new owner of a b6200. never done diesel before. The Kubota manual calls for #2 diesel fuel. Is that the diesel I would buy at your typical gas station? I'm assuming "yes." And, do people use any additives? I hear it's important to not let the tank get too low. I can manage that. I don't want to ignite a war on this topic. Just looking for wisdom for a first timer. Thanks!
newbie fuel question
- Thread starter Tobers
- Start date
I'm no expert, but yeah, gas station fuel is #2 Diesel, at least it is down here in the South.
I know several people here use additives, including algicide and anti-gel in the winter.
I only use Howes lubricant in my diesel fuel as I have an older tractor that could probably benefit from it, and I don't think it hurts anything in the Kubota.
I know several people here use additives, including algicide and anti-gel in the winter.
I only use Howes lubricant in my diesel fuel as I have an older tractor that could probably benefit from it, and I don't think it hurts anything in the Kubota.
Yes to just getting diesel from you local gas station. Try to use a station that has a high turnover so it is fresh. As far as additives, I use anti Jel in the winter( northern Minnesota) and algicide in the summer months. Your requirements may very
I won't talk brands as everyone has their's. Out on the farm we get bulk dyed #2 off road diesel. Not a lot of stations have off road diesel so you will probably just buy #2 road diesel at your favorite station and run it. I only run additives in the winter and cut my #2 with #1 50/50 for winter. Try to not run it out of fuel as bleeding one is no fun. Might want to change the fuel filter and service the tractor if you don't know the history on the tractor.
Being from North Carolina ,I doubt you will need anything but diesel fuel from any pump.
Don't overthink it!
Good Luck!
Don't overthink it!
Good Luck!
After readiing entries on this site for the last few months it's clear that water or debris in diesel is a common problem and can cause significant engine issues. If you are storing diesel in a 5 gallon container as opposed to a larger tank with a dedicated filter consider a filtering device such as "Mr Funnel". It's cheap insurance.
Welcome to the forum!
Its important for you to keep the tank as full as possible to manage condensation that can form in the tank and provide the water to support bacteria that live in the fuel/water interface. They are the cause of the snotty sludge that forms in diesel fuel tanks. You can't eliminate condensation but you can minimize it.
The other reason to keep the fuel tank from getting low is you can minimize the chance of running it out of fuel. Running it out of fuel means you have to bleed the fuel system to get it started. It will happen to you at least once (don't ask me how I know this) so read up on the procedure so when it does you'll know what to do.
Once again welcome. You'll find the people here ready, willing, and able to help you.
thank you! I'll start by keeping it filled up, and maybe getting a mr funnel. Can I ask the same question about oil? The manual says I need 10w-30 oil that meets "CC or CD" specifications, but I looked at every oil and didn't find one. Maybe it's because the instructions are more than 30 years old! Keeping it simple, what should I run? thank you.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Don't sweat the #2 diesel thing. It won't hurt your engine if you get #1 or blend of the two. #2 has a higher energy content and is usually a bit cheaper, so it is preferred in warmer weather, but it contains paraffin so it gels in cool weather (around 18°F). #1 is almost paraffin-free, so it has a much lower gel temperature (around -40°F). Most stations will carry a blend that is suitable for the local seasonal conditions. It's not usually an issue except for truckers who filled up in a southern state or those that bought diesel in bulk during the warmer months. There are additives, but usually they can only lower the gel point 10 or 12° as they don't get rid of the paraffin, just lower the temperature at which it can gel.
CC/CD SAE oil specifications are obsolete and no longer available. Current standard are CH-4 and CI-4, either of which is a suitable substitute. Basically, if it is sold as a Diesel engine oil then it should be fine in your tractor; you only have to worry about it if you are contemplating a stash of 20 year old bottles you found in the back of the barn.
CC/CD SAE oil specifications are obsolete and no longer available. Current standard are CH-4 and CI-4, either of which is a suitable substitute. Basically, if it is sold as a Diesel engine oil then it should be fine in your tractor; you only have to worry about it if you are contemplating a stash of 20 year old bottles you found in the back of the barn.
Red dyed or not, it’s an equivalent formula at the same station for the same season. The reason for me to run red dyed is it’s about 50 cents cheaper per gallon. Of course, a smaller percentage of total price since fuel prices have gone up.
I do run PowerService Diesel Kleen. It adds some Cetane which helps your engine run cleaner, but also adds lubrication which helps everything run smoother as well.
I do run PowerService Diesel Kleen. It adds some Cetane which helps your engine run cleaner, but also adds lubrication which helps everything run smoother as well.
this is all so helpful. many thanks. We will see 18 degrees ... just not very often. Glad to have the oil mystery solved, too! Since everyone has been so helpful on fuel and oil, what about UDT? Is that a Kubota only product? And, is a gallon the smallest size? I have an HST, and it appears low on the dipstick, so I was looking for a quart. But maybe I should just anticipate when I need to change it out and get a gallon. thank you!
Agreed, only difference in the low sulfer diesel here in my state is the dye: green (taxed) and red dyed (untaxed off road). Long gone are the good old days of off road high sulfur fuel.
I also use diesel kleen in my machines.
In Maine our #2 fuel oil (to heat the house) is now low sulfur. I will use that or get off road diesel. I store it in 2, 55 gallon drums. That's about a years worth of fuel for me. I don't want it setting around any longer than that. I use power service summer blend in the summer, winter blend in the winter. Haven't had a gelling problem yet, but tractor is stored in heated building. ( only 40 degrees)
One of the most often fuel related issues is not the fuel itself, but fuel flow to the lift pump and injection pump. The first place a blockage can occur is at the tank outlet, and this is always (almost) caused by debris in the tank. Get yourself a fuel tank inlet screen because sure as shootin, sooner or later junk will fall into the tank, and you won't even be aware it happened.
thanks! a wealthy of wisdom around here. I'm out of town ... will check on return, but I think I have a screen. I bought a justrite 5 gallon can, used diesel kleen, filled up the tractor. Changed the oil (made a mess when the aluminum baking pan I used buckled in half under the weight of the oil). Any advice on the UDT? My transmission seems low. Is that just a Kubota product? Order online? thanks.
Buy the Kubota UDT 2 and a filter, and change it now, so you will know for certain how many hours is on the oil itself. You probably have little to no knowledge of the maintenance history of the tractor, so if you do all the services now, you will know going forward what has to be done and when. I suggest that you purchase it locally at a Kubota dealer, and start having a relationship with them. You never know when you will need their assistance. When buying parts, have them put your name on the invoice, instead of "cash sale", so it will start to generate a history with them. The only time that I don't buy from a local dealer is when they don't have the part in stock, and can't get it in a reasonable time frame. Then I will purchase it from Messicks, and they usually have it in stock. If you order a part from the local dealer, make sure that they put it onto the stock order, rather than a "special" order, where they will charge you shipping. I had my tractor into the local dealer for service, and then claimed that they needed to order the part. Took 2 weeks to get the part, and they charged me $20 shipping. The part was the shim to increase the hydraulic pressure. Needless to say, I don't use that dealer for anything now! Some dealers are fair with the customer, and others like to make their money, the old fashioned way... Pick your pocket every chance they can.
Got some UDT2, 3 minutes before the dealer closed. Will first try to get to get it to the right level on the stick. Then. I'll do a full service once the weather cools down. Getting there!
UDT is Kubota only. There's UDT, S-UDT, UDT2 I think. IIRC the UDT is mineral oil, the S-UDT (super UDT) is synthetic. You can't mix synthetic and non-synthetic, you can mix UDT and UDT2. I'd hazard a guess that an older tractor probably doesn't have UDT in it anyway - it'll have cheap no-name brand. Better to replace as you are doing.