I've recently bought a B2650 and i should have it in a couple of weeks. Did a quick search and didn't find anything on the topic. Do you need to break in these tractors or can you just go right to work?
New Tractor break in
- Thread starter Twigsy
- Start date
I've tried to keep mine under 1800 rpm until 50 hour service. Don't recall where I read that, probably here, though.
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Do not be afraid to run it, mow, do what ever you need to do, main thing it to run rpms up and down, so they say. My self I ran mine like I stole it from day one, and she runs as good now as the first day. These motors are built to use, one thing you might remember is not to lug the motor down, meaning dont use it so the motor feel like it is straining to do what you want to do. While diesel motors are a torque motor they still have to keep rpms up to get the work done
Kubota is usually vague on the matter. I have always done similar to the above posters (no full throttle or PTO speed use) and I vary the rpms during use.
Here is the B2650 manual section :
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Here is the B2650 manual section :
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Read your manual, it gives requirements and hints, and will give you a basic understanding of your tractor. I think the suggestion of not running it at a constant rpm is key for break in. I kept mine below 2000 rpms for the 50 hours break in, luckily it was summer time and I didn't need the max like I do for snow plowing. Now I run it at around 2000 depending on the job, mowing I use a brush hog so rear PTO and I try to be round 520 rpms which puts the engine rpms just over 2000.
Did you get a cab model? If so and you want to put rear work lights on there is an electrical connector for a switch in your cowling. You have to take it lose to get to it, taped to wiring harness.
Did you get a cab model? If so and you want to put rear work lights on there is an electrical connector for a switch in your cowling. You have to take it lose to get to it, taped to wiring harness.
The piston rings in the engine are best seated by varying RPM and not operating at wide open throttle. That said, of the three Kubotas I bought new, none of them had more than just an hour or two on them before they went flail mowing fields for hours on end at wide open throttle. None of them seem to be affected by it.
The non cab models (and basically every Kubota tractor) will have this as well, typically under the right-side fender taped into the harness headed to the tail lights. This wiring will be operational only with the tractor running.
shootem604
Member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L245DT with Kubota (Arps Model 22) FEL and Kubota B/L4520B (Woods 650) BH
Even the old ones have it to, the L245 and L225 both have a lead there for a work light (except it is under the left fender).
TripleR
Active member
Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
I'm on my 5th Kubota, still own four. Not unlike many others, stop short of running running full throttle. Don't baby it, but work it allowing for varying RPMs, even drop down to an idle once in a while, but your break in won't affect your work. I usually let a naturally aspirated tractor cool off a bit before shut down, but that's just me.
Side Note: These are built to work and if you use it like you stole it or abuse it, given proper maintenance, any arising problems are years down the road.
Side Note: These are built to work and if you use it like you stole it or abuse it, given proper maintenance, any arising problems are years down the road.
Also important is proper tractor warm up, break in period and everyday after. Engine, Transmission and Hydraulic Fluids should be warm before put to work. The Manual states proper glow plug and engine warm up timings. The colder the outside temperature, the longer the warm up. Block Heater highly recommended for colder climate areas.
The older I get, the more I am convinced that Break in Periods on anything are simply mere wife's tales. Truck, tractor, boat, or race bike. Matters little. Never have I had anything that I felt ended its life prematurely due to a lack of "Proper Break-in procedure. After the first 20 minutes the rings and cylinder walls will be broken in as they are going to be or at least in the early stages of life. Just MHO.
I mostly agree. In fact, many vehicles today do not even have a specific "break in" period or procedure. My last Ford dually only said not to tow for 1000 miles, for the purpose of the differential ring and pinion gears mating to each other. Nothing about the engine. Nevertheless, general good practice is to try to vary RPM ranges during the early hours of any engine.
Glad I stumbled on this thread this morning. I've got a brand new L2501 (7.8 hours on it) and had never heard of "breaking in" a tractor. Ive done a couple heavy loader lifting jobs in the first 7 hours and then done some box blade work in a horse pen and on driveways. Ill try to take it easy the first 50 hours. Im just wondering, would it perhaps be beneficial to just ride the tractor around for the first 30-50 hours? I could go home and just make a round around the horse pasture everyday after work, just to put some riding hours on it. I say this because I'm someone who will likely not put 100 hours on the machine per year, so usually when I do get on it it will be to do a job. To help break it in however I could just 'joy ride' on it around the property a little everyday or so.
These machines are way too expensive to piss away hours on them for break-in emotional well being. Just use it sensibly (if at all concerned.)
I hear you. I just know that for my particular case, I may not even hit 50 hours on it this calendar year, so if breaking in a tractor is a real thing, I could speed that up. Id like to do anything thats worth while that will allow me many many years of use from my new investment. I hope it 20 years Im still using it.