I have kicked...tugged and pried and I can not get the lift arms off the pins on my brush hog.... appreciate any advice on this....
Obviously I am Doing something (everything) wrong..
- Thread starter jaargh
- Start date
was delivered brand new on friday... cut my field down yesterday tried to take it off today...
Soak with penatrant (Kroil, Liquid Wrench...etc) for several days. Then use AIR HAMMER. (should be able to rent one for the day)
Make sure your compressor is up to the task.
UPDATE: If it is BRAND NEW.... ask the dealership to help out (perhaps loan you the air-hammer)
Make sure your compressor is up to the task.
UPDATE: If it is BRAND NEW.... ask the dealership to help out (perhaps loan you the air-hammer)
i have an air hammer.... are you saying on a brand new tractor i have to beat it apart??
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
Hate to ask this but are your check chains and turnbuckles or stabilizer arms adjusted to allow the lift arms to swing out and away from the pins? Or is it obvious that the lift arm balls are "froze" on the pins?
there is free play in the turn buckles and i gotta say... for what this cost and literally being brand new... soaking it with penetrant, letting it set for several days then beating the freaking thing apart... totally unacceptable!
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
So If understanding you correctly it appears as if the balls at the ends of the lift arms are rusted or froze onto the pin itself?
yes....
Yes.. they seem to be frozen to the pins.. arms rotate on the balls but won't budge... Impliment is sitting on the ground and all pressure is bled from system
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ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
Thanks for the picture! From my experience that is a strange one. I guess dirt of just the right size has gotten in between the pin and inside bore of the ball but I have never experienced this issue.
Sorry your having this trouble with a new machine!
Sorry your having this trouble with a new machine!
Granted it is new and should not have happened. How big of a deal is it for you to get the dealer out? I think if you tap the lift arm with a dead blow hammer (plastic) it will probably come right off without damaging the arm /paint. Strange that it seized as usually there is a little play in the pins.
Is there down ward pressure on your lift arms? There’s a point that takes the pressure off and let’s them move freely too a point. On mine there’s very little room to work and move the arms past the mower pins. Once you get them off invest in A quick hitch if you plan on taking implements on and off frequently, you’ll save yourself a lot of headaches.
I put my brush mower on something like a block or piece of wood in the front so I’m not having to lower the arms all the way down.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
get the correct size 'pickle fork' between hog and arm, few whacks, arm WILL come off
if you need extra spacers, large wrenches works well
once off .clean real good and slather on the neversieze.....
if you need extra spacers, large wrenches works well
once off .clean real good and slather on the neversieze.....
Had this happen to me once. My problem was too much slack in the turnbuckle causing it to lock up. Tightened it a couple of turns and it came off no problem. Hope that helps
Bmyers
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
That is dirty. I would blow it off, spray it clean with some brake cleaner hoping to break/flush some more of that dirt loose, and then lube well. Also, make sure you are on a level ground, twisting of the deck can create a bind making it more difficult to get off.
The nice thing with a QH, this isn't a problem.
If your implements hitch pins are mounted wide apart from each other (especially if your tractors lift arm spread is narrow to begin with) it can be a struggle to install/remove them. Also, from the picture....there might be a heavy coat of gray paint inside the swivel that is not helping. Mounting the hitch pins turned to the inside might be the answer if the problem is due to the wide distance between the implements hitch pins.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I have never used a quick hitch but have used a 3 point on several tractors for about 44 years so I feel your frustration. I don’t know you’re level of experience with 3 points so I hope I’m not insulting you with this answer.
First, looking at the photo it appears the whole lift arm, including the pin ball is quite rusty or maybe it’s gobbed up with paint. That’s odd on a new machine. I would speak to the dealer if it’s rusty.
If the balls are seized in the arms, you should be able to raise the mower deck off the ground, loosen or remove the stabilizers to allow as much side to side movement as possible and then push the deck side to side (as in get off the tractor while the deck is in the air with PTO off and shove it around by hand). That will break the balls loose from the lift arm if they’re seized by paint, rust, etc.
Second, we’ll assume there’s nothing restricting the lateral movement of the lift arms as I believe you already said the stabilizer links are loose. Personally, I have struggled to remove lift arms until I realized I forgot to disengage the stabilizers.
Third possibility: you think you have the pressure off the pins, and looking at it, it looks like you have the pressure off the pins, but you don’t have the pressure off the pins. The front of the mower should be resting on the ground. If the top link won’t allow that, shorten it until it does. Go ahead and disconnect the top link from the implement. Make sure the lift lever is all the way down so it’s floating. Shorten/lengthen the height adjustment turnbuckle on the adjustable lift arm until the pin is loose. If the top link and one lift arm are off and you have the three point lever all the way down, the last one should come off without a fight.
Last resort, which I have had rare occasion to use when something has to be removed on very uneven ground or is otherwise in an unavoidable bind: I have a 9lb hammer. Usually persuades the pins and arms to separate without penetrating oil. My Dad has a 16lb hammer. Never seen it fail. Admittedly you can’t get much of a stroke on it due to space restrictions so you can only hit it so hard, which is why the inertia of a big, fat, hammer is useful. If you’re concerned about bumming up the paint on your lift arms with a steel hammer, don’t use a steel hammer. I’m not sure why anyone would be concerned about bumming up the paint on a lift arm but not my tractor.
First, looking at the photo it appears the whole lift arm, including the pin ball is quite rusty or maybe it’s gobbed up with paint. That’s odd on a new machine. I would speak to the dealer if it’s rusty.
If the balls are seized in the arms, you should be able to raise the mower deck off the ground, loosen or remove the stabilizers to allow as much side to side movement as possible and then push the deck side to side (as in get off the tractor while the deck is in the air with PTO off and shove it around by hand). That will break the balls loose from the lift arm if they’re seized by paint, rust, etc.
Second, we’ll assume there’s nothing restricting the lateral movement of the lift arms as I believe you already said the stabilizer links are loose. Personally, I have struggled to remove lift arms until I realized I forgot to disengage the stabilizers.
Third possibility: you think you have the pressure off the pins, and looking at it, it looks like you have the pressure off the pins, but you don’t have the pressure off the pins. The front of the mower should be resting on the ground. If the top link won’t allow that, shorten it until it does. Go ahead and disconnect the top link from the implement. Make sure the lift lever is all the way down so it’s floating. Shorten/lengthen the height adjustment turnbuckle on the adjustable lift arm until the pin is loose. If the top link and one lift arm are off and you have the three point lever all the way down, the last one should come off without a fight.
Last resort, which I have had rare occasion to use when something has to be removed on very uneven ground or is otherwise in an unavoidable bind: I have a 9lb hammer. Usually persuades the pins and arms to separate without penetrating oil. My Dad has a 16lb hammer. Never seen it fail. Admittedly you can’t get much of a stroke on it due to space restrictions so you can only hit it so hard, which is why the inertia of a big, fat, hammer is useful. If you’re concerned about bumming up the paint on your lift arms with a steel hammer, don’t use a steel hammer. I’m not sure why anyone would be concerned about bumming up the paint on a lift arm but not my tractor.
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