New User, big B3300SU problems
- Thread starter jbthompson
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whitetiger
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Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Ordered a boroscope, should be here today and will check pickup tube. Talked to many dealerships yesterday and most just wanted to split the tractor to check the pickup tube. Seems like a lot just to do that. Can scope in 5 minutes, but most claimed that didn't have a scope.
Also talked with Kubota Corp about any kind of assistance on this and they basically laughed. Ten year old tractor, doesn't matter that its less than 200hrs. So, no more Kubotas after this one...
Will post what I find later as it may help someone else.
Also talked with Kubota Corp about any kind of assistance on this and they basically laughed. Ten year old tractor, doesn't matter that its less than 200hrs. So, no more Kubotas after this one...
Will post what I find later as it may help someone else.
I hope you get your tractor running without too much trouble/expense.
I find this comment almost hilarious, "Also talked with Kubota Corp about any kind of assistance on this and they basically laughed. Ten year old tractor, doesn't matter that its less than 200hrs. So, no more Kubotas after this one..."
Because a company won't help with your repair, you don't want to own another one! Can you name anything you own that is ten years old that the manufacturer will support you on when something fails? Your car/truck, home air conditioner, guttering, tires, batteries, concrete that cracks, door locks, cell phone, computer, your tape measure.... just remind me of one product that you'll get help on after 10 years!
I find this comment almost hilarious, "Also talked with Kubota Corp about any kind of assistance on this and they basically laughed. Ten year old tractor, doesn't matter that its less than 200hrs. So, no more Kubotas after this one..."
Because a company won't help with your repair, you don't want to own another one! Can you name anything you own that is ten years old that the manufacturer will support you on when something fails? Your car/truck, home air conditioner, guttering, tires, batteries, concrete that cracks, door locks, cell phone, computer, your tape measure.... just remind me of one product that you'll get help on after 10 years!
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I think the borescope is a fool's folly as the chances of you being able to see anything in there is slim to none, you'll be able to look at the bottom of the pan directly under the dipstick tube, and it's really black in there!
"Talked with Kubota Corp about any kind of assistance on this and they basically laughed. Ten year old tractor, doesn't matter that its less than 200hrs. So, no more Kubotas after this one..."
Come on you have to realise that getting any warranty help on a ten year old tractor is like reaching for the stars and expecting to pull in stardust... right?
The fact that you have noise means something is messed up, more than likely the bearings.
The only way you'll be able to inspect them is to pull the engine apart.
But I'll be willing to bet it will just end up on craigslist, still broken and not worth a whole lot.
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I realize that help on a 10yr old machine was questionable, but when most look at buying equipment, don't most people look at the hours first. I always have and this machine has less than 200hrs on it.
Been in sales/engineering for 20+yrs and we always stand behind our products, even some out of warranty such as this with low use...
Still hopeful on the scope, should know tomorrow what it shows. A cheap $50 alternative to splitting the tractor to diagnose or just another toy in my toolbox. Have had four other K's and never a hiccup before.
Been in sales/engineering for 20+yrs and we always stand behind our products, even some out of warranty such as this with low use...
Still hopeful on the scope, should know tomorrow what it shows. A cheap $50 alternative to splitting the tractor to diagnose or just another toy in my toolbox. Have had four other K's and never a hiccup before.
BAP
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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Any possibility that the hours are wrong on the machine? Hour meter could have been changed at some point or disconnected. Could be there was problems before you bought it.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Are you going down the dipstick hole or draining the oil and going in the drain plug hole? I don’t the camera I have would no fit into the dipstick hole.
Please just reply back with what you did and how it works out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Please just reply back with what you did and how it works out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Went through the drainplugs on the bottom. Got a real good look at it and looks to be in place. One more thing I'd like to do before pulling the front gear case off to check the pump is to place a suction pump at either the filter or the pressure switch and see if I can draw oil up from the pan.
Where would be the best place to do this? I am assuming that oil flows from the pan/pickup to the filter then to pump and then by the switch. Is this correct? Also is the center of the filter the incoming oil?
Any help on the flow direction would be appreciated.
Where would be the best place to do this? I am assuming that oil flows from the pan/pickup to the filter then to pump and then by the switch. Is this correct? Also is the center of the filter the incoming oil?
Any help on the flow direction would be appreciated.
Which borescope did you get? Been thinking about getting one to have around.
On my L35, the suction goes direct to the oil pump. From the pump discharge it goes by the relief valve to the filter. Flows from the outside inward in the filter. The oil pressure switch is off the rear cam bearing.
On my L35, the suction goes direct to the oil pump. From the pump discharge it goes by the relief valve to the filter. Flows from the outside inward in the filter. The oil pressure switch is off the rear cam bearing.
Bought this one> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZH9P8QH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seems to be decent quality. Thanks for the tip on the flow...
Seems to be decent quality. Thanks for the tip on the flow...
I’m thinking the oil pump “lost it’s prime”. Fill a grease gun with engine oil and pump it into the engine via the oil pressure sending unit fitting. This will re-fill the galleries and the oil pump trochoid gears. The next engine start should produce fast oil pressure.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner... Oil pump and oil pump rear case for the win. Looks as if the when the PO replaced the seal in front of the oil pump, he placed the chamfered collar on backwards, flat side facing the o-ring and possibly put increased pressure on the oil pump assembly by doing so. The outer ring of the pump is cracked.
Anyway, crank bearings seem tight and within tolerance. Ordering all new parts today, hopeful that everythings good once back together.
Anyway, crank bearings seem tight and within tolerance. Ordering all new parts today, hopeful that everythings good once back together.
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Less than 200 hours and it's already been into? Make sure everything's in there and right.
D'you order that WSM yet?
D'you order that WSM yet?
Curious... What makes you think the previous owner repaired the seal? Could it have been from a piece of metal that was sucked up into the pump? It doesn't take much to take up the spacing between the gears.
How did you measure the crank bearings to know they are within tolerance? Did you remove the rod caps to check condition of rod bearings?
Wishing you long term success with the repair.
found a download of the engine manual and going by that. The PO told me he had replaced the seal. No I didnt open engine up. Just checked play at the crank snout. Putting in the pump and new parts and hoping for the best... If not, I'll buy a new motor or have this one rebuilt.
Did it mess up the case?
Hope your diagnosis is right.
One little metal bit down in the pickup and you may be here again. I don't know how to clean it without dropping the pan. Any way to get a high flow vacuum through there before you put the new pump on?
Hope your diagnosis is right.
One little metal bit down in the pickup and you may be here again. I don't know how to clean it without dropping the pan. Any way to get a high flow vacuum through there before you put the new pump on?
case seems good, had a buddy thats a machinist check it last night. Parts should be here today, fingers crossed shes OK... Just spent $14K on this thing, trying to minimize my spend any further.
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Thinking what I would do if it was mine.
Plenty of oil will bypass the element especially on a cold start.
What happened in the few short seconds before the light came on?
Did any shrapnel make it into the passage going to the filter?
I'd pull the filter and see if it's possible to blow / flush out that passage. Outer passage, not the center.
Open that oil filter with a pipe cutter now to check for chips.
Sounds like you already have a minute or so running without lubrication... to minimize any more damage I'd make, beg, borrow, or steal a pre-oiler tank from someone. Engine builders and race car guys usually have them.
That few precious seconds of running again without lube while waiting for it to prime may cause more bearing coating loss.
Just thinking out loud in text.
Plenty of oil will bypass the element especially on a cold start.
What happened in the few short seconds before the light came on?
Did any shrapnel make it into the passage going to the filter?
I'd pull the filter and see if it's possible to blow / flush out that passage. Outer passage, not the center.
Open that oil filter with a pipe cutter now to check for chips.
Sounds like you already have a minute or so running without lubrication... to minimize any more damage I'd make, beg, borrow, or steal a pre-oiler tank from someone. Engine builders and race car guys usually have them.
That few precious seconds of running again without lube while waiting for it to prime may cause more bearing coating loss.
Just thinking out loud in text.
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