Original Tractor Cab

[Bee-Positive]

Bottom line (to avoid having to read my extremely long ramble) great cab for the price, would buy again without the switch panel.

Here's my experience and thoughts in case anyone else is interested in the Original Tractor Cab.
Got the Original Tractor Cab: soft sides, hard top, glass windshield, electric wiper, two side mirrors, power switch panel, and free tiny heater. Totaled $2,171 after taxes with free shipping. OTC was out of stock for the cab but had a link to Farm and Trail who had it and all add-ons that OTC offered. Called F&T with some questions, left a message and got a call-back within the hour from a REAL PERSON!! I know Right!! Very helpful, took his time, matched or beat all prices from OTC, even a small discount. I prefer to get everything from one source anyways. They also quickly replied to a couple follow up emails. Outstanding customer support so far! Would not hesitate doing business with them again.

Took WAY longer to put together than anticipated. Had to remove my ROPS mounted lighting without destroying them, 3-year-old grandson insisted on helping, and my OCD didn’t help.
Pros

• Shipping was fast. Most items came in two days, the rest within 10 days.
• Packaged well, no damage, all the parts, well-marked.
• The top seems tuff, not Rhino tuff, but I’m happy.
• The soft sides are very good quality with nice clear windows. Should hold up well.
• Hook & Loop (Velcro) on the door interior holding the door frame is no joke, extremely strong.
• Installing the windshield could not have been easier.
• Wiper install was easy and works very well, very happy, good value.
• Final fit is pretty good (more about that below).
• Door latches open and close well allowing easy access.
• Side mirrors are nice but are bumped out of position if opening the doors too wide.

Cons

• Cab instruction photos are subpar, slightly helpful, even after watching several videos.
• Adjusting the frame to get the doors and roof to fit correctly was a major PITA.
• Had to bend the lower left door frame to clear the back fender.
• Mechanical advantage was needed to push the entire frame forward to get it off the ROPS so the top would fit, even with all the fasteners loose.
• Two holes in the top did not line up with the top frame, lots of effort and prying involved.
• Did I say the door interior Hook & Loop is no joke. I ended up with bloody cuticles, literally, trying to open the hook & loop for mounting the door frames to the vinyl doors. VERY not fun.
• Lower front panel around the engine hood has bottom flaps that wrap around the outside of the frame attaching to the lower portion of the doors (about knee high down to your feet). Contrary to the door interior hook & loop these are not as aggressive and can come loose.
• Attached springs on each side of the lower front panel keep it tight. On the right side I found no holes (within reach) or objects to hook to under the tractor. Will have to revisit that at a later date.

Switch Panel
I knew the electric switch panel kit was WAY over-priced, shame on me for buying it anyways.

• Panel has 8 holes – 2 on the ends are for wiring – 6 holes for switches.
• Fuse block is sized for 6 fuses (various fuses are included).
• 5 plastic plugs for unused switch holes are included.
• Included only 1 switch (hence the 5 plastic plugs).
• Provided wiring to connect only 4 switches.
• Way more wire wrap than I’ll use but more is always better.

The switches are $3 each online. For $170 they should have included 6 switches and 6 sets of wires for the 6 possible fuse block connections. I ordered nicer switches anyways. The panel is mounted by 1 screw and nut to the frame with all ground wires secured to this one screw. It’s stated you can add more support by drilling holes and using zip-ties. Seriously?

I ordered a common grounding block and will run 1 wire to the screw on the frame. Still pondering alternative mounting options that will allow easy access for future modifications. Holes and zip ties may prove to be the answer after all.
The kit could have done been better and is overpriced; I do not recommend it.

Still need to mount my lights, but that shouldn’t be difficult.

All-in-all I’m very happy with the purchase and a big shout-out to Farm and Trail.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Looks nice from here.

So are your plans to remove it in the summer?

Or is this going to be a “year round” thing?

 

[Bee-Positive]

Hey thanks!

The doors and windshield come right off, maybe I'll try that for a while, see what works.
I'll likely take it completely off for mowing, got a couple of low trees.

4 bolts in the floor, 2 on the ROPS, unplug wiring and off it comes.
Definitely not a 1 person job without an overhead lift of some sort.

 

[Ol Red Wrench]

I've bought one from Farm and Trail and installed one on my BX2200 a few years back with the same options, for a heater i installed a coolant type for better heat. I've been extremely happy with it no problems staying warm in the winter, i do block off part of the radiator to be able to maintain engine temp. I agree that the switch panel is extremely overpriced for what it is but it does fit into the cab well. i guess it's the price you pay for the fit. i leave mine on year around and just remove the doors in the summer, keeps the sun off you and its a little more protection when running the brush hog. I too feel the cab is a very good value for the price.

 

[Bee-Positive]

I've bought one from Farm and Trail and installed one on my BX2200 a few years back with the same options, for a heater i installed a coolant type for better heat. I've been extremely happy with it no problems staying warm in the winter, i do block off part of the radiator to be able to maintain engine temp. I agree that the switch panel is extremely overpriced for what it is but it does fit into the cab well. i guess it's the price you pay for the fit. i leave mine on year around and just remove the doors in the summer, keeps the sun off you and its a little more protection when running the brush hog. I too feel the cab is a very good value for the price. View attachment 166776 View attachment 166777 View attachment 166778 View attachment 166779

Is that duck tape over the air-intake? I need to do something similar.
Do you recall the make/model of the heater?

 

[Ol Red Wrench]

Yea its the handy man's secret weapon, with the cab on, at least with the BX2200 model, you block off the screen in the cab and remove the tin plate under the battery for the air intake to the radiator, otherwise you are pulling air out from the cab, hence any heat that might be there. i also put a rug under the seat to block off any cold air coming in through there and have sealed up the control levers by putting a plastic sheet over them and cutting slits for the levers. The air intake with the hose on it goes to a defroster panel that i mounted to at the base of the windshield for defrosting. I bought the heater from a company that i found on line. i had my cab on the tractor and knew what my dimension needed to be, it fits, but is tight. They also had all the accessories for the defroster under the windshield. As i mentioned earlier i also blocked off half of the radiator screen to keep the engine warm because the heater works as a radiator as well, you just keep an eye on your engine temp to know how much you need to block off

 

[Bee-Positive]

Hey thanks.

Today we've have 20 mph winds average with 40 mph gusts. Wind chill temp is about 5F. I'm so happy just keeping the wind off my face that I haven't installed a heater yet. My BX is shaped a bit different, I'll have to check on the fit and see what works.

I do have a couple Horror Freight moving blankets around the seat to block drafts. I've seen others stuff fabric in the top frame also to keep drafts off their heads.

 

[Bearcatrp]

Would love to put one on my 1880 but it’s to high to get it in my garage. Could you measure the highest point on your cab?

 

[Bee-Positive]

The highest part of my ROPS is 81.5" The highest part of the cab (front) is 78.25"

I have a standard two stall attached garage with concrete floors and standard doors, nothing fancy or added. I drove the tractor with cab so the highest part of the cab was exactly under the lowest part of my garage door opening. I still have enough room to mount my LED light bar on the top front of the cab.

When I got the tractor initially I had to take an angle grinder and shorten the manual lever. When the doors are open they were actually lower than the door opening. I also tied the rope up on the one in the picture. The other one is no longer there - for obvious reasons.

 

[Russell King]

@Bee-Positive
That release rope is a perfect pass key for a thief to be in your house in a few seconds. They shove the top of the door back and use a wire over the top to grab the rope, pull it and the door is released and can be opened. (Unless tying it somehow stops that)

There are several ways to make it more secure.

Here is a commercial solution that should also work but in a different way.

Buy Garage Shield | Protect Garage Door From Break-Ins

Buy the patent-pending Garage Shield to protect your home NOW!

thegarageshield.com

 

[bird dogger]

Is that duck tape over the air-intake? I need to do something similar.
Do you recall the make/model of the heater?

If you're looking for something ready made and easy on/off here's the BX Cover that I make.

 

[Bee-Positive]

@Bee-Positive
That release rope is a perfect pass key for a thief to be in your house in a few seconds. They shove the top of the door back and use a wire over the top to grab the rope, pull it and the door is released and can be opened. (Unless tying it somehow stops that)

There are several ways to make it more secure.

Here is a commercial solution that should also work but in a different way.

Buy Garage Shield | Protect Garage Door From Break-Ins

Buy the patent-pending Garage Shield to protect your home NOW!

thegarageshield.com

Likely a true statement.
I think a thief would prefer to use any of the three man-doors on my garage, break a window and open the door. Either way if they want in they're getting in.

 

[Bearcatrp]

The highest part of my ROPS is 81.5" The highest part of the cab (front) is 78.25"

I have a standard two stall attached garage with concrete floors and standard doors, nothing fancy or added. I drove the tractor with cab so the highest part of the cab was exactly under the lowest part of my garage door opening. I still have enough room to mount my LED light bar on the top front of the cab.

When I got the tractor initially I had to take an angle grinder and shorten the manual lever. When the doors are open they were actually lower than the door opening. I also tied the rope up on the one in the picture. The other one is no longer there - for obvious reasons.

View attachment 166812

Thanks for the information. Was considering deflating my tires just enough to get it in the garage if I do get a cab. Am higher with R4 tires for a 23S for winter duties.