Newbie What and How to level this?

[davidmem]

I'm a newbie, getting a B2601. One of the things the neighborhood kids have asked me to do is level the volleyball court. It's about an 18-in drop from one corner to the other. Any suggestions on how to level this? Should I pick the center as a level point and cut the high point and raise the lower point? Yard continues to drop off gradually on the right hand side off this photo. Any attachments you'd recommend for doing this. Thank you.

 

[Tire Biter]

That’d be a lot of work for a 2601 what with the sod and everything. I’m thinking Bulldozer Time

 

[swpflipper]

Basically doing what you said. Find your finish grade height. Then remove the high material and add to the low spots. You need to compact the loose material or once the "fluff" settles you will have bumps and low spots.
I would use a box blade.
I would also use a laser level and a helper, to establish the cuts, but that's me.
You want to have a minimal slope for drainage.

 

[River19]

Box blade and some patience......maybe a few beers afterwards

 

[BigG]

A little box blade work should fix the problem. Remember to make the area longer and wider then the court itself. Simply move from the high side to the low side. Set up 4 corner posts in order to pull some strings so you know what level to grade to.

 

[aaluck]

Not sure if you have a good disc or not. I had to level an area. 1) spray with round up and wait for it to die. 2) Wait for a good rain and slowly till the area. Breaking new ground is tough and time consuming but once you have it started it speed up. The key (for me) is to 1) kill what is there and 2) make sure it is moist.

We do the same thing when we claim more deer fields to plant.

Easier option may to bring dirt in and smooth that to 'level'.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I leveled a 35 x 35 foot area for a pavilion style shed to be installed; it was 1.5 to 1 foot high on one end. I used my LX2610SU with its loader and a box blade, and I used a rotary self-leveling Bosch laser to determine level. It was not that difficult to get close. After getting close, I spread 18 tons of crusher gravel to make it very level.

I would suggest planning to make it close, and then spread dirt or sand to make it truly level.

 

[davidmem]

Basically doing what you said. Find your finish grade height. Then remove the high material and add to the low spots. You need to compact the loose material or once the "fluff" settles you will have bumps and low spots.
I would use a box blade.
I would also use a laser level and a helper, to establish the cuts, but that's me.
You want to have a minimal slope for drainage.

Thank you.... Been eyeing this for a few years.....

 

[jaargh]

I have a 48” box blade and while just playing around to see what I can do with it took down part of a dirt pile of about 50’ by 30’ about 18” in less than 2 hours. Another 45ish minutes with the rock rake REALLY smothed it out. I have a BX1880

 

[GeoHorn]

Rent a motor-grader and be done in an hour.

 

[Elliott in GA]

Rent a motor-grader and be done in an hour.

Where is the fun in that?

 

[WHW]

Where is the fun in that?

Running the motor grader

 

[davidmem]

Rent a motor-grader and be done in an hour.

I will need to look up what that is.

 

[je1279]

If you plan on using it more than once, purchase a box blade. They are super helpful for both land leveling and smoothing gravel drives. If I can buy an implement and do it myself vs. paying someone to do work for me, option A wins every time.

 

[davidmem]

If you plan on using it more than once, purchase a box blade. They are super helpful for both land leveling and smoothing gravel drives. If I can buy an implement and do it myself vs. paying someone to do work for me, option A wins every time.

I plan on smoothing and seeding about .75 acres. The box could be used for that as well?

 

[je1279]

I plan on smoothing and seeding about .75 acres. The box could be used for that as well?

A box blade is an excellent tool for smoothing and leveling land. For seeding, a chain harrow would be a better tool. I also use mine to dethatch the lawn in the spring.

 

[Henro]

I'm a newbie, getting a B2601. One of the things the neighborhood kids have asked me to do is level the volleyball court. It's about an 18-in drop from one corner to the other. Any suggestions on how to level this? Should I pick the center as a level point and cut the high point and raise the lower point? Yard continues to drop off gradually on the right hand side off this photo. Any attachments you'd recommend for doing this. Thank you.

As mentioned by others, you need a box blade to get what you want done relatively painlessly.

Remember, you only need to remove 9" from the high side and deposit on the low side to make the area level.

What about the surface afterwards? If you are going to replant grass, you need to save the top soil, and put back on top afterwards.

With a box blade, if you have top and tilt it makes use easy. You can fill the box, then tilt the front up, and drag it where you want to deposit and then lift and leave the contents there, and repeat. Not sure how one would do this manually without wasting LOTS of time each load. Personally I could not do it without T&T. But I am not young anymore!

 

[davidmem]

A box blade is an excellent tool for smoothing and leveling land. For seeding, a chain harrow would be a better tool. I also use mine to dethatch the lawn in the spring.

I thank you. What would the full processes be? Kill grass, box blade, then chain harrow to smooth before seeding?

 

[davidmem]

As mentioned by others, you need a box blade to get what you want done relatively painlessly.

Remember, you only need to remove 9" from the high side and deposit on the low side to make the area level.

What about the surface afterwards? If you are going to replant grass, you need to save the top soil, and put back on top afterwards.

With a box blade, if you have top and tilt it makes use easy. You can fill the box, then tilt the front up, and drag it where you want to deposit and then lift and leave the contents there, and repeat. Not sure how one would do this manually without wasting LOTS of time each load. Personally I could not do it without T&T. But I am not young anymore!

Not sure exactly how and what the top and tilt is and how it would work..... Does that run off off rear hydraulic ports? I won't have those......I did add a third function for up front.

Does T&T change the attack angle? Can't I "dump" the box full by raising the 3 point? And yes, I would need to bring in some top soil after, unless I scraped all the top first..... Then replaced it.


Total newbie.....

 

[Henro]

Not sure exactly how and what the top and tilt is and how it would work..... Does that run off off rear hydraulic ports? I won't have those......I did add a third function for up front.

Does T&T change the attack angle? Can't I "dump" the box full by raising the 3 point? And yes, I would need to bring in some top soil after, unless I scraped all the top first..... Then replaced it.


Total newbie.....

Yes, the T&T cylinders are hydraulically operated. What I was referring to mostly was the hydraulically operated top cylinder.

I am am not sure how well just lifting the box blade would work after filling it, while it is still angled down. I am spoiled by having the ability to lift and angle it in a second or two. It has been about 15 years since I installed my top and tilt hydraulics and cylinders.

Hopefully someone one who uses a box blade without hydraulic T&T can input their experience on how easy (or difficult) it is to use a box blade with only manual adjustability.