Oil Question please
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
In your neck of the woods - I would have no problem going with the 5-40.
Your tractor will love you in those cold winter start ups!
With the T6 you are getting an oil that is exceptional with viscosity and lubrication. I really do not see any disadvantages in using the T6
I just changed out whatever was in my '77 L185DT to 15W-40 Delo oil. It runs smoothly for me. It's supposed to have 10W-30 for this temperature range (Willamette Valley, Oregon) but going a little thicker both cold and at temperature doesn't seem to cause any problems. 1077 hrs on the meter
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I used the 15w-40 Kubota brand oil last change.
I just acquired my machine so I haven't completed but 1 change.
Next time I will use Rotella T5 SynBlend 15w-40.
I would love to use synthetic, however the manual doesn't state anything about the 5w-40 and I was just afraid to dump it in. I guess a blend is a slight step up.
I just acquired my machine so I haven't completed but 1 change.
Next time I will use Rotella T5 SynBlend 15w-40.
I would love to use synthetic, however the manual doesn't state anything about the 5w-40 and I was just afraid to dump it in. I guess a blend is a slight step up.
Thats how I felt about it, but Kubotas spec is 20 years old, I'm just checking here for confidence. Last change was T5 10w-30 semi.. it was fine and I think it ran better than 15w-40 Dino, but why not the best ? T 6 can't be beat in the cold..
I run Amsoil OE 10w-30 Synth which meets API CJ-4 specs. Prior, I ran Delo 15w-40, but got tired of the harder starts in the winter with 15w.
My UOA confirmed Synths are fine to use in old Kubotas. I'm happy with this oil that has 2400hrs on the clock.
Flagged data in my opinion is the residual left from the Delo formula I used prior.
My UOA confirmed Synths are fine to use in old Kubotas. I'm happy with this oil that has 2400hrs on the clock.
Flagged data in my opinion is the residual left from the Delo formula I used prior.
I agree. It would make me feel better if it were at least mentioned in the users manual or on their website. For fun I did Shells Oil Finder thing and it mentioned 10w-30 Conventional Rotella. Normally those oil finders push you to use the best synthetic that they have.
I use 15w-40 because that is what the dealer carries. My next change may be to 10w-30. My climate can be cold, but never really gets super cold like Michigan, and it can be hot, but not like Texas hot. Either way it will be Rotella T5 Synesthetic Bend more than likely.
beaterboss
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L3901, LA525-FEL, BMLX-3164 3pt Blower, 72" Coteck Sno Pusher, 60" Box Blade
I am considering running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in 10-30 in my L2501 when the time comes. I have always been very satisfied with Mobil 1, and I can't see why it wouldn't work well in my Kubota. Bought the tractor new in February and only have 11.6 hours on it, so I still have a while to go. I wont be using it much in Summer, and it gets wicked cold up here in Winter. It will likely take me until Fall to get to the first oil change anyway, so there's no rush in getting this done. I can't get the Rotella T6 up here...I have tried. I just hope the Mobil 1 will be up to the task.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I too am a fan of Mobil 1 - been using it for 30 years in all my auto's that don't burn oil. Make sure you get Mobil 1 for DIESEL however.....Mobil 1 for gas has a formula that takes care of gasoline blowby and the Diesel version will have a little different formula for the diesel blowby and all the other gasses and particles that can get their way to the oil.
Another thing to consider, IF you are going to run in a colder climate, YOUR best choice would run the 5 weight oil, the difference between a 10w and 5w is very visible at 20 F and below, remember, the first number is the viscosity of the oil, and in this case the lower the better! The last number is the protective qualities ONCE the oil is to operating temps. SO in a perfect world, a 0W-40 would be an excellent choice - and they DO make it! It would pour in cold like room temperature water, but once up to 200 F it would still have the productive qualities and viscosity of 40 weight oil.
Oils are getting better every year - the base oils and the modifiers are getting better too. My new car demands 0w-20......the tolerances on the new engines are so tight, like .00095 !
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/03/bearing-clearances/
- that a higher viscous number WILL not get into that tolerance UNTIL it gets hot....not a good idea. As we all know, most if not all wear occurs when we turn the key, an oil that flows freely will make an already great engine last EVEN longer!
Also - the lower front number allows less drag on the engine, thus better gas mileage, we dont really care about diesel mileage - but the flowability of the cold start is worth EVERY penny to protect your engine.
beaterboss
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L3901, LA525-FEL, BMLX-3164 3pt Blower, 72" Coteck Sno Pusher, 60" Box Blade
Well I bought a case of 10-30 Mobil 1. It doesnt specify "Diesel Engines" on it, so I'll probably just use it in my vehicle instead. It's not money lost for sure. Since I still have plenty of time before the first change, I will search out a 0-40 Mobil 1 for Diesel. I really appreciate the advice. I had not thought of all the intricacies that you mentioned, and wasnt aware they made a special Diesel blend. Thanks again !!
I think your looking for Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40..Well I bought a case of 10-30 Mobil 1. It doesnt specify "Diesel Engines" on it, so I'll probably just use it in my vehicle instead. It's not money lost for sure. Since I still have plenty of time before the first change, I will search out a 0-40 Mobil 1 for Diesel. I really appreciate the advice. I had not thought of all the intricacies that you mentioned, and wasnt aware they made a special Diesel blend. Thanks again !!
Well I put the T 6 in and I must say I noticed a difference, really fast starts and at very low idle the shake is almost gone, still there but not like before, I am surprised..
Which ever oil or weight you choose, make sure it's CF-4 or CK-4 classified oil. Don't use oil classified just for gasoline engines, for example SN or GL5. Those oils don't have enough phosphorus or zinc additive diesel engines need for adequate anti-wear protection. edit- Meant CJ-4 not CF-4 as I stated
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