W range are PLENTY of light for most tasks, so one pointed forward, another pointed aft, and some small lights on each side of the tractor are plenty of light and suck up only 5 amps or so. Double this up with two lights fore and aft and you're still below 10 amps.

Don't forget that many LED lights use internal switch-mode power supplies to produce a constant current source for the LEDs themselves. These switch-mode power supplies often create lots of electrical noise (EMI/RFI) so if you are planning on installing lots of LED work lights and listening to an AM or FM radio as you work, you might have to take precautions to ensure the lights don't wipe out the radio signal.

 

[coachgeo]

I’m thinking about....?

hmmm... guess we are the others opposit. Iwannaflip!! LOL. and have for decades and still do often (but my knee hates me for it)

 

[Dontwannaflip]

Thank you NoJacket, you’ve given me some more things to consider. I’m drooling over some of the monsters listed on the SuperBrightLEDs website. Most of the products would be overkill for sure. Frankly I don’t know what I will be doing at night where I need lights right now—we don’t get much snow around here and mowing/digging should probably be done during the day with my skill level. Having multiple “rock lights” also sounds like a good idea in order to light up the area immediately surrounding the machine.

Coachgeo, I was thinking “safety first” when I pondered over a tractor-related forum username. I almost used “Dontwannatip” but then I thought people would wonder if that was commentary on me being a cheapskate with the wait staff at the local restaurant.

 

[coachgeo]

.....Coachgeo, I was thinking “safety first” ...

Oh safety first always. Learn the drills before doing the skills. Course I was just teasing ya.... you see I coach Trampoline and Acrobatic Gymnast.