I just bought the L3200 and RCR 1860 cutter, 2013 used. I haven't bush hogged in several years and my field was in terrible shape, trees and brush has almost taken it over. My 1860 is cutting it all down, but i won't try to cut the big stuff. i was wondering, when i do get new blades what size do i need to get.
Old Dude
- Thread starter Old Dude
- Start date
Welcome to OTT Old Dude from another old dude. For the RCR 1860, which I have, replacement blade is: LP 820-198C uses 1-11/16" socket. the actual blade is: 1/2" x 3" x 25".
Where in MS do you live? I am in Northwest Alabama about 15 miles from MS border.
Where in MS do you live? I am in Northwest Alabama about 15 miles from MS border.
This will be a lengthly reply and composed from adding two other postings together with some redundancy, but addresses important aspects of ownership.
Contact the manufacturer and wait on them to send you the Owner's Manual for that machine. You'll need to furnish them the Model Number off the tag. If not present they can guess pretty well based on your description. You may need to send them a photo via email.
Some blades can be hard to find in some areas. [Pertaining to another poster in another string:] You said you had two different blade lengths----one's been cut off, ground off, or you have one or both incorrect blades. You need to start fresh with the OEM part number or you'll never get it right. Some blades will have a number stamped on them somewhere if not worn off.
There are literally hundreds of different bushhog blades--make certain you have the correct offset and direction of rotation and mounting hole size---in addition to length.
Locally, I pay about $50 for a set of two blades for a 6-ft Howse.
You might want to go back with new mounting bolts. Make sure the stumpjumper keyway slot is clean and make certain when reinstalling bolts the keyways line up.
Check local pawn shop for large sockets, extension, and break-over bar or buy a bushhog wrench to fit. Use a cheater pipe and penetrating oil. Lube the threads and keyway with thread sealant (pipe dope, not LocTite) when going back together.
After removing the nut the blade bolt will probably be tight. Put the nut back on just to top of bolt and use a piece of wood to punch the bolt loose.
Sharpen blades annually or as needed by removing and using a 4.5-in hand grinder.
Check gearbox and use 85-140-W gear oil or per your unit specs. Some of their gearboxes have a level indicating plug, some don't.
Tighten EVERY nut on the entire implement and go back with new NyLock nuts.
Blades can, do, and will bend and break. First time it happens you'll have a strong desire to be someplace else. Get out of PTO as fast as you can, go back to shop, and install new blade set. Retighten all bolts, again.
Keep those U-joints greased. Replace missing zerks (one each end). Look carefully, may be sheared off.
Depending where you live and the stocking availability in your area you'll probably do better---cost-wise and seeing the replacment in person and even returning if incorrectly sized---to buy blades locally.
If this machine is new to you and you're not the original owner my suggestion would be to talk directly with the manufacturer and obtain the blade part number for that machine. And then buy locally if you can.
If you must, order your first set using that mfg part number.
Later, for future sets, you can shop for pricing using the KNOWN good sample blade.
Why you ask? I have seen used shredders with incorrect, torch cut, whittled, backwards, incorect rotation, upside-down, and everything in between blades. If you use what is now on the machine you truly don't know if it's correct for that use or not. I kid you not bushhog blades are magnets for errors. And believe it or not there are hundreds of possible blades to go wrong with.
As mentioned, some blades do have part numbers stamped into them. Most don't or are long gone due to abrasion and wear. And you still don't know if those are the correct blades for that machine.
If you've got a stump-jumper don't even bother trying to pull it. Locate the blade bolt and cut a hole in the deck to allow access. You'll need a 3/4-drive socket or a bushhog socket-wrench-on-a-stick blade wrench. My bolts are 1-7/8-inch. Yours will be different almost certainly. You MIGHT be able to fit a wrench over the lip of the tub-shape stump jumper. Others this forum report bending a wrench to gain access from the bottom.
If your first blade change go back with new special blade bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Clean the keyway on the blade carrier. Grease heavily when installing. Use thread lube on the bolt threads and tighten tight.
Change blades in pairs. Confirm installation per mfgs directions for orientation, direction of rotation, blade angle-up or -down. Spin by hand with blades straight to make sure not hitting deck anywhere. Support the unit if you're under it and DO NOT depend on tractor 3-point to hold it up. Might be easier to stand it up against a tree or stout fence post.
Grease gearbox and U-joints. Tighten 3-point lift pins and entire frame assembly.
Be prepared and keep in mind that blades can do and will bend and break---the first time it happens it'll scare you witless---turn off the PTO, clean the seat, and drive back to the house to replace both blades and retighten everything that shook loose.
Blades can be resharpened. See what new blades are like and duplicate on your blades when they need it. 4-1/2-inch hand angle grinder is just the ticket and can be done on the machine for a touch-up.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
Contact the manufacturer and wait on them to send you the Owner's Manual for that machine. You'll need to furnish them the Model Number off the tag. If not present they can guess pretty well based on your description. You may need to send them a photo via email.
Some blades can be hard to find in some areas. [Pertaining to another poster in another string:] You said you had two different blade lengths----one's been cut off, ground off, or you have one or both incorrect blades. You need to start fresh with the OEM part number or you'll never get it right. Some blades will have a number stamped on them somewhere if not worn off.
There are literally hundreds of different bushhog blades--make certain you have the correct offset and direction of rotation and mounting hole size---in addition to length.
Locally, I pay about $50 for a set of two blades for a 6-ft Howse.
You might want to go back with new mounting bolts. Make sure the stumpjumper keyway slot is clean and make certain when reinstalling bolts the keyways line up.
Check local pawn shop for large sockets, extension, and break-over bar or buy a bushhog wrench to fit. Use a cheater pipe and penetrating oil. Lube the threads and keyway with thread sealant (pipe dope, not LocTite) when going back together.
After removing the nut the blade bolt will probably be tight. Put the nut back on just to top of bolt and use a piece of wood to punch the bolt loose.
Sharpen blades annually or as needed by removing and using a 4.5-in hand grinder.
Check gearbox and use 85-140-W gear oil or per your unit specs. Some of their gearboxes have a level indicating plug, some don't.
Tighten EVERY nut on the entire implement and go back with new NyLock nuts.
Blades can, do, and will bend and break. First time it happens you'll have a strong desire to be someplace else. Get out of PTO as fast as you can, go back to shop, and install new blade set. Retighten all bolts, again.
Keep those U-joints greased. Replace missing zerks (one each end). Look carefully, may be sheared off.
Depending where you live and the stocking availability in your area you'll probably do better---cost-wise and seeing the replacment in person and even returning if incorrectly sized---to buy blades locally.
If this machine is new to you and you're not the original owner my suggestion would be to talk directly with the manufacturer and obtain the blade part number for that machine. And then buy locally if you can.
If you must, order your first set using that mfg part number.
Later, for future sets, you can shop for pricing using the KNOWN good sample blade.
Why you ask? I have seen used shredders with incorrect, torch cut, whittled, backwards, incorect rotation, upside-down, and everything in between blades. If you use what is now on the machine you truly don't know if it's correct for that use or not. I kid you not bushhog blades are magnets for errors. And believe it or not there are hundreds of possible blades to go wrong with.
As mentioned, some blades do have part numbers stamped into them. Most don't or are long gone due to abrasion and wear. And you still don't know if those are the correct blades for that machine.
If you've got a stump-jumper don't even bother trying to pull it. Locate the blade bolt and cut a hole in the deck to allow access. You'll need a 3/4-drive socket or a bushhog socket-wrench-on-a-stick blade wrench. My bolts are 1-7/8-inch. Yours will be different almost certainly. You MIGHT be able to fit a wrench over the lip of the tub-shape stump jumper. Others this forum report bending a wrench to gain access from the bottom.
If your first blade change go back with new special blade bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Clean the keyway on the blade carrier. Grease heavily when installing. Use thread lube on the bolt threads and tighten tight.
Change blades in pairs. Confirm installation per mfgs directions for orientation, direction of rotation, blade angle-up or -down. Spin by hand with blades straight to make sure not hitting deck anywhere. Support the unit if you're under it and DO NOT depend on tractor 3-point to hold it up. Might be easier to stand it up against a tree or stout fence post.
Grease gearbox and U-joints. Tighten 3-point lift pins and entire frame assembly.
Be prepared and keep in mind that blades can do and will bend and break---the first time it happens it'll scare you witless---turn off the PTO, clean the seat, and drive back to the house to replace both blades and retighten everything that shook loose.
Blades can be resharpened. See what new blades are like and duplicate on your blades when they need it. 4-1/2-inch hand angle grinder is just the ticket and can be done on the machine for a touch-up.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
One thing I didn't read above: Never sharpen bush hog blades to a fine edge. It's a waste of time and weakens the blade. Leave about 1/16" of flat face to impact point. My RCR1260 manual states this and it's meant to keep a strong face to the high velocity impacts. Bush hogs are finish mowers so they aren't set up 'sharp'.
I don't know about the 1860, but on my 1260, I have to keep the jumper disk area cleaned out on a regular basis or it throws the assembly out of balance.
I don't know about the 1860, but on my 1260, I have to keep the jumper disk area cleaned out on a regular basis or it throws the assembly out of balance.
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Tallahassee Kubota Man
New member
Equipment
M5140HD/LA1153/LandPride RCF2072/DirtDog disc/RakeMaster grapple/Caroni tiller
ShaunRH, you brought up an interesting subject for me. I've got an old LP RCR (?) 1560 rotary mower that gets buildup between the jumper disc and the top deck. Left too long it throws off the balance. I've never had that happen on other mowers.....my new 6' LP 2072 doesn't. On the old one the disc is very close to the deck surface, the newer one has more clearance. I'm guessing the clearance (or lack of it) is the culprit.
Blades??? Those things have replaceable blades? 
I have had a couple of rotary brush hogs (TSC and green) for years and years and put them through a lot of no mans land. and grassy fields I have wound all sorts of wires and such around them. But I really never saw reduced performance which would require new blades. All I do is rough cut fields and beat down small trees and such, but they seem to be working ok.
I don't know if I just have a diminishing slope of expectations that is warping my perspective but they seem to be doing ok for rough cut fields and brush.
I am kind of curious how often people replace blades on their bush hogs.
I have had a couple of rotary brush hogs (TSC and green) for years and years and put them through a lot of no mans land. and grassy fields I have wound all sorts of wires and such around them. But I really never saw reduced performance which would require new blades. All I do is rough cut fields and beat down small trees and such, but they seem to be working ok.
I don't know if I just have a diminishing slope of expectations that is warping my perspective but they seem to be doing ok for rough cut fields and brush.
I am kind of curious how often people replace blades on their bush hogs.
It's a design flaw. They make the assumption that whatever you are cutting will be ground up enough to not jam up at that point, but if you are going into growth that is several years old, it's an invalid assumption. I do not have the problem in areas that I have maintained before, but in the long, deep stuff, it really jams up! I'm probably going to eventually weld in some V shaped plates to cover the drop down area so it won't plug up. It will also improve airflow.
Tallahassee Kubota Man
New member
Equipment
M5140HD/LA1153/LandPride RCF2072/DirtDog disc/RakeMaster grapple/Caroni tiller
Shaun, same here. The larger "stringy" type vegetation is the worst. Hasn't been terribly difficult to remove through the hole in the deck, just aggravating!
I see you're in Atascadero. Spend a couple of nights there at a friend's place. Beautiful country out there.
I see you're in Atascadero. Spend a couple of nights there at a friend's place. Beautiful country out there.
If you know all your measurements, and direction of rotation, Agrisupply.com can generally get you what you need. I went to their Petersburg, VA store, in early march, and picked up a set that had been mounted backwards to they way they were supposed to be, off the discount shelf, for 5 bucks a piece. I recognized them on first sight, when I walked by them...
ShaunRH you mention, "One thing I didn't read above: Never sharpen bush hog blades to a fine edge. It's a waste of time and weakens the blade. Leave about 1/16" of flat face to impact point. My RCR1260 manual states this and it's meant to keep a strong face to the high velocity impacts. Bush hogs are finish mowers so they aren't set up 'sharp'."
Bush Hog is a brand, like Skill (Saw), Kleenex, Xerox, Cresent (Wrench). They manufacture both finish mowers and brush mowers.
Sharpening any mower blade is similar to sharpening a knife. The finer edge you put on it the sharper it will cut and the quicker the edge will diminish.
Finish mowers will/should have sharper blades. They are cutting smaller, finer grass and usually the user wants a better looking cut.
Brush mowers will cut some material but generally are left so dull they just whack off weeds and often trees any size the tractor operator is willing to drive over.
Bush Hog is a brand, like Skill (Saw), Kleenex, Xerox, Cresent (Wrench). They manufacture both finish mowers and brush mowers.
Sharpening any mower blade is similar to sharpening a knife. The finer edge you put on it the sharper it will cut and the quicker the edge will diminish.
Finish mowers will/should have sharper blades. They are cutting smaller, finer grass and usually the user wants a better looking cut.
Brush mowers will cut some material but generally are left so dull they just whack off weeds and often trees any size the tractor operator is willing to drive over.
I sharpen the 3 bush hogs that I use regularly, 1X a year. I have an old Neary blade grinder, same one that I use on lawn mower blades, I have it set for the steepest angle possible, and on the Bush hog type (aka brush mowers) I first grind a continuous flat edge, square to the bottom of the blade. Then I grind down to 1/16" of that flat face. I also weigh each blade, so the machines are balanced as good as I can get them. Just like any other mower blade, the machine is only as good as the balance...
D2Cat-
I am aware of the distinction in name, but some names are also synonymous with a function (Xerox = photocopy, etc.). Bush Hog is often used for "brush mower" as that was the initial common use for the mower type.
So, in context, I was referring to a brush mower, but thanks for detailing all that out for those that might have missed it.
I am aware of the distinction in name, but some names are also synonymous with a function (Xerox = photocopy, etc.). Bush Hog is often used for "brush mower" as that was the initial common use for the mower type.
So, in context, I was referring to a brush mower, but thanks for detailing all that out for those that might have missed it.