Oil Pressure Gauge

[lmichael]

So I have a really nice AutoMeter Oil pressure gauge (mechanical) I had used on my old Honda 4514 as their oil pump was a weak point and there was no pressure warning or cutoff.
Anyway I bought the Autometer (it's mechanical). Now I want to out it on the Kubota G2160. I noted the oil sender also switches the power steering. Not sure why. I am looking at 2 different ways to do it. One, use a T fitting and keep the sender and add in my gauge, or jump the switch for the power steering and keep it on any time key is on.
So, looking for opinion on which to do, (though yeah part of me) might like to keep the idiot light (maybe even add in an alarm), and part of me feels it's over kill if I have a good gauge.
Also wondering if anyone knows the thread type/size?

 

[TheOldHokie]

So I have a really nice AutoMeter Oil pressure gauge (mechanical) I had used on my old Honda 4514 as their oil pump was a weak point and there was no pressure warning or cutoff.
Anyway I bought the Autometer (it's mechanical). Now I want to out it on the Kubota G2160. I noted the oil sender also switches the power steering. Not sure why. I am looking at 2 different ways to do it. One, use a T fitting and keep the sender and add in my gauge, or jump the switch for the power steering and keep it on any time key is on.
So, looking for opinion on which to do, (though yeah part of me) might like to keep the idiot light (maybe even add in an alarm), and part of me feels it's over kill if I have a good gauge.
Also wondering if anyone knows the thread type/size?

Use a tee or multiport junction block.

Dan

 

[85Hokie]

So I have a really nice AutoMeter Oil pressure gauge (mechanical) I had used on my old Honda 4514 as their oil pump was a weak point and there was no pressure warning or cutoff.
Anyway I bought the Autometer (it's mechanical). Now I want to out it on the Kubota G2160. I noted the oil sender also switches the power steering. Not sure why. I am looking at 2 different ways to do it. One, use a T fitting and keep the sender and add in my gauge, or jump the switch for the power steering and keep it on any time key is on.
So, looking for opinion on which to do, (though yeah part of me) might like to keep the idiot light (maybe even add in an alarm), and part of me feels it's over kill if I have a good gauge.
Also wondering if anyone knows the thread type/size?

I thought you were working on this 14 months ago? Did you not have chance to try it then?

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/sending-unit-threads.60712/

 

[ctfjr]

I can only tell you what I a doing on a similar project. I am teeing off from the oil pressure port. The tee will support one oil switch and one oil sensor. The sensor will be an input for my Arduino controller. I plan to have an LED readout of oil pressure, water temperature, battery voltage and current draw sitting on top of the dash.
If, after a startup delay, the oil pressure switch indicates low pressure OR the Arduino senses oil pressure below some level the display will change to a flashing warning and an external warning device will be actuated. I haven't decided on the external warning device. It will either be a red flashing 5 watt led (they are almost impossible to miss) or a very loud electronic 'horn'.
The advantage of the Arduino is I can use the external warning device for water temp or battery voltage and easily 'dial in' the settings I want. Plus learning the Arduino is a good experience.

Bottom line - use two warning devices/

 

[GeoHorn]

My Ferguson compactor/roller has an audible warning below 20 psi.….Teed to the press-gauge….I admit I like that feature.

 

[lmichael]

I thought you were working on this 14 months ago? Did you not have chance to try it then?

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/sending-unit-threads.60712/

Life has been a whirlwind and I totally forgot. My sister and I have been dealing with crisis after crisis with our dad. And actually while we had a brief respite late this past summer, things have been on a steady decline since. Even today I had to cancel something because of yet another crisis. So, two things happened. I totally forgot about the project and totally forgot about posting the questions.
I appreciate you finding it. MAYBE just maybe this spring I might be able to make some headway on this. But last year I barely had time to take a you know what.

 

[N3BP]

The T-Tap out of the block works well. I've been running this setup for a while now and it's been good. The tap and hose are all bspt threads. You just need a bspt to npt coupler to mount to the autometer sending unit and you're good to go, or a hose that has the different fittings at the ends...

 

[lmichael]

Just looked up BSPT. OK, now I am a bit confused. Why would a Japanese engine use a British standard fitting rather than a metric or NPT?
That is crazy.

 

[N3BP]

Just looked up BSPT. OK, now I am a bit confused. Why would a Japanese engine use a British standard fitting rather than a metric or NPT?
That is crazy.

BSPT is the "metric" version of a pipe thread.

 

[GeoHorn]

Whenever able, use the smallest hose/pipe possible to reduce the amount of oil lost in a sudden failure. A large hose (like a 1/4” or so that appears to be in that pic) is unnecessary and a bit scary to me. (A restrictor orifice at the engine block would perform the job as well.)

 

[N3BP]

Whenever able, use the smallest hose/pipe possible to reduce the amount of oil lost in a sudden failure. A large hose (like a 1/4” or so that appears to be in that pic) is unnecessary and a bit scary to me. (A restrictor orifice at the engine block would perform the job as well.)

That’s a grease gun hose rated for about 10 times the pressure it sees. There is absolutely nothing to worry about.