Operate L295 without Hydraulic pump?

[KiwiKubota]

I have an old L295 which is driven half a mile at the most and then used to launch a boat

The hydraulic Lines have rusted severely and failed. As I do not use the tractor for anything other then towing is it possible to disconnect the pump and lines?

IS the pump/ filter used for anything else such as transmission etc or can I run the tractor without it

Just hemorrhaged $500 (NZ) on a starter motor so reluctant to throw anymore money at for now

 

[rbargeron]

Technically you could run without it - but it will still take some doing to stop the leaks. It might be less work to cut out the worst rusted parts of the hydraulic lines and just put some inexpensive automotive reinforced rubber hose over them with screw clamps. Then run the tractor without using the hydraulics for much. The system will circulate oil at low pressure, keeping the oil clean and keeping the pump in operating condition. It may even lift the three-point hitch with a light load.

 

[KiwiKubota]

Thanks sounds like an easier option,

Any idea what role this box at the top plays? its well rusted out, can i just cut it out and bypass it?

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
If that is what you want to do, I would take the hydraulic pump off the tractor and put a blank plate in it place.Do the same were the large line comes off the side of rear axle housing. The smaller line coming from the pump with the block under the seat is the pressure line. you could do the same.Are you sure this is A L295 ? In you pic it looks like this tractor has dry drum brakes and I have never seen a L295 like that.
Good Luck Lance

 

[KiwiKubota]

Your right not a 295 but a L285 too many paint jobs and not a lot left on it to identify it by

Well spotted!

 

[rbargeron]

Thanks sounds like an easier option,

Any idea what role this box at the top plays? its well rusted out, can i just cut it out and bypass it?

That's the hydraulic block. It's a nearly solid chunk of iron with an internal passage for tapping into hydraulic power for a loader etc. The fittings may need replacement (the block itself is likely fine except it's paint) If you don't need it, ok to bypass it with a hose. If you plug it up the lines the three-point hitch won't work. It looks like a wire brush job would reveal exactly where the leaks are - may just need a couple cheap hydraulic fittings from the local auto parts place.

BTW, making accurate fitted blank plates to cap off the pump, suction and discharge ports isn't a huge job, but isn't trivial either.