Oring popping out

[awesome]

I have a Vevor valve that I bought for cheap from china. I use it as my rear valve for my snowblower and wood splitter. I understand that this valve is cheap but I never had a problem until today.

On the pressure side, the connection is ORB. Today, while splitting wood, the oring popped out on the side and oil started to spray. So I replaced the oring but the same thing happened again.

I'm kind of confused as to why this would happen now and never before. Could it be because a hose is blocked and there is too much pressure and it pops out the oring? I would think that the pressure relief would kick in.

Any suggestion or ideas on how I coule troubleshoot this?

 

[ruger1980]

Is it the ORB o-ring that is leaking? If so they are not your everyday o-ring that you find in most kits. They are 90 durometer and a specific size. If you use the wrong o-ring they will leak. The same with ORFS.

 

[awesome]

Yes. The o-ring pops out on one side, the oil is pushing it out on one side. Kinda like a rubber bubble forming.

I was using the same o-ring that was working for 2 years and it did that. Then I bought new ones from a store that sells hydraulic hoses so I figure they have the right o-rings too. I'll get new ones from somewhere else just to be sure. But I'd like to hear about other things I could look into as well.

 

[ruger1980]

If the fitting is bent and not compressing the o-ring evenly all the way around it will push out the or-ring. Is this a straight fitting of an elbow or fitting with a washer and nut? If the nut and washer style the washer can get deformed and allow the o-ring to leak.

Maybe pics would help

 

[007kubotaguy]

As others have said these are special o-rings. 90 durometer. A little harder than most o-rings. When installing the fitting be sure the washer and o-ring are pushed all the way up against the top threads. Then screw the fitting in by hand. Get it in the position you want it and tighten the nut down. Most common problem is the O-ring being pushed in to the lower threads.

 

[awesome]

It's this guy. The leak happend beteen the orb fitting and the valve block (so not where the teflon is)

Are you guys suggesting I should try replacing the fitting and also the o-ring?

One strange thing: it happens only when pushing the valve one way, but not the other. I get no leaks when retracting the cylinder even when at then end. But when extending the cylinder, I get the leak, and the cylinder extends very slowly (obviously). Why would I get this problem only in one direction?

 

[DustyRusty]

Is this a new development or has it always been slow in one direction? When attempting to get help from others, the more information you provide in the beginning the easier it is to figure it out.

 

[awesome]

Is this a new development or has it always been slow in one direction? When attempting to get help from others, the more information you provide in the beginning the easier it is to figure it out.

It is slow in one direction because I have a leak that happens when I activate the valve in that direction. Before I had the leak, it was not slow. I came to realize this while trying to troubleshoot this problem later on.
I'm wondering if it's because the hose connected to the cylinder for that direction is clogged and then builds up pressure. But if the o-ring would leak because of too much pressure, then it would also leak on the other direction when the cylinder is at it's max. Also, the pressure relief valve would kick in, preventing the leak. So it makes no sense to me.

I'll replace the fitting and o-ring and report back, to at least rule that out.

 

[TheOldHokie]

It's this guy. The leak happend beteen the orb fitting and the valve block (so not where the teflon is)

Are you guys suggesting I should try replacing the fitting and also the o-ring?

One strange thing: it happens only when pushing the valve one way, but not the other. I get no leaks when retracting the cylinder even when at then end. But when extending the cylinder, I get the leak, and the cylinder extends very slowly (obviously). Why would I get this problem only in one direction?
View attachment 135914

Are you sure you have the correct fitting for that port? What makes you think its ORB? If properly tightened i cant imagine the oring being able to escape.

In any event sounds like you need to check the work circuit. Slow extension sounds like something is blocked.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

It is slow in one direction because I have a leak that happens when I activate the valve in that direction. Before I had the leak, it was not slow. I came to realize this while trying to troubleshoot this problem later on.
I'm wondering if it's because the hose connected to the cylinder for that direction is clogged and then builds up pressure. But if the o-ring would leak because of too much pressure, then it would also leak on the other direction when the cylinder is at it's max. Also, the pressure relief valve would kick in, preventing the leak. So it makes no sense to me.

I'll replace the fitting and o-ring and report back, to at least rule that out.

OK - please slow down. I only did a quick survey but every VEVOR valve I found for sale online has BSPP (G thread) ports. Before buying anything lets get the ports identified.

Also that valve and plumbing looks brand new. Has it ever actually been used? In other words is this the initial hookup?

Dan

 

[ruger1980]

I agree with Dan. This does not look like ORB fittings. If BSPP thread it usually takes a sealing washer or seal in the face of the fitting. Remove and take pics of the fitting and port.

 

[awesome]

OK - please slow down. I only did a quick survey but every VEVOR valve I found for sale online has BSPP (G thread) ports. Before buying anything lets get the ports identified.

Also that valve and plumbing looks brand new. Has it ever actually been used? In other words is this the initial hookup?

Dan

The picture is old. It's from when I initially bought it. Everything is the same now, but with oil and diry all over it.

I took a picture of the plug that can with the valve and it looks like the rubber is inside the head. Never seem that before. So yeah, not ORB it seems.

And this is what I am using on "P"

 

[TheOldHokie]

The picture is old. It's from when I initially bought it. Everything is the same now, but with oil and diry all over it.

I took a picture of the plug that can with the valve and it looks like the rubber is inside the head. Never seem that before. So yeah, not ORB it seems. View attachment 135950

And this is what I am using on "P"
View attachment 135951

I think we have found your problem.

It appears the ports are BSPP not ORB. Not only the wrong o-ring but also the wrong thread pitch, diameter, and flank angle.

Not sure why your cylinder moves slow but you need to correct the fittings. While you are at it I suggest you eliminate as many of those rigid connections as possible and substitute female swivels for the hose connections.

Use BSPP to male JIC adaoters in P and T ports.

Use BSPP to male NPT in cylinder ports.

The female pirt on the Power Beyond adapter may well be ORB but you need to double check.

If you want help with the specifics let me know.

Dan

 

[ruger1980]

You can use the fittings you have you just need sealing washers at the 2 fittings circled like pointed out with the yellow arrows. These are generally coated steel or aluminum.

 

[TheOldHokie]

You can use the fittings you have you just need sealing washers at the 2 fittings circled like pointed out with the yellow arrows. These are generally coated steel or aluminum.
View attachment 135962

He cannot use rhe fittings he has - the threads do not match. He has SAE oring boss fittings and the ports are BSPP. Hopefully he has not damaged the threads in the ports.

Dan

 

[awesome]

He cannot use rhe fittings he has - the threads do not match. He has SAE oring boss fittings and the ports are BSPP. Hopefully he has not damaged the threads in the ports.

Dan

Thank, I'll make some calls tomorrow. Bspp seems hard to find. I doubt I damaged the threads, it goes it very smoothly.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank, I'll make some calls tomorrow. Bspp seems hard to find. I doubt I damaged the threads, it goes it very smoothly.

What you need is easily found online.

I would suggest these in the P and T ports

9002-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x 1/2" BSPP Male

Check out the deal on 9002-08-08 | 1/2" JIC Male x 1/2" BSPP Male at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Then these on the ends of the hoses

6503-06-08 | 3/8" NPTF Female x 1/2" JIC Female Swivel 90°

Check out the deal on 6503-06-08 | 3/8" NPTF Female x 1/2" JIC Female Swivel 90° at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

What firtings did you put in the cylinder ports? They shpuld be 3/8 BSPP (G3/8)

Dan

 

[ruger1980]

@awesome can you post a pic of the numbers on your fittings and possibly without the oring on the fitting?

 

[TheOldHokie]

@awesome can you post a pic of the numbers on your fittings and possibly without the oring on the fitting?

I dont think any numbers on aby of the hundreds of fittinga in my parts bins.

This is a typical 6400-06-08

JIC-6 male by SAE- 8 male.

I believe he has a 6405=06-08

3/8 NPT female by SAE-8 male

No washers on these straight fittings because the end of the hex (or sometimes a raised boss) provides that function.

 

[ruger1980]

I am suspecting they may not be MORB fittings. -6 MORB major thread diameter is .562 and 3/8 BSPP is .656
-8 MORB is 3/4x16 so no way an ORB fitting will work in a BSPP port