Not sure what the best deal is or what model will best suit my needs...

[gotthelife75]

I am looking to purchase my first small tractor. Main task will be mowing 1/2 acre on a slope. Degree of slope ranges from 30 - 60 degrees which is flat at top and bottom of hill. Will use a loader for hauling tree limbs, dirt, snow, etc. and leveling of yard as needed. Will also purchase rear blade for leveling dirt and rocks in driveway. Rear mount tiller would be nice (and one used tractor has one).

I am looking at used BX series as I cannot find any used B series in southern IL at this time and do not really need that large of tractor.

Here are some I found with pricing:

1) BX2670 w/ FEL (do not know model #), dirve over MMM, no brush guard, industrial tires and 610 hrs for $12,500. Body in good shape.

2) BX2380 (2017) w/ LA344 quick attach FEL, 60" MMM, brush guard, turf tires and 299 hrs for $13,500. Spotless machine, loader barely used and still has all the paint, and rear PTO never used.

3) BX1870 (2015) w/ LA203 FEL, 54" MMM, 56" rear tiller (Black paint, cannot tell brand from pictures), brush guard, bar tires and 213 hrs for $13,900. Spotless machine and always kept in shed.

I had originally been looking at the BX23xx or BX26xx models due to higher hp. But then I came across #3 above that has a rear tiller. Again, that was a purchase I was looking to make in the future. Not a deal maker though as I have a very small garden and could always purchase a self propelled walk behind tiller.

I am leaning towards the BX2380 as it has the quick attach FEL, turf tires, and lower hours than the BX2670. I have concerns about how the industrial or bar tires will treat my lawn. Also, not sure if the BX1870 has the power I may need someday.

MMM width is not a factor with the small area I will be mowing.

I have found a used rear mount blade for $200 - $300. Dealer is getting in to sell on consignment and doesn't have final price yet.

Are those prices within the average? Anything I should look at carefully when I go to see the tractors in person? Not sure what "problem areas" to look for. I am new to the orange tractors. Grew up on dairy farm with JD, Case, AC, and Oliver.

Thanks in advance for anyone's help!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Those prices seem like good deal in todays world IMO.

That being said, I am struggling with the the simple math/geometry…I would not consider mowing a 60 degree slope with any machine of mine (I’ve had a BX and currently have a b and Mx). Maybe I am misunderstanding your description but please check my math / understanding.

If the full size of your 1/2 acre is on a slope it is not a reasonable expectation that you would be able to haul or turn or even operate on that degree of slope. Again I hope I am misunderstanding your meaning. I am understanding the minimum slope as 30 degrees…is that correct? I think if you could till the soil in some way on that slope there most likely will have a continuous challenge with corrosion if that’s even possible to do.

In my experience ( which doesn’t mean much) and I mean no disrespect, but I don’t think a slope as described you could have any reasonable expectation of side hilling or do much of anything safely with a any tractor I have ever been around or operated.

 

[michigander]

Deal #2 MSRP is 20K + , gets my vote
Deal #3 that tiller would challenge the tractor

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Mowing a 30 to 60 degrees slope with a BX is INSANITY!
And that's not even a BX without a FEL.
It will just end up badly!
About the only mower I would even consider on that slope would be a zero turn with a ROPS and a lot of extra clean underwear!

 

[gotthelife75]

rc51stierhoff -

I have included a few pictures of the hill in my back yard that I will be mowing only, no tilling. Garden is on flat area at top of hill.

The one side of the hill is approx. 15 degrees and at the other side of the yard may be closer to 40-45 degrees. Not a large area on the hill.

With my riding mower I do a couple of passes around the perimeter going up the smaller slope and down the greater slope. Then I mow at an angle going from bottom corner of lower side up the hill at an angle towards the side with larger slope (see red arrow in picture). Once I can't make the turn then I mow the 2 triangles left individually.

michigander -

I was leaning towards #2 as well and thought the same about the tiller on BX1870.

Anything I should look for on the BX2380? Not familiar with Kubotas to know if particular places leak oil, wear, etc.

 

[ZTMAN]

Sounds like you could use a Ventrac or Steiner

 

[rc51stierhoff]

The pics say a lot. That’s a nice place you got there. I don’t believe I understood the math. That is very different than the original written description from the way I interpreted it. Any of those machines should be able to handle that at least at a glance of my perception of the pic…45 degrees seems steep but it doesn’t look aweful in the pic…maybe I am still misunderstanding. Assuming all maintenance has been completed, none are really over used and 2 and 3 options seem like lightly used. I think you have a tough choice between the two? Extra attachment or extra HP, knowing full well for the use of the extra attachment the extra HP might be preferred. All three of those machines should be bullet proof if maintained. If the hour meter is true then the attachments could not have been used much. On the BX I had even with filled tires and ballast, it ran out of traction before tan out of Hp…this is in general using loader or skidding trees. It would do a lot…more than most would expect, however from the MMM I thought it was under powered in tall grass…for regular mowing it was fine. I think the same of my B though too….with HST it’s easy to slow down and let the mower catch up. Regarding the slope it sounds like you have a procedure already…you can always fill tires and put ballast on to give a little more margin…(split breaks would help but I don’t recall BX having split breaks). Personally I think the B as a BX with a lift and bigger tires and less stable than a BX…IMO. I am not sure how any of those would work with the tiller you mentioned. I would think if the garden already existing or previously filled it makes little difference…to break ground it may mean go a little slower, make shallow passes…and maybe a few more passes if it’s too much, but honestly I don’t know. Have fun shopping and keep us posted.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You're not going to be able to mow that the same way as you have been, it's too steep for a BX, it will roll on you!
You might be able to go straight up or straight down, but only in 4wd and be prepared for slide or spin.
And I wouldn't mow it with the loader on!

 

[imnukensc]

I'd go with #2 and if I were maintaining an already established gravel driveway, I'd look at a landplane before a rear blade.

 

[PaulL]

Angles are very hard to judge. I typically take a photo and then draw on it (as below), or I put a board on the hill and ask my phone what the angle is (the level in your phone can also tell you angles).

I think the blue lines are roughly 90 degrees and 45 degrees (they're freehand, no guarantees). I'd make that angle at the back about half of 45 degrees, so about 22 degrees. And that would be safe up and down on a BX, a little hairy if you're going along it in the angle your original red line is running. Not that you can't do it, it's just something I'd take care before doing. But I don't see any reason to run side to side when you can go up and down - you've got reasonable runout at top and bottom so if it gets away on you it'll stop at the bottom.

In terms of your original question as to which tractor - the 23HP is usually best buying. The one you describe has 60 inch mower (bigger than the 1870 with 54 inch), has quick attach, and the 80 series has the single lever coupler on the loader hydraulics, which I personally would like (many people don't like it - they have a reputation for leaking).

I don't personally find the drive over deck to be essential - on my old BX I used to use the FEL to lift the front wheels up, then skid the mower out under them. Works fine on concrete, a bit harder on grass (but I still used to do it). And the 26hp is really only of use if you're driving something demanding on the rear PTO - it can't put 26HP onto the ground via the wheels, even the 23HP can spin the wheels on any sensible terrain. And 23HP is enough to run the 60 inch deck.

In short - the 2380 has more HP and mower width than the 1870, is newer and fewer hours than both, and the 2670 is overkill for your needs.

 

[Bugzilla46310]

That slope would be a nice spot for a flower/decorative shrub garden and eliminate the need to mow.

 

[mikester]

Buy an old ford 8N or 9N for $3500. Buy a new 6 foot finishing mower $2400.

When you get tired of it buy a new SCUT

 

[radas]

Our front yard has slopes like that, I use a Ferris is600z ZTR mowing both parallel and perpendicular to the slope - the front can get a little squirrelly sometimes but it fares well. For 1/2 acre, if you don't 'need' a FEL, go with a ZTR.

The subcompacts you priced out seem fair in today's market - my FIL just got a few year old BX23 without a hoe with 40 hours on it for roughly $16 OTD so your prices seem reasonable.

 

[Freeheeler]

As an avalanche instructor I'm used to judging slope angles to prevent death. Although pics can be deceiving, I don't see anything there over 25ish. If it's dry a BX should mow that safely, a ZT would do it much faster If it's wet, come back when it's dry is my approach.

 

[Rdrcr]

Mowing a 30 to 60 degrees slope with a BX is INSANITY!
And that's not even a BX without a FEL.
It will just end up badly!
About the only mower I would even consider on that slope would be a zero turn with a ROPS and a lot of extra clean underwear!

I have the answer;

Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 S KW.

I mow areas of my property that are steeper than the hills illustrated by the OP. Based on my experience mowing my own property, this machine can mow that area safely.
Unfortunately, however, it only mows and is just as expensive as the tractors he’s considering.

That said, I mowed these same areas with my B2601 but….I had to mow them straight up and back straight down in 4WD. Never side to side!

Mike

 

[RCW]

Doubtful it’s as steep as the PO’s, but I’ve mowed it for 32 years. It’s steeper closer to the camera, off the corner of the house, and kind of variable.

This is 10th with a BX. Had just 2 garden tractors prior.

Obviously I side-slope all of it. Do it without wheel spacers. I would never suggest the OP’s slope with the loader on. I might try a SSQA with just the bucket off.

Just to be clear, don’t suggest nor recommend you do as I do. Only point is a BX is pretty stable.

Here’s a view from the other direction.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Definitely the 2380 out of those three, newest, reasonable hours and price!

 

[Henro]

Mowing a 30 to 60 degrees slope with a BX is INSANITY!
And that's not even a BX without a FEL.
It will just end up badly!
About the only mower I would even consider on that slope would be a zero turn with a ROPS and a lot of extra clean underwear!

I would add that if you really think you are going to mow a slope that is 60 degrees, you better reevaluate you slope method measurement...even 45 degrees is crazy steep...I would bet money, even if you were going straight up a 45 degree slope, you would lose traction before you could mow anything...60 degrees? Pie in the sky!

Edit: Now 60 percent would be something like 30 degrees. Perhaps that is what you really meant. Please clarify so you can get some realistic answers.

 

[Impala]

That BX18 will suck mowing with that hp and that hill.

 

[gotthelife75]

I ended up purchasing the BX2380 and love it. I have to mow the hill going up and down the slope. With the FEL and 4 wheel drive it climbs the hill with no problem. Going to buy a used rear blade tomorrow!