Operating a Wood Splitter on a L3540 Tractor

Buddys Road

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L3540
Jun 5, 2023
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I have a Kubota L3540 and would like to use a wood splitter using the existing hydraulic system.
I have 2 sets of remotes. I would like advice on how to configure the controls so I can use the splitter.

See the attached photos.

Rear Remote controls.jpg
 

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CAPT Seabee

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You'll just use one remote. Given the location of the lever, it'll be a two person operation. I recommend a splitter that operates either vertical or horizontal. The cross profile wedge that gives you four pieces of wood will speed things up. Your hydraulic specs show no problem going with a 5" cylinder and the stroke will be fairly quick. Also, you won't need much for RPMs. No sense running it up when you don't need to.
 

Buddys Road

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L3540
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You'll just use one remote. Given the location of the lever, it'll be a two person operation. I recommend a splitter that operates either vertical or horizontal. The cross profile wedge that gives you four pieces of wood will speed things up. Your hydraulic specs show no problem going with a 5" cylinder and the stroke will be fairly quick. Also, you won't need much for RPMs. No sense running it up when you don't need to.
I am looking for advice on the positioning of the Remote Hydraulic Controls so that the Control valve on the wood splitter will work.
 

Buddys Road

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L3540
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I am looking for advice on the positioning of the Remote Hydraulic Controls so that the Control valve on the wood splitter will work.
 

Russell King

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I think you need what is called a directional control valve to divert the full flow to the splitter.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Use a bungee cord to hold the valve open.
You're not going to be happy with the rate.
It will have plenty of power just no speed.
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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My 2 cents...

Save some money and use your tractor to move logs. Put a ball on your tractor's drawbar to move something like this:

Screenshot_20240211_175558_Chrome.jpg


Just sayin'.
 
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Russell King

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I am looking for advice on the positioning of the Remote Hydraulic Controls so that the Control valve on the wood splitter will work.
If you have a backhoe read this thread for a method

if you have only a loader see this
 

Donystoy

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Use a bungee cord to hold the valve open.
You're not going to be happy with the rate.
It will have plenty of power just no speed.
Exactly! You will have to find a way to hold the remote valve lever in one direction or use the power beyond connections if you have them. The speed of the splitter will be in direct relation to the engine speed and gpm available from the tractor. These are positive displacement pumps, so the output is directly related to the engine speed and pump displacement. I have a 4" cylinder on mine operated by a 11gpm PTO pump. I have to operate the engine around 2000 rpm to give me a comfortable splitter speed. Mine obviously has its own oil reservoir etc.
 

CAPT Seabee

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Bonners Ferry ID
I am looking for advice on the positioning of the Remote Hydraulic Controls so that the Control valve on the wood splitter will work.
I see now. Probably the cheapest way would be to add a third line to the manifold under your seat. It has an inlet/outlet for it. You'll get the maximum flow available.
 

GreensvilleJay

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OK.. which 'wood splitter' do you have or are considering buying ? You need to know the PSI and GPM that the splitter requires, then compare to what the tractor MIGHT have.
BTW both PSI and GPM will probably be less than the posted 'specs'.

You can probably use either rear remote. Just wedge a stick to force one of the levers to be 'on'.

I don't think I've seen anyone here say/show IF they're tractor powered wood splitter was better than a self powered, stand alone' splitter. Over the years I've built 3 as 'winter projects',though today you can buy them fairly cheaply.

A lot depends on how much wood you need to split, and how often. Camp fire amounts or heat your home all winter long ? Use yourself or selling it ?? Lots of factors are needed to be looked at.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I see now. Probably the cheapest way would be to add a third line to the manifold under your seat. It has an inlet/outlet for it. You'll get the maximum flow available.
Adding another loop or valve or anything else will not increase flow.
Flow is limited by the pump output.
 
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TheOldHokie

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windyridgefarm.us
I have a Kubota L3540 and would like to use a wood splitter using the existing hydraulic system.
I have 2 sets of remotes. I would like advice on how to configure the controls so I can use the splitter.

See the attached photos.

View attachment 122223
I hsve bern using a 3pt splitter for 20 years and your remotes are most definitly not the best way to do this. You want to setup a continuos flow outlet. Its not hard or expensive and there are multiple ways to do it. Do you have a loader or backhoe on the tractor?

Dan

20211015_112248.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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Actually I was thinking of reducing head loss with the bungee cord solution. One less valve that way. Line loss will be about the same.
Just put a quick coupler on the PB line coming off the loader valve. Use it to connect the log splitter. No bungee and you eliminate the remotes.

Dan
 

GreensvilleJay

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There's minimal 'loss' in the hydraulic system,probably can't even measure it.
However the real losses from using a tractor powered log splitter are
1)high fuel cost per cord split
2)loss of tractor when splitter attached
3) high # of DPF regens
4) high hours on tractor
5) wear and tear on 'high idling' tractor

diesel is 20c/l ( +-$1/gallon ) MORE than gas for me. running a 10hp gas engine is far cheaper than a 35HP diesel engine.
a tractor mounted splitter means when you NEED the tractor,you have to disconnect the splitter,do the other job(pull hay wagon in ) then remount the splitter,......
don't know if you have DPF,but most newer,bigger(>24HP) do.running splitter doesn't need full throttle but DPF does.
depending on how many cords of wood and helpers, you can rack up a LOT of 'just above idling ' hours whicj may not be a good thing.
 
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TheOldHokie

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There's minimal 'loss' in the hydraulic system,probably can't even measure it.
However the real losses from using a tractor powered log splitter are
1)high fuel cost per cord split
2)loss of tractor when splitter attached
3) high # of DPF regens
4) high hours on tractor
5) wear and tear on 'high idling' tractor

diesel is 20c/l ( +-$1/gallon ) MORE than gas for me. running a 10hp gas engine is far cheaper than a 35HP diesel engine.
a tractor mounted splitter means when you NEED the tractor,you have to disconnect the splitter,do the other job(pull hay wagon in ) then remount the splitter,......
don't know if you have DPF,but most newer,bigger(>24HP) do.running splitter doesn't need full throttle but DPF does.
depending on how many cords of wood and helpers, you can rack up a LOT of 'just above idling ' hours whicj may not be a good thing.
Phooey.

I could say the exact same thing about a 3pt finish mower and it would be just as accurate. Or a 3pt wood chipper. Or a 3pt stump grinder. Or....

I would also point out you dont idle the tractor engine. You run the engine at full RPM because you want full hydraulic flow. Its actually optimal for minimizing regen.

This is a matter of personal preference and needs. I like mine. It fits my splitting needs, I will never come anywhere close to wearing out my tractor using it, and I have zero interest in switching.

YMMV,

Dan
 
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Boatman

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Sorry for not answering your actual question but....

I've been running a splitter on my L2800 for a few years now. Yup it's a little slower than a dedicated machine but for my purposes it works great. A cord or two a year is all it sees. If I were to get back in the firewood business I would get a standalone unit but for limited use it works for me.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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If you have to run your tractor WOT for a log splitter, then either the splitter is way over spec or thetractor way under spec. Would have to see the charts for your tractor but there's usually a 'sweet' spot of RPM vs GPM vs PSI. Once that's reached, no need for higher RPM...waste of fuel,increased wear and tear.

All the tractor powered splitters I've seen in the past 5 decades weren't as good as self powered ones. Mivd you, if all you do is a true cord or two a season, not a big deal. However do 5 cords a month and you'll appreciate a stand alone splitter, that frees up tractor to haul away the splits.
As TOH says.. personal .when I did splitting,made my own fast .powerful stand alone splitter
 

TheOldHokie

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If you have to run your tractor WOT for a log splitter, then either the splitter is way over spec or thetractor way under spec. Would have to see the charts for your tractor but there's usually a 'sweet' spot of RPM vs GPM vs PSI. Once that's reached, no need for higher RPM...waste of fuel,increased wear and tear.

All the tractor powered splitters I've seen in the past 5 decades weren't as good as self powered ones. Mivd you, if all you do is a true cord or two a season, not a big deal. However do 5 cords a month and you'll appreciate a stand alone splitter, that frees up tractor to haul away the splits.
As TOH says.. personal .when I did splitting,made my own fast .powerful stand alone splitter
These are open center gear pump systems.

Flow is linear with RPM. You get max flow at max RPM - no magical "sweet spot".

Pressure is basically the same at all operating speeds.

A tractor engine is just like your gas powered splitter which is is running WOT at 3600 RPM.

Dan
 
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