Newbie tire questions

[DenmanBC]

I'm preparing to order my tractor (L3302 or L3902) and need to decide on tires. I'm leaning toward R14 vs R4.
The only tractor tires I know were R1 agricultural on my Uncle's dairy farm when I was a kid, but I have been told these will not be kind to the few finished areas on my property.

Main applications with the new tractor are maintaining rough grass/brush with a rotary cutter, removing brush/broom, maintaining 6" wide walking trails through second growth west coast forest, moving logs from downed firs, moving rocks, grading and light landscaping, and gravel driveway maintenance. Occasional/rare snow clearing from driveway.

A neighbour is recommending R14's as he has had great experience on a similar property with L series tractor. A reply to a previous post of mine suggested that R4's are more durable. Advice?

I definitely plan to get ballast (beat juice) in rear tires. Super newbie question about filled tires - Do you need to check/maintain air pressure in ballast filled tires?

Thanks

 

[85Hokie]

I have R4's and like them - BUT, if I could for free - I would go with the R14's

 

[NCL4701]

Properly filled tires are filled to about 75%, so there’s still an air pocket, and yes you still check and set air pressure. Always check with the valve at 12 o’clock and depress the valve stem for at least a fraction of a second to blow any residual fluid in the valve stem out before checking pressure. Or get a gauge that’s rated for fluid. For rears, I would suggest around 15psi. YMMV.

 

[jyoutz]

The R14s are a nice compromise between traction and being gentle on the ground. But for your purposes going in the woods, I would choose R4. They have the most rigid sidewalls and are more durable riding over sticks and rocks.

 

[armylifer]

The R14's should be a good compromise for you. You mentioned that you are concerned about tearing up the ground in a finished area. The R4's will tear it up really bad if it is grass on top soil.

 

[DenmanBC]

Properly filled tires are filled to about 75%, so there’s still an air pocket, and yes you still check and set air pressure. Always check with the valve at 12 o’clock and depress the valve stem for at least a fraction of a second to blow any residual fluid in the valve stem out before checking pressure. Or get a gauge that’s rated for fluid. For rears, I would suggest around 15psi. YMMV.

Very helpful. Thanks

 

[DenmanBC]

The R14s are a nice compromise between traction and being gentle on the ground. But for your purposes going in the woods, I would choose R4. They have the most rigid sidewalls and are more durable riding over sticks and rocks.

Traction is more important to me than gentle, so if R4s are tougher and have better traction then I think I would lean R4.
Thanks

 

[DenmanBC]

The R14's should be a good compromise for you. You mentioned that you are concerned about tearing up the ground in a finished area. The R4's will tear it up really bad if it is grass on top soil.

What about comments here that R4s are tougher? There are lots of sticks and rocks on my property, and if it is true that R4s are a lot tougher then I might be wiling to sacrifice some finished areas.

 

[DenmanBC]

I have R4's and like them - BUT, if I could for free - I would go with the R14's

I'm hearing from others that R4s may be tougher. Why would you switch to R14s if they were free?

 

[jyoutz]

The R14's should be a good compromise for you. You mentioned that you are concerned about tearing up the ground in a finished area. The R4's will tear it up really bad if it is grass on top soil.

I’ve never had that situation with R4’s. They only would be an issue is the ground was soft and wet, and anything would tear up grass under those conditions.

 

[jyoutz]

I'm hearing from others that R4s may be tougher. Why would you switch to R14s if they were free?

The new R4’s that Kubota uses are awesome and the grooving greatly increase traction. Go look at them.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

Good day.

I don’t have a solution or tire recommendation for you but…

I would suggest consider your year round normal weather patterns, terrain and likely uses, and plan for whichever you prioritize…there may not be one that is perfect.

My assumption is that your area may deal with more cold and snow than I do…I don’t know that to be true…just a guess. The f dealing with snow I’d be thinking about how you plan to handle snow…tire by itself, studs or chains…then does it matter which tire you choose? For your year round uses?

I am not sure you deal more with wet / soft, roots and rocks, hard pack ground, snow, etc.

Anyway there are lots of variables.

if worried about tire ballast, which tire will hold more?

If worried about traction on whatever your ground conditions are that might be one choice. If worried about cuts / abrasion and number of ply’s to the tire, that’s maybe a different option. If you plan to play in the dirt/mud and it have ground engaging tasks, then maybe prioritize traction.

Anyway YMMV.

I don’t know that there is a wrong choice between the two you are considering.

 

[Hoserman]

I have the R14's on this tractor and I love them. The turf tires I had on my old tractor were not very forgiving on the green stuff I have that I mow. I won't call it grass, it's a Heinz 57 variety of grass, and a vast number of weeds and then there are a few spots that have the prettiest green moss. I guess that's to be expected when you live in the woods.

 

[chim]

Every now and then I develop a brief interest in different tires, but for he last 23 years the main tires have been R4. The Ford still runs R1's but that's what it was born with. I grooved the R4's on the last two tractors and they work fine in snow and ice without chains.

Damage to the grass depends a lot on the soil you're dealing with. My heaviest tractor has been easier on the grass than the smaller ones I've had. I always mow without the loader and in 2WD. If I used 4WD and made tight turns it wouldn't work well. Post 13 below shows our yard being mowed 3 days after it was flooded.

Grass

If this rain and weather don't let up soon I'm going to need a cycle bar to mow the front yard !!!!

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Blue2Orange]

OP, just my experience dealing with snow for more than a couple decades on a tractor that had R1. Traction is zilch on hard packed slippery snow. Rear mounted snowblower that I could only run downhill under those conditions. Normally I like to take the first run (downhill) using the bucket as "plow". But the R1 lacked bite resulting in crabbing. Assuming similar on the new BX with R4s. With either no amount of weight is effective. Chains or studs.

Got into some soft and muddy conditions several days ago. R4s had no issues with traction. Went with R4s this time v. R1s. People have noted they are tougher tires for trail use. Tractor and chainsaw are my wood "harvesting" machine. Trails in spot are soft due to spring moisture seeps. Any tire will dent the surface. Usually by July 4th dry enough along the seasonal moist and soft areas to allow for smoothing. Never ending maintenance. More so now that my neighbor who brushed it has moved. Traded hunting opportunities and firewood for brushing. Now I need to purchase a brush hog. Darn poplar saplings keep popping up like dandelions. White tail deer when we had an overpopulation grazed them down. Now the population is as it should be, but I have poplar issue in any area with decent sunlight.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I have poplar saplings too--fast growers! I purchased a flail mower.

I keep the bucket on and tilted up at a low height so it pushes over small stuff and stops the tractor on big stuff that requires a chainsaw--I can't always see what's beyond which hazel* leaves/branches so the bucket keeps things out of my face and protects the tractor and mower from hidden rocks, logs, trees that grew "too fat to flail," and "the unexpected."

*technically witch hazel, but with as dense as it grows I'm never sure which stalk to cut with the pole pruner to get it out of my face when landscaping.

 

[DenmanBC]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am hearing that the new version of R14's here have better sidewall and puncture resistance (12 ply vs 4) and better traction in wet/snow, so I'm back to leaning R14.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am hearing that the new version of R14's here have better sidewall and puncture resistance (12 ply vs 4) and better traction in wet/snow, so I'm back to leaning R14.

Its a nice debate but probably meaningless in your situation.

I have similar usage and the R4s on my L3901 do everything I need. If its soggy wet I try to stay off the manicured lawn areas but its not a disaster if I cant. Traction is way more important than a few skid marks that will heal in short order.

Dab

 

[Survivor]

The R14s are a nice compromise between traction and being gentle on the ground. But for your purposes going in the woods, I would choose R4. They have the most rigid sidewalls and are more durable riding over sticks and rocks.

The woods are just full of mean pokey things - ask any logger.