I have relatives who really baby their tractors. I’m talking generally operating around 1500to 1800rpm. In your all’s opinion. What’s the optimal Rpm speed for deisel tractors, When being under load of course. I have my own thoughts, just curious about others. Some believe in wide open. That’s not me . All responses appreciated.
Optimum Rpm.
- Thread starter Hillbilly7
- Start date
Really depends on what I am doing but I do not baby them, they are made to run at PTO speed for a reason. And on the modern tractors that have DPF, it seems to be better to keep RPM up. The only time I have ever run one "wide open" is running down the road...
My bx has a cheat sheet right on the tach.
In my 40+ hours I've noticed:
1) My snowblower wants/likes/needs to be run full boar.
2) It won't let me get to 4K, only 3500 max. Maybe after 75 hours or so I will open her up and find out what is governing it.
PS: That is NOT me wearing loafers on the tractor, it's a stock google pic.
In my 40+ hours I've noticed:
1) My snowblower wants/likes/needs to be run full boar.
2) It won't let me get to 4K, only 3500 max. Maybe after 75 hours or so I will open her up and find out what is governing it.
PS: That is NOT me wearing loafers on the tractor, it's a stock google pic.
My 2003 Dodge CTD has a sweet spot of 2000 RPM in 5th or 6th pulling a load all day long.
My Kubota seems to like 2000 RPM while disking so I run it there, when box blading and even for FEL work (except for delicate work).
Of coarse 2600 for PTO work.
However, the Kubota only has 60 hours (without a regen yet) so I will get back to you in a few thousand hours.
My Kubota seems to like 2000 RPM while disking so I run it there, when box blading and even for FEL work (except for delicate work).
Of coarse 2600 for PTO work.
However, the Kubota only has 60 hours (without a regen yet) so I will get back to you in a few thousand hours.
Right. Loafers are for motorcycle riding. Flip Flops are for tractor workPS: That is NOT me wearing loafers on the tractor, it's a stock google pic.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
If I'm running an implement on one of the PTOs I always set the pto rpm to the implements' working rpm. Rear pto usually 540 rpm, which is near 2,400 rpm engine rpm.
The only pto implement not run near engine rated rpm is the post hole auger. Spins around 300 rpm.
The front pto mounted snow blower I run at 2500 rpm, my tractor's "rated" working rpm.
I NEVER operate the engine at WOT. It governs out at around 2800 rpm, but I always set it near THE 2500 RATED rpm for heavy work or pto work. In my way of thinking WOT IS NOT THE SAME AS OPERATING RPM.
WOT simply makes the governor cut in to keep the rpm within safe limits. It isn't the correct working rpm, too high, and likely hard on the machine to keep working it with he throttle lever slammed down.
When I'm busy with loader, forks, box blade, etc (no pto involved) my engine rpm ranges from about 1800 - 2200 rpm. It's not really needed to go at 2500 rpm to work efficiently, puts out plenty of power, and it's a lot quieter too.
The only pto implement not run near engine rated rpm is the post hole auger. Spins around 300 rpm.
The front pto mounted snow blower I run at 2500 rpm, my tractor's "rated" working rpm.
I NEVER operate the engine at WOT. It governs out at around 2800 rpm, but I always set it near THE 2500 RATED rpm for heavy work or pto work. In my way of thinking WOT IS NOT THE SAME AS OPERATING RPM.
WOT simply makes the governor cut in to keep the rpm within safe limits. It isn't the correct working rpm, too high, and likely hard on the machine to keep working it with he throttle lever slammed down.
When I'm busy with loader, forks, box blade, etc (no pto involved) my engine rpm ranges from about 1800 - 2200 rpm. It's not really needed to go at 2500 rpm to work efficiently, puts out plenty of power, and it's a lot quieter too.
Creature Meadow
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
I run my RPM's that match the task I'm performing.
Loader work, brush hog, land plane, road travel just under PTO.
All other work around 1500 to 1800, disking, row bedder, plowing, etc.
Mine idles at 800 and starts PTO at 2300 for an idea. No emissions stuff on my 2012.
I change the oil every 2 years, grease it every 10 to 15 hours, give it a bath when dirty, check oil before each use, clean air filter as needed and replace annually. Store it under a shelter and use it but treat it as I want to keep it for another 20 years.
Best of luck.
Jay
Loader work, brush hog, land plane, road travel just under PTO.
All other work around 1500 to 1800, disking, row bedder, plowing, etc.
Mine idles at 800 and starts PTO at 2300 for an idea. No emissions stuff on my 2012.
I change the oil every 2 years, grease it every 10 to 15 hours, give it a bath when dirty, check oil before each use, clean air filter as needed and replace annually. Store it under a shelter and use it but treat it as I want to keep it for another 20 years.
Best of luck.
Jay
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I agree with the previous posters, depends on the use. Ground engaging implements 2000-2200, post hole digger 1400-1700 and real heavy use of fel (digging out stumps) 2400.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
well... let me throw this out there - the large problem here is the machine ITSELF! A "B" series typically DOES NOT run at 3K+ on the top end - where as a BX will almost run 3.5K .....
the sweet spot is where you are making the pieces fit together. Each engine has a torque curve that is different so the magic 2k is not enough on the BX where as on a B series it is perfect.
ON my BX - the idle is about 1500-1600 rpms - if I start it and then raise the FEL off the ground it will take a 15 minutes.... ok kidding ..........but if I goose it up to 1800 rpms - the FEL speed increased 5 fold! My point is this, some of the hydraulics need a little more to work well.
I cut grass almost wide open ...... FEL work will depend - and BH work also depends - as much as WOT works well - sometimes the hydraulic move TOO fast...... so a bit under WOT seems to work the best.
HERE is the kicker - NEVER baby the engine - never, other than idle to warm up and shut down - it really does a hellva lot of harm, on the new engines it will make you want to push the tractor into the pond!!!!
People will tell you "run it like you stole it" and believe it or not - that is a fair statement. NOTHING will be harmed by running it hard - and really it does NOT burn a lot more diesel when doing so - on some engines there is a spot that fuel consumption is best around 3/4 WOT. Now it will make more noise and maybe vibrate a bit more .... or not. BUT babying the engine is just .............. stupid - there I said it !!!!
the sweet spot is where you are making the pieces fit together. Each engine has a torque curve that is different so the magic 2k is not enough on the BX where as on a B series it is perfect.
ON my BX - the idle is about 1500-1600 rpms - if I start it and then raise the FEL off the ground it will take a 15 minutes.... ok kidding ..........but if I goose it up to 1800 rpms - the FEL speed increased 5 fold! My point is this, some of the hydraulics need a little more to work well.
I cut grass almost wide open ...... FEL work will depend - and BH work also depends - as much as WOT works well - sometimes the hydraulic move TOO fast...... so a bit under WOT seems to work the best.
HERE is the kicker - NEVER baby the engine - never, other than idle to warm up and shut down - it really does a hellva lot of harm, on the new engines it will make you want to push the tractor into the pond!!!!
People will tell you "run it like you stole it" and believe it or not - that is a fair statement. NOTHING will be harmed by running it hard - and really it does NOT burn a lot more diesel when doing so - on some engines there is a spot that fuel consumption is best around 3/4 WOT. Now it will make more noise and maybe vibrate a bit more .... or not. BUT babying the engine is just .............. stupid - there I said it !!!!
Anything which requires hydraulic pressure should have some RPMs behind it. Remember.... ALL the engine power must be converted into hydraulic pressure by the pump. The pump is DESIGNED for a specific input RPM just like many PTO implements are rated for 540 RPM.
Running a hydraulic pump below its rated speed is inefficient (wastes engine power) and can induce excess heat and wear into the system.
All engines, pumps, and most machines in general have a specific RPM which they are most efficient. (Create the most work while wasting the least energy)
For example, EVERY car I have ever owned has a 'sweet spot' where the MPGs are the highest. For many cars, this is just below 50 MPH. Driving above -or- below this speed reduces the MPG.
MNVikingsGuy
Active member
Equipment
LX3310, FEL, 60" bucket, 60" grapple, 60" box blade, 60" flail, LX2980 blower,
With PTO (rear and mid-mount) implements I run my LX3310 at 2400rpm per specs. When not using PTO I tend to run between 2000-2200 rpm. It just seems to be a noise and performance sweet spot. If I run it for any length of time under 2000 rpm I get an early regen event. Seems with the DPF running hard/hot is good.
Let’s re-phrase my question. It will probably result in the same answers , but that’s ok. Is there any advantage to operating a tractor at peak torque as oppose to a specified rpm setting. And for this scenario. Let’s assume pulling loads only.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
MNVikingsGuy
Active member
Equipment
LX3310, FEL, 60" bucket, 60" grapple, 60" box blade, 60" flail, LX2980 blower,
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
MNVikingsGuy
Active member
Equipment
LX3310, FEL, 60" bucket, 60" grapple, 60" box blade, 60" flail, LX2980 blower,
While my LX3310 seems to top out at 2400 rpm, this doc suggests it is designed to run up to 3000 rpm. Is this just artificially down tuned to fit a hp target (33hp in this case) in the product line up? Is there any good way to tap some of this "hidden" power?
I run my L2501 around 2,100-2,200 (540 pto rpm) when mowing. For most other times such as bucket and grapple work, rear blade, landscape rake, etc., around 1,600 - 1,700 rpm where it runs smooth, quiet, uses less fuel, while the loader lifts just as much.
Okay guys, what does WOT stand for? My B2601 is rated at 2,800 rpm and that's the pto speed, or a notch less, so I mow in that window, at the start to middle of the red notch on the tach. For running around, the tractor seems to like 2,000.